Not If your completely focussed on the road.
You need to take your eyes away and refocus on the needle/dial whereas the lights in your peripheral vision negate the need to look elsewhere.
Trust me it works
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Not If your completely focussed on the road.
You need to take your eyes away and refocus on the needle/dial whereas the lights in your peripheral vision negate the need to look elsewhere.
Trust me it works
Not doubting it working/works, just to me seems pointless. Sound and feel, and counter for assistance.
Helps to get it a tad more accurate, but then again your shift point changes in every gear and it takes an accelerometer to judge where that should be really (the ar$e dyno is not so accurate) I wouldn't use one myself but I see the point of it.
i like the shift lights, just not the adhiesive tape holding them down..
Agreed peest. On the list to change ;)
My shift point is always the same now I have the shift lights ;)
A couple of hundred revs before the limiter.
I'd love to say it's at the point power drops off but it's making power all the way to the redline and power is only Limited by revs. If it revved higher it'd produce more!
Sound/feel isn't always easy with a helmet on, windows up etc.
Concentration levels can get the better of you.
Fair point, your shift point most likely is the same in every gear then.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoo
Also, common misconception that shift point should be the point where power starts to drop, peak power should be smack bang in the centre of your rev range, not at the top.
Why would you rev much higher than the peak Power? If it drops off quite quickly then it's time to change.
You want the highest average power across your gear, from start to finish, going 'up the hill' to the peak and then starting at the bottom doesn't achieve that, starting halfway up the hill and going right over to the halfway on the other side does.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoo
I see your point but it's not really relevant to me, as I said, linear power with no drop off.