The front wings are the best of a bad bunch. You will note I haven't posted any photos of the passenger door..........Quote:
Originally Posted by mk1nova_rich
I'm going to have to have another go at that tomorrow.
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The front wings are the best of a bad bunch. You will note I haven't posted any photos of the passenger door..........Quote:
Originally Posted by mk1nova_rich
I'm going to have to have another go at that tomorrow.
The old bonnet pins;
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...cort/076-1.jpg
And my new lightweight version;
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...cort/077-1.jpg
looking great colin!
did you have any issues bleeding the brakes with the master cylinders being level if not below the height of the callipers?
i nearly went that way on mine but heard of bleeding issues and also long pedal caused by the fluid draining back to the master cylinder more easily, probably be fine but thought it worth mentioning in case you come across a brake issue
oh and if you do find you get a long pedal with the new setup, you can fit these in line to stop it happening
http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product...oducts_id=4081
I can't comment on that as I haven't bled the brakes yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by lee303
I must admit I hadn't considered the height, but plenty of race cars use floor mounted pedal boxes with direct reservoirs. Thanks for drawing my attention to it, if I get any problems it's certainly something to think about.
Thanks for that, I hope I don't have a problem as I have enough to get done to the car without having to order more bits, wait for them to arrive and then get them plumbed in and tested!Quote:
Originally Posted by lee303
yeah like i say it may well be fine, but i know that quite a few of the prototypes run the residual pressure valves to get rid of the need to double pump the pedal, at least you wont be scratching your head if you do find a problem:wtf: but can appreciate the hassle it may entail isn’t what you need right now!
Colin ~ depending on ride height you might want to put the RJ rod ends under rather than over on the knuckles.
Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by BRoadGhost
We did all the geometry and corner weights yesterday, and the steering arms are perfectly flat with the TRE above the knuckle, and just a thin washer under the rose joint to prevent any binding up on metal to metal contact.
Straight out of the box the corner weights were within 2kg on the diagonals.
It was weighed without the exhaust system, doors, rear bumper or the rear side/tailgate windows.
And the total weight was..............drum roll............540kg.
I reckon those bits that need to be bolted back on will weigh 25-30kg, so my target weight of 570kg certainly seems to have been achieved.
I'll weigh it again once everything is back on the car just to be sure.
Once the split rims go on the front, and I get the lighter weight front brakes fitted, there should be another 10 to 15kg to come off the total. Happy.
That is a good result, all your pinching and stealing 100-200grams here and there have certainly added up without taking anything away from the overall car.
Good result so far Colin
Without going back through 101 pages - what was the weight when you first started ?
Off the top of my head it was 614kg.Quote:
Originally Posted by fearless
Was great to see this in the flesh, great bit of kit - and cheers for the tour colin - i'd love your place!
Got the brakes bled yesterday, and the wide rear arches pop rivetted into place.
It's not going to be looking terribly pretty for the racing this weekend, as I won't have time to get the arches blended in and professionally painted.
A few aerosols of red paint will have to suffice.
It's a shame as there might be a TV opportunity, as 'Fifth Gear' are there (at Gurston Down) to film Tiff Needell driving the Ariel Atom V8.
I took the Nova for the first test run since doing all this work, and it's much quicker than before.
Unfortunately I have issues with the brakes.......the new KAD discs on the back are locking up too early, and no amount of fiddling with the bias valve seems to help.
Further experimenting will continue today on the brake rollers at the local MoT station.
I'm not sure if the bias valve is to blame (it was OK last season), or whether these discs are just too efficient, especially when coupled with the weight loss that's happened at the back end.
I've got another bias valve I can try, but failing that I think the only cure (short-term), is to somehow reduce the efficiency of the rear brakes, possibly by removing part of the rear brake pad area.
you could get some lairy as feck pads that need a LOT of heat in them to start working.... That way the fronts will do the bulk of the work until the rears get a little heat in and they start to do their job.
if you are really struggling, you could grind some grooves in the pads or remove some pad material
edit: read something wrong.
or a well placed air bubble!
Does he REALLY need rear brakes at all though.... So vaugely working ones will be more than adequate imho
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben
CP's old trick after he fitted Wilwood two pots on the rear lol
i agree for years very inadequate drums served novas well, rear discs are purely a vanity modification on nova's (obviously in this instance its for weight saving).
