Head studs? You planning on taking the head off lots? lol
Good work tho.
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Head studs? You planning on taking the head off lots? lol
Good work tho.
cheers benn, and i dunno what you mean about the head studs :dQuote:
Originally Posted by Benn
seen a RWD XE'd 205gti at the mull rally.
Head studs are for people that remove the head every week as the bolts don't stretch as much so they can be reused. Where you'll be bolting it on and leave it alone for a good long time...Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw156
lol, yeh i edited my original post to say exhaust studs
ok done some more work on the engine today after work.
had to do some more modding to the valve tool as it was just to small still. so it will fit now.
and had a bit of time, so cleaned up the oil pump. and stripped it to check the tollerances. now im not sure what the gaps are meant to be, but i used a feeler guage and i could fit a 0.20 in these gaps
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3.../welding11.jpg
and there is some "worn" marks on the casing and the gears, will these be alright to reuse?
get a new one mate :thumb:
Better to replace it now than 100miles down the road
see i think we had this discussion earlier in the thread. and people say buy a new one, but not a aftermarket one as they are crap. GM ones are about 200 quid,Quote:
Originally Posted by Gsi_Jimbo
then other people say refurb the one you have, and the internals cost about 150ish, from SBD, not sure from GM.
so im just checking mine, see what its like :)
must have missed that bit in here lol
Well it all looks ok in there give it a good clean out and chuck it back on then
Yes there will be wear marks in it. Did the engine have oil pressure in it before? If it did reuse it.
the engine was stripped when i got it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
I'd refit it, when you go to first start it, wind it over with the fuel pump relay out and watch the pressure go on as a just in case.
Oil pumps arnt cheap.
ok nice one benn, thanks :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
Remember it all touches in there, so wear marks on the faces of them will be normal.
ok cool, the wear marks were not major, the scoring barely made a complete circle.
ok so did some more work today, nicked my dads battery drill ( it had some charge) and done my honing. i didnt hold the trigger on full tho as it seemed to fast. and used plenty of oil. i think it came out pretty well.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...6/DSC_2576.jpg
and also i bought some more pistons and rods, so i took them apart today for a clean. should i replace the little circlips as a few seamed bent. and also what should i sue to clean up the pistons as the crap is caked on well.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...6/DSC_2582.jpg
also cleaned up the backing plate with some WD40 just to degrease it, and i won a rocker cover of ebay, so that will keep most of the crap out of the head once its done.
i know its dutch.. .but "tandflankspeling" is quickly translated: 'toothsideplay' so me thinks thats the play you have between the 2 toothed wheels.
oliedruk - oil pressure (warm engine on iddle)
and the 'uitsteken' piece is how far the toothed wheels should stick out of the housing.
** quick and dirty translation**
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...2/oliedruk.jpg
i always use an old scotch pad for cleaning up stubborn engine parts.
What's the engine going in?
Looks good so far.
cheers mayhem, and so from my deciphering my pump is on the limit, as mine measured 0.2 so...Quote:
Originally Posted by mayhem
cheers John H i will give it a go with some WD40 or hot water,
and Edd, im not sure yet something RWD for sure lol, im thinking a Dolomite, maybe a early cav, but a bit heavy. possibly a opel kadette:thumb:
You have access to a jizer/parts bath? give them a good soak and good going over with the scotch. Should see them fine.
Liking the idea of rwd, dolly would be cool!
nah i dont have access John, but i will give them a good clean, and there is a tool on frost which gets in the grooves to clean them :)
so new rings and they will be good lol
Can you get access to trike? (trichloroethylene) A good soak and a quick scrub in that would do it, but don't touch it or breathe the fumes lol. Failing that you can soak them in a normal degreaser or coca cola overnight to give you a headstart before you start scrubbing.Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw156
ok done some more work today, lapped in my last two valves.
and gave the head a really good clean to get rid of any hiding grinding paste.
and then i assembled 10 of the valves. all the outlet and 2 inlet.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...6/DSC_2588.jpg
have ran out of money now for a few weeks. so when payday comes, i have a shopping list lol
new piston rings.
probably new piston circlips
piston cleaning tool, to get in the grooves.
lifters, and some oil
think thats about it. then time to start putting it back together,
I thought I had a race on my hands when I read the thread title! I'm building a rwd XE on r1 carbs using megajolt...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../13-09-098.jpg
Regarding a trigger wheel speak to Chris Astley. I'm sure he told me that he can get a bottom pulley made up with it incorporated. All you then need to do is make a bracket for the sensor.
When you say about a piston cleaning tool to get in the grooves - do you mean the ring grooves? If you've got the old rings just break them in half and use the non-snapped end and run in the grooves to clean all the carbon out.
a good way of cleaning up were the piston rings go is to snap a ring in half and scrape the crap out with it :thumb:
ha ha beat you to it! lol
:cry::cry: great minds think alike lol
lol, the only problem is, i dont have any old rings!!!
and SIMPS, i will have to come up sometime when your closer to finished and have a looky at your set up. what box you using?
T9? and if so what bell housing, 7 degrees or not?
p.s mines not going in a nova :)
I'm using a porsche 924 gearbox just to be different. I'm not going to run a tilt, no need to as there's plenty of room in a nova.
to clean up my pistons i used a wire wheel bit on a bench grinder and a snapped piston ring...
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w.../Photo0164.jpg
was this alright, i would of thought the wire wheel would of scored the metal???Quote:
Originally Posted by Martingsi
Why have you popped the surface aswell?
Theyre case hardened arent they?
So your now down to soft metal?
Why not just use a pen to write 1234??
last time i done that i never marked anthing as i just remembered where they go lolQuote:
Originally Posted by MattBrown
what what what whatQuote:
Originally Posted by MattBrown
i meant scored as in the wire wheel would of "damaged" the pistons.
he means the pic above the pistons have been punched to number them.
OOO yeh, damn, thats not good surly.
Brains, using his brains:thumb: lolQuote:
Originally Posted by brainsnova
But popping marks in case hardened metal is never a good idea!
Nice Thread
Go for a triumph dolmite :thumb:
my mate had a sleeper totally standard on the outside and if you could spot the gearstick had been moved thats about all but it had a redtop and flew lolQuote:
Originally Posted by hybridturbo