J710BYD 1.6 T40 Build

Started removing underseal, rust hunting again. Found a few spots so it was worth doing, but fook me it's hard work! and i've only done one corner :( lol Didn't finish all of it so sprayed zinc primer over it till next time.

http://img360.imageshack.us/img360/9132/dsc00813sv8.jpg
Don't worry theres a new front panel going on

http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/5137/dsc00814vy7.jpg

As I'm still unemployed after finishing uni I asked my nice bank manager for some more money today so I can now finish the engine :D
Few questions though:
Are there and is it worth fitting uprated head bolts?
If I have a Kent AST2, is it better to used new GM rockers, etc or Kent ones?

Std headbolts are fine.
Standard rockers are fine.

What are you using to strip the underseal? I found a wire wheel on a grinder works well.

The GM Units are actually stronger than the ones with the Kent Kits..

But if you've got em, put them in. You're unlikely to beable to tell the difference.

Cheers, I haven't got either yet. Might pop down Vauxhall tomorrow morning and order them up. Been using a drill and wire brush, think I will be buying a wire wheel for the grinder soon tho :)

My welder guy just has to get this next week out the way and it should be all go.
I need (want) a new rear quater upto the window, I've been waiting out for a GM one for ages but haven't seen one yet,
how good are the fit of the Beever ones?
Should really order the cage.... :roll:

Well... i'm angry. Just picked up the parts I order from Vauxhall. I ordered the rockers, lifters and thrust pads as well as a new back cam cover and head bolts. Came to ?86.02 with my discount. The cam cover doesn't fit - it's the square top and theres only one thrust pad, one lifter and one rocker! The head bolts didn't come with the washers either dispite me giving them the correct part numbers and the EPC saying how many of each where needed. If I add that up its ?217.52 for just the rockers, lifters and thrust pads. I could buy a whole short engine from Vauxhall for ?600, sell the brand new head, cam, bottom end and get the parts I need free :mad: :wall: To add Kent and piper sell "uprated" ones for much less. A cam kit cost ?300 and includes those parts and a cam. GGRRRR

/rant

That sucks. I cant imagine Vauxhall are that expensive for the lifters & followers are they?

I've lost patience with our parts guy @ Rowcliffes ages ago. So unhelpfull. I'm usually really short with him when I go in. I usually act surprised when he gets a good price.

btw a ?600 short engine is only the bottom end if the definition of 'short' engine is to be beleived.

I know the guy you mean, right grumpy ****, few of them are OK tho, this was a new guy who order it tho.

I thought short meant just the engine, no ancilleries, etc. Well Charlie, the older, sound guy said the whole engine was ?600 maybe crated.

Just to add:

Rear cam belt cover - ?22.55
Lifter - 13.65 each
Thrust pad - 2.07 each
Rocker - 14.80 each

On a side note to people in the south, my runaround pug is going to die at the end of the month so i'm on the looout for a nova saloon, cheap and standard. PM me if you find one

My turbo Diesel hatch is for sale, needs MOT though.

Fcuk me, ?14 each for a rocker, screw that.

Buy a cam kit off ebay, they usually come with lifters,rockers and pads.

Why doesn't the cam cover fit? Early 1600 engines had a round cover, but i dont see why the fitment is different?

well its only the rear part and all the front parts I have are for a round one, not square, plus its all one piece where as the old one had a seprate piece round the water pump.

Good plan on the cam btw :thumb:

see for scraping underseal off

if u put the area ur taking off near a heater......or indeeed on a sunny day..........get urself a 1 inch or 2 inch wood chisel................and start scraping


that'll take the most of it off easy enough



then possibly use a wire wheel on yer grinder for the last we tidy up..........but ive done 1 arch on mine without to much hassle


its theraputic even ha ha

I just tried out the wheel on the grinder cleared as much paint in 30 secs as it did take me 30 mins to do before. Cheers for the input. but theraputic, it is not :wtf: lol

Wire wheel brush is way to go.

Time for an update then....

I scrapped the pug 305 runabout

http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/7283/dsc00840oj8.jpg

and gained a F*** Fiesta runabout - it's mint tho, 28k, one lady owner, ffsh, ideal.

http://img250.imageshack.us/img250/8884/dsc00858dd6.jpg
(ignore my dad and his mate)

Then on to the nova, I've prepped the engine bay ready for stitch welding and plating. Also I have been removing more underseal, which is fooking boring but needs to be done. Also as the car now needs to go fast and I have removed the install, I started removing the sound deading, the standard stuff came up a treat! Plus under the passanager side there was a ?1 coin!

http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/4676/dsc00873cc5.jpg

It from 1983 and must of been in there since it was made in Spain, there was noway it could of fallen under there as the sound deading was stuck solid all round it. Only how did a british coin get under there when it was in Spain...?

Once the standard stuff was removed I set about removing ?120 worth of Dynamat, what a bi*ch of a job that is! The stickyess stuff know to man, my mate who was helping actually pulled skin off his finger before it came unstuck.

This is how it looks now:
http://img105.imageshack.us/img105/7589/dsc00876un6.jpg

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/7469/dsc00877sz7.jpg

http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/5093/dsc00878cy4.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/4...2007015qu8.jpg

http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/7...2007016xm8.jpg
One of many piles of sound deading, I'll weight it all afterward and make myself feel better lol

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/6...2007045dt4.jpg


Part 2 coming soon...

Then I got bored a moved on to investigating the drivers side rear arch which has bugged me since I removed the rub strip as it had a ripple through it. Also when I removed the rear beam the bolt fouled on the body work, so something dodgy has happened at some point. This is what I found:

http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/8...2007012wj3.jpg

http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/4...2007013yp9.jpg

http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/1...2007014gy3.jpg

It appears a new sill has been fitted at some point, but over the top of the old one, looks a right mess - so new full quater will be ordered as soon as I get a job :roll:

Whilst I was down there with the grinder I thought I'd have a look at the inner arch/chassis leg....

http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/1...2007010ab8.jpg

http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/8...2007011eu5.jpg

Oh dear, hopefully an easy repair tho, need to speak to my welder bloke, he's not too happy with how much I want done at the mo (front and rear panels, stitch welded, plated, boot floor repairs, flushing slam panel, rear wiper and plating over the gear stick hole)

Finally I've had a go at making one of these rose jointed gear linkages, as per Dar's guide :thumb:, just need to borrow a pillar dill and tap and thats another job done.
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/2...2007024bu9.jpg

PS: sorry for the quality of pics, new nokia N95 with the 'best phone camera yet!' - load bollox IMO

Woohoo removing the sound deadening is an amazingly annoying job lol Worth it in the end though. That small hole in the rear arch should be an easy fix, mine were way bigger than that.

Yea, hope so. They look to of been repaired before as well which I wasn't to happy about, I've your going to do a job, do it right! (Unless it's sound deading, then don't press it to hard so you can remove it easier lol)

After taking away more and more underseal in the rear drivers arch, I reliesed the wheel house isn't really attached to the chassis leg that well any more...

http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/2...2007039oj1.jpg


http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/4...2007041hi1.jpg

and the spring seat is not looking to happy:
http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/1...2007044ye3.jpg

So I've decided to replace this panel, and whilst I had the grinder in my hand I thought i'd look at the 'bodged' panel, which turned out to be a huge scrape:
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/9...2007037zk9.jpg

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/9...2007038om4.jpg

I found these new discoveries quite upsetting as I can't afford to buy the panels atm, so out came the spray cans!

Take one dirty fuel tank, and drain the petrol.
http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/6...2007021sz3.jpg

Next take an angle grider with wire wheel attachment to the metal, and finish cleaning with white spirit.
http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/3...2007047fc2.jpg

Finally add a few coats of silver hammerite and leave to dry for a few hours:
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/3...2007049mo8.jpg

Whilst waiting for the paint to dry, apply the same or simaler method to other parts:
http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/1...2007053cz0.jpg

Now I feel better

Sorry for sounding like a cook book - think the paint fumes have gone to my head

I suppose I ought to clean up my fuel tank before fitting it!

Incidentally, whats the N95 like? I fancy getting me one.

umm, N95 - confusing I think is the word! took me two days to work out the buttons and im meant to be good at these things lol Didn't help having Sony Ericssons for the pass 5 years tho. Only problems i've had so far; Theres no timer, no light, there's two menus/menu buttons, and it's a bit slow... Everything else is great tho, the camera (or though I thought it was crap) is wicked, videos are perfect as is the sound (rec, phone, mp3), oh the head phones have been designed to fit a moose tho. The screen facing camera isn't great, but unless you video call lots i doubt you'll use it. Battery life is fair, or though being a new phone I haven't stopped playing yet, which eats the battery. Comes with a 1Gb mini SD card (smaller than my thumbnail!) Last thing, you have to look after it, it's not the strongest design.

My dad pointed out the only person that would see my fuel tank would be the person I run over, in which case they probably wont be bothered, but it was a bit rusty and I know its their when im driving around... all in the detail, all these small things add up :thumb:

good build...very very simlar to mine lol...but mine doesnt need as much welding

Nice! Keep going mate.

I see you went for the rose jointed TCA's, top mod!

Yea, the weldings a shame, but it will be re-done in GM panels so should be worth it. You got a link to your project novaco?

