Im just after the same information as looking at buying a machined turnblock and need to know rough length.Quote:
Originally Posted by thegingerwhinger
http://www.mcgillmotorsports.co.uk/i...ploads/tl3.jpg
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Im just after the same information as looking at buying a machined turnblock and need to know rough length.Quote:
Originally Posted by thegingerwhinger
http://www.mcgillmotorsports.co.uk/i...ploads/tl3.jpg
190mm i think mate
sorted all mine a while back. amazes me how gears were origionally located haha, top job on this thread(Y)
yes thats correct :thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by thegingerwhinger
Hi peeps,
im peed off with my sloppy gearchange so purchased a quickshift off ebay, now its fitted but fouling the starter motor (not original)!!!! but decided to have a go at this myself too as it sounds like a transformation. Will let u know how it goes
mark:thumb:
hope the pics work:
http://s1110.photobucket.com/albums/...t=IMG_0214.jpg
http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1299960065
A few errors made during the process but I have to say I fitted it this afternoon and the difference is massive, I advise everyone to do this! The gears feel so direct and positive, not yet test driven due to needing a starter motor :mad:
how come my linkage is different from everyone elses lol
mines only has one hole at the bit where the rod is connected and everyone has 2
its not a nova linkage i dont think?? the bit that connects to the turret looks different, corsa?
ah yeah thats what it will be, mines is a kinda mismatch as my car was originaly a 1.0 4 speed so had to swap bits of the linkage about
cheers :)
Here's my attempt.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...e/IMG_0348.jpg
Opted for male rose joints and used a piece of stainless bar I had lying around. Plonked it in my thread and with left and right handed a M10 tap and a couple off flats milled on so its not adjustable in situ, I've since changed the bolts for slightly longer ones. Also replaced the bushes with nylon ones that i machined up. let me know if anyone requires any.
how much for the nylon bush?
this is a linkage i made for a member on here
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/e...7/a76bb45a.jpg
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/e...7/3497d8f5.jpg
when you make the linkage remember to cut any excess thread off from the rosejoint as this part hits the gearbox meaning you wont be able to select 2nd or 4th and the linkage wont rotate enough
use a shallow nut on it aswell as you really dont want much sticking out
this is the part i mean
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/e...87/linkage.jpg
hope you dont mind me using your pic dayle
this is to show where the bolt hits the gearbox
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/e...7/linkage2.jpg
i will say wedge lol is true to his word very good and quick at replying posting etc. thanks for my linkage.
cheers ross :thumb:
cheers mate glad your happy with it :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Grey
Having a few issues with my Linkage, Has anyone any idea on what to adjust as i can either get reverse 1-2-3-4 or 1-2-3-4-5 and no reverse. Has anyone had this issue before?
how have you set the linkage? with the drill bit in the hole?
was it originaly a 4 speed? if it was you need to cut the small white lug off where the gearstick is on the right hand side of it
5 speed dude with a C16XE whats the drill bit thing?
on the selector turret at the back there should a be a small black lug that you can pull out to reveal a hole
get under the car and loosen the selector rod clamp but dont pull the rod out
get back up top and rotate the linkage clockwise as your looking into the bay, while you rotate it put a 5 mm drill bit in the hole which was where the small lug was
it should go in slightly further as you rotate the linkage
once it goes in further leave it in there and get a friend to hold the gearstick between 1st and second (over to the left not in the middle of all the gears)
while he holds the gearstick get back under and tighten the clamp
remove the drill bit, now you should have all gears
another one made for a member on here
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/e...7/3cc260d2.jpg
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/e...7/360f61c5.jpg
corsa linkage made for a mate
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/e...7/a661407d.jpg
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/e...7/99520f42.jpg
any chance you could pm me how much you'd charge for one pls?
Pm'd
:thumb:
:eek:ok need help . ive got my L plates on this job.
i think it would help if you know what parts you need
and how many of each stage
cause i stil dont know ... im stupid i know but im a honest foul
Think im going to do this while my engines out this week. Do you lot buy your own quickshift arm or buy one like this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-N...item20c7813ffc
Would anyone mind explaining what the difference is? Im guessing on the quickshift theres less distance between the male rose joints? if thats the case, would anyone mind giving me the measurements as id rather have a go at making my own first before forking out £40,
cheers :)
from what i recollect you take 10MM out of the gearstick side and put it in the gearbox side
Quick shift can be achived by just drilling new holes in your existing linkage, so no need to buy a special one:
Drilling this hole makes the backwards and forwards motion quicker (less distance)
http://loggyboy.com/images/MeritMk2/...ForwardAdj.jpg
And not really necessary, but can be handy, drilling these holes allows for less left to right movement:
http://loggyboy.com/images/MeritMk2/...nkageLRadj.jpg
Using positions 1 & 4 is standard levels of movement.
Using positions 2 & 5 reduces the distance of the gear stick needs to travel the least change over standard.
Using positions 2 & 4 reduces the distance of the gear stick needs to travel a bit more.
Using positions 3 & 5 reduces the distance of the gear stick needs to travel even more so.
Using positions 3 & 4 reduces the distance of the gear stick needs to travel the most change over standard.
Using positions 1 & 5 increases the distance.
You may find that using the reduced positions means some gears are harder to engage or distinguish between, this especially so when using a
Cavalier Gearstick and shaft, if so, the best solution is to retain the standard position (i.e. holes 1 & 4), but this is all trial and error and all to
your personal preference.
Right heres my attempt lol i bought these rose joints a couple of years ago now lol but they sat in a bag in my garage but as im tryin got get my 1/4mile times down thought i would have a go!
So im using M10 threaded bar and M10 female rosejoint, then i have M12 male that i will be doing the same as loggy boys with the one up and one down and im going to weld x2 M12 bolts (with the head cut off) and i will be doing the shortshift mod but do i have to shorten the threaded bar or does it stay the same?
Quick pic still got to drill M12 holes tommorow!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...67622035_n.jpg
finished mine and fitted it feels loads better alittle stiff if anything
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.n...94509175_n.jpg
http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/...pse965af77.jpg my gear linkage all done with help from (you guys) :thumb: just had to cut the excess off the end of the bolts and fitted it today and it feels so much tighter, deffinetley a MUST just want to say a big HOLLA to all you guys...:d
Yeah i know i turned it around afterwards that was my first attempt but after i turned it around and cut the ends off the bolts it was sweet...
I've noticed some folk have put the male ends of the m10 rose joint into the clamp end and gearbox connection end. Fail as I made the mistake. Ensure the male ends bolt up to the s linkage. Will upload my pics.
thats how i done mine m8 female bar and m10 male rose joints to S linkage.... deffo think every 1 should have it rose jointed it does make a hell of a difference...?
does anyone make these and sell them complete :)
mine only cost me about £29 in parts to make myself.... as long as you have the old existing linkage
good stuff :) i will get the list and crack on :)