Around £150-200 mark new from SBD.
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Around £150-200 mark new from SBD.
Picked up some more box section tonight so all being well tomorrow the rest of the floor and most of the bulkhead is coming out :D
dont forget ya camera ;)
Dam right..more pics needed! :thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by burgo
Haven't you finished this yet? lol
Nearly! lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Count Vaux Alot
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sloth
but does it work? let pistons in a 20seh fits, but the guy fried them 4 times in 1 season (20seh, eaton m64, 200-210 hp), and he's not some shed builder, he knows what he's doing.
less nattering and more work is the way a car usually gets built ;)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../16-01-102.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../16-01-103.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../16-01-104.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../16-01-105.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../16-01-106.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...t/16-01-10.jpg
F**k.
Adding in, thought you'd just remove the tunnel...
you funking legend!!! cutting cars up is great fun
The 2 bars I added a propper wedged in and tacked. Do you think I can remove the cross bracing?
remind me to never let you near my car with a grinder lol
good work
whats the next plan of action seems as you dont have much of a car left lol
your a nutter lol. great work though
how many discs.
and are you going to put a spaceframe floor in. you have gone this far, would be a shame not to imo.
and why did you cut all above the tunnel out?
Needs cutting out to fit the engine in longitudinal engine layoutQuote:
Originally Posted by bmw156
Awesome work dude....
OOO i see, the engine being mounted further back then.
i like.
Well you'll have the gear box and bell housing connecting to the torque tube going to the rear axle, and it wont be a small job putting that lot the wrong way down a nova! lolQuote:
Originally Posted by bmw156
Cheers for the comments.
Engine sits quite far back. Should sit pretty much halfway between the turrets (if they were still there).
Reason for just cutting the hole floor is I decided it would just be so much neater & easier. The nova tunnel isn't straight where it meets the floor. Now I can just get some sheet rolled and make a nice looking tunnel. I can then get some sheet and press in ribs for the footwells. The bulkhead will be much further back too. Basically right were the feet of the cage will be. That way I won't need to fabricate a bell mouth. I may also mount the seat even further back now that I have no restrictions.
Quote:
Originally Posted by djbrowney
I love using the grinder! lol
Gonna put engine, tube & box into place to get an idea of things. After that it will be to get the plates lazer for the bellhousing to tube.
some pics of my bosses semi space framed fiat x1/9
floor, just FYI
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...s/100_0527.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...s/100_0530.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...s/100_0531.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...s/100_0545.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...s/100_0547.jpg
It will be something similar but won't need to be as heavy & industrial. My shifter bolts to the torque tube. I'll probably just be running a piece of angle the length of the car.
Looking good (if thats the word lol) i'm looking forward to see the beginning of the frame work keep it up.
So you'll be sitting much father back then (going on where you'll have the fire wall)
Extended column and reloacted gear lever/pedal box FTUW.
This is gonna be some car. :)
lol :pQuote:
Originally Posted by L14MNP
Harsh! lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Count Vaux Alot
I have the longest WIP in history so would never say anything. lol
I'm sure you can see the irony in me saying that.......
Mine was started a year ago its had change of course but nothing overly radical or confusing - its now a 16xe turbo hope that answers your previous question.
The linkage is very easy to relocate. Its just a rod straight back to the box and the selector is just bolted into the torque tube so all I'd need to do is drill & tap the tube and shorten the rod.
I want to be positioned fairly central in the car but maybe just towards the back to counterweight against the engine.
Column extension should be easy enough and I'll run a floor mounted pedal box.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Count Vaux Alot
Me too mate. Benn holding off buying the the cage and piping purely because its a cost I can't recover. Trying to plan everything first and trial fit everything.
There is obviously huge doubt as to whether it will ever see tarmac again and that I've bitten off way more than I can chew but hey, we're all here to learn eh? If I can use as many off the shelf parts as possible at least I can recover some cost.
I certainly won't be rushing through the build tho.
Got an hour or so in this weekend. Nothing major done but confirmed my earlier guestimations on where things would sit.
So with engine approximately in place (its not completely central and bottome end needs shuffling over)...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...4-01-102-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../24-01-103.jpg
I couldn't move it anymore by myself due to limitations with the crane but its gives me a good idea for now. As I'd thought, the torque tube will end inline with the bottom middle of the screen and right were the cage feet shall be...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../24-01-104.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...4-01-105-1.jpg
This is what I was hoping for as I want to have the bulkhead across here and so I don't now need to create a bell mouth I can just have a straight tunnel. The only proviso being whether the seat and floor pedals all fit comfortably within the space. In this position the tube is just shy of 10" off the floor so it should be possible to run the exhaust underneath it and still be high enough for ground clearance.
The height the engine currently sits gives loadss of room at the back and once straight should be very close at the pulleys. The std sump is also a good 4" off the floor so thats good.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...4-01-107-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...4-01-108-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...24-01-10-1.jpg
With the current positions the driveshafts should be nicely inline...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...4-01-109-1.jpg
The only thing I need to look at more is driveshaft angle ie upwards. I've positioned the box 4" off the floor to at present the same as the sump.
Next reel move is to save for the cage and get the main structure of that in. I'm also still investigating the double wishbone setup & uprights I'm going to use. Nearly all kit car stuff is geared around ford 4x108 sierra stuff. I want to use as many off the shelf parts as possible especially wishbones & uprights so I'm doing some headscratching on getting it converted to 4x100 without having to run wheel adapters. The fronts I've got covered its just the rears.
Most use uprights similar design to this...
http://www.mnrltd.co.uk/std-rear-uprights.jpg
Which then has the sierra bearing carrier and hub bolted to it. At the moment I'm thinking of using a piece of tube with an insert to take a normal fwd hub & bearing. Depending on the size of the uprights the tube might be able to pass through the middle of the upright and be bolted/welded to it. I can then make caliper brackets off the tube.
Any thoughts here would be appreciated.
Those uprights look simple enough to make simps what not find a fab place and ask for a set to your spec with 4x100?
If i'm honest i would hunt some measurements and have a go myself!
it all looks to easy lol
Making them had crossed my mind but they are so cheap to buy. I need to speak to firm and find out how big that opening is, I'm guessing it won't be big enough but there's room there to open it out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Count Vaux Alot
The upright isn't the problem, its the hub assembly really.
It all goes together like so...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ect/scan23.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...t/image109.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...Photo-0022.jpg
I want to incorporate like what Phillip has used on his corsa which is all available off the shelf...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...t/IMGP1870.jpg
if your worried about running 4 x 100, then dont worry and run ford wheels.
you might think your being a tratior etc to vauxhall. but while researching my project, ford wheels are so much easier and cheaper to come across, then a set of 4 x 100 wheels
IMO go ford for wheels.
originally for the chevette i was going to run a english rear axle of a cortina, but the manta one came up cheap, and close, so im now running that. other wise i was going to convert the fronts to ford PDC and run ford wheels
It has crossed my mind but I also know its a problem I can overcome. I also love the ass off the speedline mistrals I've got to go on it.
I would do all in my power to get them speedlines on that car!
lol, if you are making your whole suspension/hub set up a pain, because of the wheels you already have, then your crazy lol.
I can see were both you and BMW are coming from - the ford stuff would be easier but if your prepared to go to the effort to fix vaux stuff then crack on. The tube incorp bearing idea looks simple enough to achieve.
Nice update, just confirms your crazy, but also cleaver (or is that lucky?) as that looks like it all lines up way too good, good luck with sorting the rear suspension mate, looks awesome.
Scott