Cheers CG, R/J TCA's are probably the first thing i bought when the car came off the road, it was eating tyres as the camber was about 7mm out, thought this mite sort that out and tighten things up a little in the process. I remembered you recommended them when you picked up the head.

lol - just noticed the collect of magic trees hanging on till the bitter end! (drivers mirror adjustor)

Haven't done much recently due to a new job and not knowing what's happening with the project... There will be at least 2 BIG updates soon tho :D

Finally bought a Kent AST2 cam and got a few bits chucked in as well

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/3...2007085lp7.jpg

And picked up a 19mm rear anti roll bar which was sprayed silver(note the sunshine :O)

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/2...2007087xi7.jpg

just been cleaning up few other bits like tie bars and shizz.
Going to start rebuilding the rear beam soon, but want to fit a stud conversion. I've seen this on ebay but wonder if there was any better out there. The nuts look a bit naff (and weighty) to me

Mmm not sure on them myself mate, quality bolts & fasteners are usually darker than the bright finish seen there.

5 stud is cool though esp with a small block installation....

my thoughts exactly - call me a tart but I want lightweight bolts as well, seen some dead shexy 'spoon' red ones :)

eh, I didn't relieze i was going 5 stud lol I entertained the idea for a bit tho, couldn't get my head round the shafts and CV's. Plus it's changing wheels, etc and I got widened SRi steelie on the cards (4 stud)
My next nova (oh dear) will probably run 5 stud with Vectra SRi twin 5 spoke wheels, I recon that would look damn cool on a big power nov'

It would look damn cool, finish this 1 first though.....

I think you can get 4 stud twin spoke Vectra wheels if you wanted to fit them on your current nova, seen a couple of novas with them and they do look very nice indeed

Compomotive do a selection of annodise aluminium wheel bolts for use with dowled hubs ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SKoob

I think you can get 4 stud twin spoke Vectra wheels if you wanted to fit them on your current nova, seen a couple of novas with them and they do look very nice indeed

---

But there rare as fook :thumb:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Last Of The Nova SR'S

But there rare as fook :thumb:

---

Aye lol There was a Nova GSi outside a garage just rotting near me with a set on, asked about it got given a card but never bothered to ring. Probs a good thing as wouldn't of had room for another nova lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SKoob

I think you can get 4 stud twin spoke Vectra wheels if you wanted to fit them on your current nova, seen a couple of novas with them and they do look very nice indeed

---

I know, I've seen one, and only one, at billing this year. Thought I'd do it properly tho, hubs, brakes and wheels. I think the 4 stud ones look a bit strange for some reason tho.

Any pics of said novas? The wheels are quite similar to my OZ's just bigger and 5 twin spokes not 6.

Cheers Mike, I'll have a google:thumb:

Ouch! ?75 or though working it out cheaper than the Spoon ones

EDIT: mmmmm, carbon

someone on here had a red nova with those wheels in black, think it was novaash or something, got rear ended iirc, the other was a White GSi outside a little garage in Castle Combe, saw it when i was driving my SR back from a rolling road session, i broke my hazard switch putting my hazards on when i stopped lol

Hmmm depends on the pitch of the thread on those Spoon items compared to UK thread sizes.

looking gd mate keep up the gd work

Aye 4 studders are rare, look proper nice though if anyone did track down a set.

Ash re PM (inbox full)

That Mocca brown car I saw for sale is now sold. The local college bought it for the automotive dept.

So its destiny is in ruins.

^ Noooo :-(

I was planning to have TonySR's blue shell from him, but for my own reasons i've had to let him down, which I wasn't happy about and didn't take lightly, but it was for the best... I think. As has been said to me, there's alot to be said for knowing your shell, so I'm keeping mine and have just ordered a few more GM panels to complete it. Still looking for a cage tho.

In other news;

My billy head is at John Perrett's having it checked over, ultra light skim, valve stem seals, but now before I cleaned it up. Check out the size of my valves! (ignore the blue crap, it's the old paint + nitromortes)
http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/2...2007227rk3.jpg

http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/9...2007231ww6.jpg


http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/6...2007230pw6.jpg

My carbs are stripped down and painted black, look ace :-D

http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/9...2007177hi3.jpg

mmm, arty

http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/7...2007213kt7.jpg


http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/5...2007214nj8.jpg

and I just won a Lotus elise 111R 'Stack' Dash :D Should be intresting to wire up and get working right lol Shame I'll have to make a custom dash now :roll:
http://i19.ebayimg.com/01/i/000/c6/67/1fcf_1.JPG

Till next time

EDIT: Those photo's look crap! Ghay camera phone

That dash looks like it could be made to look pretty trick in a custom mk2 binnacle top. Fibreglassed maybe.

Not interested in Dans shell? Or Chris Tunnicliffe's?