angle tightening is more accurate than using a torque wrench.
although i have used just a torque wrench until i though it was tight enuf without any problems.
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angle tightening is more accurate than using a torque wrench.
although i have used just a torque wrench until i though it was tight enuf without any problems.
FFS!
Have ago like this:
1. LIGHTLY lube the head bolt threads with a SMALL amount of copper grease/oil.
2. If they are not already oiled/greased put some copper grease/oil round the underside of the head bolt heads and both sides of their washers.
3. Make sure that no piston is at TDC to avoid the chance of any of the valves fouling the piston crowns.
4. Thoroughly clean the bores making sure that even the smallest bit of coking debris has been removed. Best to use compressed air to blow the shit off the piston rings. Lightly oil the bores if been re-bored and new rings.
5. Make sure you have it right way up and put the head gasket in place onto the block over the locating water ferules.
6. Carefully place the head in place getting it to go on as gently & square as poss. Make sure all rockers/followers etc are inplace and lube all wearing surfaces
7. Clean all liquid gasket mating faces on the head and cam carrier and de-grease thoroughly. Apply a thin even coat of Blue Hylomar ( or similar) to both surfaces.
8. Carefully locate cam carrier housing and get all the head bolts/ washers in and finger tight.
9. Now what you must realise is that before you start torqueing down you need to get the cam housing and head down flat onto each other and the block. To do this you will need to tighten down against pressure from some of the valve springs as the cam pushes down onto them.
10. Get a small ratchet and carefully and gently go round all the bolts in turn using the correct tightening sequence as shown in haynes ( circular outward spiral pattern from the centre bolts) nipping each one up half a turn at a time. Keep going round and round until you can see that that cam housing is down flat onto the head. You will need very LITTLE pressure to do this and you'll find that some bolts go loose as you tighten others. The main thing is to take your time and gradually get it all located correctly before torqueing up. Its worth checking that the cam housing is in its old position relative to the head cos if it aint then you may find that the cam belt will run to one side or the other on the cam pulley cos it aint lined up square.
11. Get your torque wrench ( shud be a small one ) . Set it to 25 Newton metres or 18 foot pounds. This is feck all really.
12. Go round the bolts carefully as before gradually taking them down 1/4 turn at a time until the wrench starts to click on each bolt which tells you its reach the set torque. Finally carefully go round 1 last time making sure that it clicks on all to double check. DONT EVER PUSH PAST THE CLICK!!!!!
13. Final torqueing. Get yourself a long (2 foot) breaker bar for this cos it will require less effort to use and make it easier for you to turn accurately the required amount ( a tube on a std T bar will suffice) Haynes tells you to get or make a protractor. TBH I find its a bit of a balls ache way of doing it so I always use the new style VAUX head bolts which always have a lip showing around the base of their heads even with the special socket in place. I just mark the lip and then i can see clearly how much I'm turning them. The final tightening involves turning the bolts thru a total of 180 degrees in 3* 60 degree increments. 180 is basically half a turn of the bolt so i just divide into 3 and gauge it by eye which is just as good and much easier. You can easily see that they are all down evenly when done.
14. I might get slated for this next comment but i actually turn each little more to finish off with so that in effect they have been torqued down by 190 degrees in total at the end. I think on balance its better to be a little tighter than not quite tight enough but i could be wrong.
Hope this helps - just take yur time and do it gradually
yer third time lucky as they say
engine is in the car
just having some ball ache problems cos the 1400 and 1600 have different layouts for the water pipe work
the 1400 has the oil seperator on the back where the water pipes should run
managed to sor most of it now
just got a few little bits to do then i need to refit wiring loom and alternator etc and attempt to start the fucker
Well done!!
adding to CP's post ..
if during the final tightening you feel it starting to go loose then thats the bolt stretching. theres no point tightening it any further imo otherwise you can risk snappage.
how can this be out of alignment ?? as im sure the cam carrier uses locating dowels just like the head to block face doesQuote:
Its worth checking that the cam housing is in its old position relative to the head cos if it aint then you may find that the cam belt will run to one side or the other on the cam pulley cos it aint lined up square.