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1) Not even bothered in the slightest about 60/40 seats, never even had to use that much boot space. My bro's Cav has 60/40 split and we've never used it (except for once).
2) Too much hassle just to fit it. Plus Id have to find interior etc. Really no point.
Like it the way it is and if you think about it carrying tools or heavy items in the boot, which I sometimes do, in an accident a one piece rear bench is safer than a split bench.
The top and bottom corners of the rear windows had a slight indent/mark and the pillar itself had a high/low spot. You really had to take a good look to spot it but the guys wanted it to be spot on.
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Ah ok cool, crack on then dude,
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:thumb:
Searching for some fabric to do the lining in. Where did you get your fabric from mate?
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UPDATE
Weather was still crap, but I took the rear bench to the garage to finish off what I started. Managed to empty half a new can of satin black, should give it enough protection.
https://images2.imgbox.com/af/18/ehkixSzW_o.jpg
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/7632/1000819a.jpg
Until next time...
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60/40's must weigh more anyhoo.
Good reading so far matey.
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Thanks Craig :thumb:
Could be heavier, never really thought of it like that. The one piece back is fairly heavy compared to the base. Oh well no biggie I just fold them down when going round corners lol
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LMAO at the fold it down, I remember someone saying they did that to lower the centre of gravity!! Also the solid rear bench acts like a strut brace lol
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Yeah a while back. lol @ strut brace
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UPDATE
Felt like ages since I last saw the Nova, I'm used to seeing it pretty much everyday. Couldn't go see it on Saturday, and being a Bank holiday weekend the lads were shut yesterday.
When I got there, one of the guys was flatting and mopping the Clio V6, it was looking very shi-nee
The Nova was being worked on, the other geeza had just finished applying seam sealer to the stitch welding and was applying and rubbing down stopper to the imperfect areas mainly concentrated on the B pillars.
By the way, there was absolutely no rust around any of the chassis legs/engine bay seams, yay!
Anyway, the pics
N/S chassis leg
https://images2.imgbox.com/13/d5/aF10Wh6Z_o.jpg
O/S chassis leg, alternator and bottom pulley areas cut out and box sectioned
https://images2.imgbox.com/d0/61/A2iKWBhT_o.jpg
Cross-member tie bar points were a bit rusty and crusty, one side had a hole which was covered by filler. The other side was better but he cut out the infected areas and plated them.
https://images2.imgbox.com/af/d2/EKjHprjV_o.jpg
Finally, he put a tiny plate where some rust came through from under the wing in the wheel well. Like I mentioned a few posts back, places where the factory under seal had peeled away from the body, there was ingress of water and the obvious occurred. It was only a few cm's long but lucky I came across it for the guy to be able to clean it and plate it.
https://images2.imgbox.com/86/d5/1tk99ATF_o.jpg
Just before I left, he got out the Harry Hockey plating kit together with the suspension turret plates and was lining them up, I gave the guy a hand in finding the correct positions and made sure they were gonna go on right. He was gonna do them next and finalise the bay welding right after the stopper was rubbed down. So tomorrow should see some more work.
Thank you, come again!
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did the bodyshop do the cutout for alternator clearance? doesnt look like its open at the top? alternator will still hit
