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Fair enough :)
The other thing I wanted to mention would be when I saw the images of the front strut tops chopped I thought great someone's gonna raise the mounting points on the front to allow lower stance with more travel…
Only to find it was to have the reverse effect; making them lower! WHY you would ever want to do this puzzles me.
They weren't lowered, just moved in and back to give more castor and neg camber.
All fair points I feel - I'm the first to accept that what I've done might not work out too well but it doesn't cost a lot to try and being as its on track it wont matter too much and everyone else will enjoy watching one of those ****ty novas falling apart as they burn past in their caterfieldslol
In my defence I would say that what I have done is many times stronger than fairly std suspension set-ups that i've witnessed with high hp XE's and LET's in them. I've still not got anything with much torque engine wise and neither is it heavy
The trouble with making my nova run too low is that with the slicks on they rub worse cos they dont have a rounded profile at the edges like most road tyres.
The engine isn't all that heavy - ie 1 person can pick it up so no worries resting on that exhaust - its not a big block you know :p lol
Big Blocks are for poofs! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by CP
Mmm you'd be amazed at what some people run on big blocks like turned down flanges for standard bearings…
A handful of XE's can be lifted like a lighter small block even so I'ud never rest the full weight through the manifold given the choice.
You could have gone eccentric nuts on the strut bottoms for more neg than you'd ever want ~ to the point where take the rest far enough and you wouldn't want so much, on balance…
Is a shame they can't made slicks just the same as road tyres dimensionally; don't they understand what nova racers need!
In theory, but once again thwarted. The tyres rub on the coilovers as it is, so we have to use spacers. We have exhausted the camber options, tried them all hence the drastic mods.Quote:
Originally Posted by BRoadGhost
I'm gonna be getting back onto trying to finish this over christmas.
There are number of key things that I need to sort:
1. Try to get the engine started and checked over. Now that I have sorted out the gearbox there is no reason why I cant try and start it (err I think:confused: lol )
2. Front wheel hubs/bearings. These have started wearing & causing problems with pad knock back . Not sure quite what to do - it would be nice to fit larger bearings but since the transmission is F13 throughout I dont really want to start changing the shafts unless I have to, which means sticking to the std hubs so I'm a bit stuck.:confused:
3. Sort out some cooling for the front brakes. The whole lot gets so hot that the wheel bolts stretch:eek: - I know I'm riding for a fall if I don't try and sort this
4. Fit the new heated windscreen.
5. Modify the gear linkage to fit the new dog box gear selector shaft
6. Get it corner weighed and try and get some meaningful measurements of the various settings.
7. Check the dB output from a driveby test
May I suggest some holes in the bumper (I take it you're not running a bumper iron) and some ducting fed around to the inside of the wheel?Quote:
Originally Posted by CP
My mate has an M3 (E36 M3's have brake cooling ducts as standard)and he dislodged one at a trackday, and then completely cooked the brakes on that side. I'd never thought ducting would be that effective until that happened!
Another idea is to try running slabs as an experiment. Although they're heavy they will absorb a hell of a lot of heat compard to how quickly an MO would be able to get rid of it. Dans never cooked its brakes and I rekon the slabs were a big factor in that.
In all fairness Dan's wasn't running six pots that will allow you to do front flips! The brakes are awesome and allow you to stop like a Caterfield, but they do get bloody hot. We have one of them fangly IR temp sensor things and will actually write down the figures next time.
It's possible to run the front as low as you'ud ever want it on coilovers without the need for offset screwing spacers OR extensive work if you think about it.Quote:
In theory, but once again thwarted. The tyres rub on the coilovers as it is, so we have to use spacers. We have exhausted the camber options, tried them all hence the drastic mods.
[now's the time to insult rather than question btw]