Not sure if this will work, but Put that second bias in, after the first?
Most bias valves work on a stupid setup where no matter what you set the valve to they let past (for example) 100Psi and then reduce the line pressure after that depending on the valve setting.
IF you have lock up problems at 85Psi (for example) then no amount of bias valves will help.
On my wilwood one i tested it braking on bends turning it by half a rotation per time til it didnt lock the rears.
I dont know how they work, but if you max out the first one, then reduce it again to let less through the second one, but it may already be maxed out so to speak?
if they limit the pressure then 2 valves limiting ot 80psi will be the same as 1
If they both only START limiting from 100psi (example) then having 10000000000000 of them wont help if you lock at 80psi.
This could help click me as it actually locks the line. It might be as efficient the other way round and limit the rear pressure more than an adjustable bias valve can.
Colin, I'm assuming you're also running a fixed in-line bias valve for the rear like on the stock Nova? if not fitting one might help.
Ok, if they limited a % through it would have worked, but they dont. As i said i didnt know how they worked.
could you fit a valve that can stop fluid going to the back brakes?
on my mid engined autocross nova i have a bias valve that allows me to adjust or turn off the front brakes so i can use the brake pedal as a hand brake
like i have already said, if it is over braking on the rear, you could physically remove brake material from the pad. or get a different sized master cyl for the rear
Removing pad material wont 'lose' much braking imho... The pads are small and assuming the contact is in the middle of the pad he will wind up taking the top 75% off the pad, it will sit wonky and really go wrong when braking, so the upper 25% would need leaving on too, which will result in more force on the outer edge.
tbh just adding a layer of grease might reduce things enough
I did consider that......Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuart
But fortunately it looks like the problem is now solved.
I ran it on the brake rollers at my friendly local MoT station, and the back brakes were locking up with almost no pressure on the pedal.
And it didn't seem to make a blind bit of difference on where the pressure valve was adjusted to either. Also, rather worryingly there was no physical 'stop' on the valve, so you could actually unwind the knob completely out of the valve (and then spray fluid over the whole interior!).
So I pinched the AP Racing pressure valve off my Fiesta circuit race car, and installed that in the Nova.
With the brakes bled and back on the rollers, there was an immediate improvement, as I needed to properly stand on the pedal to lock the backs up.
On the (private, naturally) road it pulls up nice and square, and all seems well, steering nice and straight and pulling right up to the rev limiter in 5th (about 115mph, although I really must work it out properly).
the grease idea will make a mess of the pad.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuart
i'm serious about cutting the area down, it was a method used lots when everyone had drum brakes & there weren't off the shelf bias valves.., i'm not on about simply hacking it, more like a spot of cnc machining..
simply reducing the pad area wont necessarily change the actual braking effort... just increases pad wear. Like I said, if you only had the smallest diameter part exposed then yeah reduced braking effect (marginally as its not going to be far from the pressure centre), but you may get a wonky pad when trying to stop.
Seems like using a proper inline limiter has worked, what was the one you had before? a tilton etc?
I have no idea who made the previous one, it was absolutely tiny, with no markings on it to indicate a manufacturer. I will post up a few photos shortly, I would be curious to find out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuart
We carried out some rudimentary testing of the 2 valves by blowing through them, and the one which was on the car originally offered no restriction to the amount of air flowing through it.
The AP one which is now on the car is much more substantial, and heavier, but it works!
This was the valve which came off the car (the one that was faulty). Anyone recognise what make/origin it has?;
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/016-22.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/017-25.jpg
And this is what's been fitted now (being bigger the brake pipe is now too long so it isn't fitting quite straight);
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/018-24.jpg
Looks like a tilton style one.
The blow test also implies its the type that has a 'free flow' rating then the adjust simple changes how much it limits after a given pressure.
The design certainly looks similar to Tilton (here's a photo of the latest version);Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuart
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...imagethumb.jpg
It seems brake pressure valves are very much prone to faults/failures, I spoke to 2 of my racing friends this morning, and both of them have knackered valves sat in drawers......
old valve looks identical to pneumatic restricters we use at work.
thats all they are.Quote:
Originally Posted by gary_808
Hi Colin how did you get on at Gurston Down ?