CP's Trackday 1.6 on TB's re-build

Well this fooking dowell thing has led me on a right old goose chase this evening:mad:
I decided reluctantly, even though my instincts told me it wasn't necessary, to split the cluster back down and try and find a home for it. The upshot of the entire evening wasted was that, short of drilling my own hole for it somewhere randomly, there is no place for it to go, no reason for the cluster to need one and SO NO FOOKIN NEED FOR IT BE IN THE BASTID KIT IN THE FIRST PLACE!!!!:mad:

Anyway I feel better now thats off my chest. I think I might superglue it to the dash so that when the gearbox mashes its internals up cos a special dowell wasn't in place I can think to myself yep I was wrong I did need it after all -shortly before I shoot myselflol

To finish off the evening I've also discovered that I need to grind some of the diff housing away to get the new crown wheel in. Its very tight:eek:

the joys of motorsport parts!

it'll all be worth it in the end.

p.s. bagsy a ride :)

Might have to cling to the roll cage, no poofy passenger seat in this car!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MC

Might have to cling to the roll cage, no poofy passenger seat in this car!

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suits me fine lol

Got round the crown wheel not fitting in issue. Its bigger and wider than std so it has to go in first before the cluster is installed;)

Next issue we've been pondering is front wheel bearings. I dont really want to change drive shafts cos I'm not thrashing it all with any heavy torque driveshaft snapping standing starts but I would like to fit larger hub bearings to resist the lateral cornering loads which have increased greatly now we have decent brakes. I called my bearing supplier who looked up the std bearing size (33.9mm ID and 68 OD IIRC) to see if there is an over size bearing made. Nup basically.
So at the mo. I'm considering buying 2.0l bearings and sleeving the hubs to fit. Anyone got any gen?

The problem rears its ugly head when braking on a straight following a high G corner. It appears that the slicks are generating enough G to cause some movement in the standard bearings. This coupled with the extra diameter of the discs is enough to push the pads back. First time the pedal is pressed and it goes to the floor. Second time its back. We developed a teqnique of a quick pump before applying the brakes which works, but it would be nice to know they are always there.

MC

you could use some residual pressure valves in the front brake lines if thats the only issue it causes

AP racing have there rotors mounted on bobbins to prevent pad knock like you are experiencing.

Or fit knockback springs. These fit inside the caliper behind the piston. TBH though you are better off preventing the movement of the rotor, better to find a cure than a quick fix :thumb: