Project: Gold Snowplough Turbo

UPDATE

Continued from where I left off... the plug cover was almost fully stripped but there were some hard to reach areas. Left it in some more dissolver solution to get accessible areas stripped and then did the final areas by hand. Areas such as lettering, corners, and anywhere else the solution didn't submerge. I attacked those bits with some Nitromors, wire brush and sanding blocks. After witnessing how quick the dissolver was, Nitromors felt like it took absolute ages to do it's work.

After a good 2 hours or so for those small areas and a good going over with medium grit wet and dry I got the spark plug cover to this stage
https://images2.imgbox.com/43/83/BvVuNZ55_o.jpg
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/9840/1003057.jpg

I then had a chat with the chap that is going to plate things and I should be meeting up on Thursday some time to get things handed over. I then whet to make sure I had all the bits put aside for plating.

All these will be done
https://images2.imgbox.com/29/3b/7EpkzQZF_o.jpg
http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/6492/1003058j.jpg

There are in fact 3-4 more bits that aren't shown but this is pretty much the lot. I've added a few more little bits 'n pieces so no doubt the quote will go up a tad.

UPDATE

Popped to the chap a bit earlier to discuss things in detail and to hand all the bits to him for plating. A real nice guy who happens to like cars and seems to know his stuff inside out when it comes to plating. When we discussed what needed doing the parts count was bewteen 90-100 for £75-£80. After finding more things that needed to be plated and a few bits that I ordered in the last week the count literally doubled to 200 lol In total including the spark plug cover is £200. Which is a very good price - it is a fiddly task as he'll need to disassemble all the jubilee clips including screw in order to plate them properly. Plus the plug cover being a composite metal it may take a dip in different metals before gold will plate to it right.

The guy showed me his iPhone which he plated too... looked impressive.

Should get the bits next week... cannot wait!

Also fitted the SBD Nylon relief valve to the oil pump... no pics though.

any update's

Not as yet fella... waiting for the plater to get back to me. It's taking longer than usual due to some of the parts being corroded. It don't bother me as it means he is doing a proper job.

UPDATE


Due to the weather being nice yesterday it got me in the mood to do some stuff. In this case, some painting.


Had a look around the bay and saw the brake pedal blanking cover looking shabby (left side of the bay). I still wonder why they have that cover there on the Nova's. Why would there even be a cut out in the firewall if the brake servo was always going to be on the passenger side. The location of that cover is perfect for a servo to sit there. Was it just a case of no room to have it there or is there another reason I'm unaware of? Odd... but needed taking off and painting anyway


Rubbed it down and gave it a good clean
https://images2.imgbox.com/cb/c1/2Thry30Z_o.jpg


Then gave it many coats of enamel black paint for a really durable finish
https://images2.imgbox.com/63/97/yaBOTNhW_o.jpg


As it dried I sorted out some bits for the Cavalier.


I also got these bits in the post this week




Early toothed crank pulley with an intact clip
https://images2.imgbox.com/b5/00/6tSbFZO0_o.jpg


A set of slightly used SBD pump gears (any ideas what the little triangle is on the larger gear?)
https://images2.imgbox.com/3a/98/nmEpBBaB_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/92/8e/nCYP2bzR_o.jpg


A pair of 1/2bspt to 3/8bsp reducers for my oil cooler. Searched high and low for these and managed to find the correct size and only cost a few quid woohoo!
https://images2.imgbox.com/5f/e6/K0zYp5a9_o.jpg


After leaving the blanking plate in the garage overnight, here's how it looked
https://images2.imgbox.com/5a/3a/pI4K8rqQ_o.jpg

good work.

are you painting the bay/bits in the bay?

The bay isn't how you seen it. it was painted/cleaned I just haven't had any pics taken of it.

I think the markings on the large oil pump gear is for fitting direction? Isn't there a circle on the other side or something? Haynes tells you which faces outwards

How do you know they're SBD ones, they don't look any different to me

Yes there is a dot on the otherside which is the side which faces you but the old gear had a square mark on the underside and these new ones have a triangle. The chap sold me his pump which had SBD internals including relief valve. He had swapped his oil pump for a modded zLET. He is a MIG member for a while so there were no reasons to doubt him. The gears are tighter anyway my gears were boardering worn. He sold me the lot for a very good price so it was worth it.

any news on the plating?

Yeah in fact... Got a text today saying it should be ready Wednesday ish.

UPDATE


Ordered a couple bits from Vauxhall which arrived today


Bonnet bumpers
https://images2.imgbox.com/0c/4f/IjLrmDxl_o.jpg


One of mine has started to perish. I've also ordered the rubber bumpers that fix into the front wings which the bonnet rests on when shut.


10 new fly wheel bolts (you only need 8 but they are sold in packs of 5... go figure)
https://images2.imgbox.com/aa/7c/UpLa6v8m_o.jpg


Also got a pair of brand new inner CV's utilising the £5 off PayPal voucher


Will be calling the plater to see if my bits are ready as he said they should be done by tomorrow.

looking good tek :)

Cheers Pie

UPDATE


Weather was nice so I thought I'd do some more improving.


Not many things left to actually make 'better' but this came to my attention so I decided to spruce it up to match the rest of the car.


Petrol cap started off like this after a bit of cleaning and some wet n dry treatment
https://images2.imgbox.com/20/7a/P8ovjS4W_o.jpg


Then gave it a few coats of plastic primer
https://images2.imgbox.com/90/2e/ogJVwiCB_o.jpg


Rubbed it down after letting it dry but for some reason a section of it didn't dry properly and kinda messed up whilst flatting it. So I had to re do that stage and decided to leave it overnight somewhere warm to properly harden.


I then got a call from the plater guy and he had said that my stuff was ready.


Just come back from picking the stuff up and I'm happy with the results. Some of the non-new stuff couldn't be plated due to the type of metal it was or it was past it's best and had too much corrosion for the plating to work properly. He did his best on those bits that were ok to plate.


All the new stuff plated well with no problems. The only challenges he is facing is the spark plug cover and oil cap. Both are made of a combination of a few types of metals [alloy] and don't always conduct uniformly, so the plating will happen well in areas and not too well in others. The spark plug cover also has stained in a couple areas where the corrosion had started so they need to be plated in a few base metal first in order for them to come out as best as poss. He's kept them to try some more techniques to see what holds the best in order to plate them but seeing as they will be the centre piece they have too look good.

Try get some pics with them under a light, as from them pics they just look electro plated, not gold plated.

But as long as your happy dude, crack on..

Using a flash never helps

As Scott said, that arn't gold plated dude, just look dipped and kinda anodized..

It's the light chaps. Very difficult to get the colour to come through in pictures the flash just takes it away. I'll try see what it looks like in natural light. The pictures do not do it justice.

Nice bolts, again..

UPDATE


Here's the outcome of the fuel cap I painted the other day. I haven't flatted it just yet as the rattle can lacquer takes a week or so to go properly hard (excuse the bad pic)
https://images2.imgbox.com/46/2d/FysG0uDs_o.jpg


I have set myself some odd jobs to get done this week as I'm owed extra time off due to taking on more hours. I'm hoping to get these odd jobs sorted so that they are out the way and will allow me to concentrate on the important stuff.


On today's to-do list was the fuel tank. I knew there was a split/missing section of breather hose, the smaller 4mm ID hose but another reason was to inspect and make sure the floor was cushty and for the tank to get some lovin'.


Up went the back end on the drive-on ramps and under I went. I unhooked the handbrake cable from the handbrake rod, removed all the hoses connected to various places, the larger filler neck hose was a bit more of a pain. I though I'd removed the P-clip which hold the bottom of the filler neck but the bolt had seized and anymore force the bracket that holds it would bend a bit too much. Undid the tank straps and lowered the jack to lower the tank. The biggest ball ache was the filler neck breather which is situated right at the top of the tank. It's held on by a jubilee that locks into itself and is the tightest of squeezes to undo. My knuckles still hurt!


In the end, thanks to Mowgli's simple idea, I cut it off. Just as well really as it was funked beyond funked. Split 6 ways and literally fused to the tank. I'll be replacing the hose with some proper 11mm ID rubber fuel hose and will join it to the current breather hose a bit further up where it is in good condition.


Once removed I was left with this sight
https://images2.imgbox.com/77/85/U25DlRaD_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/9c/0c/seSMVJhM_o.jpg


A tiny bit of surface corrosion around the edges of the floor but still very solid. I was expecting a hidden nightmare but I was smiling when I saw it. Treated the small areas in question with some rust remedy and allowed it to properly work its way in. I'll be seam sealing the seams (duh) and either acid etching or zinc primer to the bare metal bits and I'll then stone chip it. I cleaned up the floor and got rid of the dust, dirt and cob webs.


Also need to find out how to remove the tank straps.


Next came tackling the tank. Here's how it came out.
https://images2.imgbox.com/3e/29/eVLPDtrk_o.jpg


https://images2.imgbox.com/b0/7f/L33UO2LI_o.jpg


This of course is the side which faces the road. The other side was clean a few little areas of corrosion but again everything else was solid. Plenty of Mr. Muscle Oven Cleaner and the trusty drill and wire brush attachment made shifting the crud was easy.


Letting Mr. Muscle do the job I hate
https://images2.imgbox.com/3b/41/RUmocS9V_o.jpg


Had to go over a few times to remove the waxoil type protection on the tank but it eventually came out. Then went over it with some 240 grit wet n dry and get it all evenly flat and then put some final rust remedy to the affected areas.
https://images2.imgbox.com/21/88/D6DwyWvO_o.jpg


I also seam sealed the joins of the tank to stop any moisture working away at it.


Then it got dark... Was at it since 12pm! Tomorrow will see the tank get primer and a coating. I've opted to go for Enamel black as it's hard wearing, easily wiped and easy to re-coat should I need to in the future.


I need a drink!

Not sure on the bolts.

With the cap i would have masked off the lock.

But, its all coming on well.

With the bolts the picture don't help, totally agree. I think picture with them used in the bay will give a better idea of the finish. I was thinking to mask the lock but I though I'd see how it looks all painted. Lock still works fine.

Looking good Tek!

Cheers Vlietje :thumb:

UPDATE


So another lovely spring day and therefore no excuse to not do any work.


Started where I left off the tank. All the seam sealer had hardened and the rust remedy done its work properly. I popped to Halfords and got some Zinc Primer, and some more enamel paint as I had a can at home already. I also got some 4.8mm fuel hose to use as a breather and 32mm socket for the CV nut.


Got home and gave the tank one final rub down with a brillo pad to remove any grease and stuff that I had missed. I then hung it up on the line, let it dry and gave it a couple coats of Zinc primer. Just managed to cover all the bare metal with the can I got. Lucky I had 2 cans of enamel black.


As the primer dried
https://images2.imgbox.com/ff/b7/AugHSVyh_o.jpg


https://images2.imgbox.com/2c/b4/VymShDGv_o.jpg

Once it had hardened, I prepped it for some enamel paint



1st coat
https://images2.imgbox.com/ff/bf/RPExNmPs_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/0a/34/ymGtVDnH_o.jpg

and another
https://images2.imgbox.com/da/69/iqwCnu6j_o.jpg


I let that dry outside. I made sure the breather hose was the correct fit and it was perfect. The actual length of the breather hose is about 1.1 metres so I had to clean up the old breather and cut a good bit of section to join to the new one. The new hose is a bit thicker too but the clips on the tank were able to accommodate it. Found some 13mm fuel hose so I thought I'd try see if it fits the larger breather outlet (the original one I measured as 11mm). It fit nice and snug! Only thing is that I can't seem to see how the current breather is attached to the filer neck. It doesn't look like it'll come off... that can't be right can it? I must have seen wrong!


If it does come off like I imagine it does, I'll just replace the whole lot with this 13mm hose. I originally got it for the fuel pump as it has a 13mm connection but I won't need 1 metre of it so I can use a section of it for the breather.


The tank is in the garage hanging up hardening as it's nice and warm.


Tomorrow I'll most likely get the tank fitted back once I give the underside a good going over. And possibly get the pump mounted and plumbed it too... weather permitting!

Is that not a carb tank? Won't you need an injection tank for the LET?

If you want an internal swirl pot yes.

UPDATE

The postman woke me up with some goodies I got from eBay on Monday

24 pre-cut sound deadening pads. These will be used for the underside of the roof skin. Originally the Nova has two large brown bread type padding which is glued to the skin but they just don't seem to stay glued to it. I've cleaned it up and re-glued the panel and tried re-sticking it but after a while it keeps dropping. So I decided that was it.
https://images2.imgbox.com/a1/b0/MVv29NxL_o.jpg

First up though was to treat the small area of surface corrosion that had started on the skin (Bad pic I know I was in the front seat taking a shot from the rear seat forwards )
https://images2.imgbox.com/19/5e/uQ80Hyo1_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/d3/31/zVkrYaDk_o.jpg

As you can see, it was minor. Rubbed it down, treated with rust remedy and left to work. In the mean time I decided to get cracking and stick the sound deadening pads down.

Before
https://images2.imgbox.com/49/dc/8nV2Ioon_o.jpg

Gave the panel a quick clean and wipe and he presto

After
https://images2.imgbox.com/0d/e5/R9LGBvZn_o.jpg

I then thought I'd have a look see how the breather hose was connected to the filler neck as I couldn't quite tell last time I had a quick peek. This time I realised that it was only clipped on. I didn't notice the clip due to the fresh underseal making everything look the same. Rolled the Nova out, removed the rear wheel and had a go at removing the breather. It literally twisted off as the hose was shot. Got out the 13mm hose and it was a great fit so I cut it to length and fitted that with a new jubilee clip. Looks so much fresher, sorry I didn't grab any photos, but I did get a photo of the manky old breather hose
https://images2.imgbox.com/c5/cf/iPn0rvRv_o.jpg

Now it was time for the gearbox. Those that remember way back in the thread, I found a small hole which was covered up. The hole looked like something exited from it. I had the hole welded over but I wanted to first see if there was anything dodgy and to also drain the oil out and fit a new gasket. This F20 has 10 bolts holding the sump plate in place IIRC some have 11? The oil looked quite fresh and clean so must've been changed just before the box was removed. It looked nice and clean inside too. I was expecting a bit more sludge and blackness and sh*t.

I did however see the following... must've been something to do with what caused the hole.
https://images2.imgbox.com/bf/0c/MNFDVsvP_o.jpg

A couple chipped teeth on the gear and the same on the speedo ring. Everything else looks ok. Wondering what to do about it though?

As is it now customary, I decided to paint the sump plate

Before
https://images2.imgbox.com/e6/67/lYXQUg3j_o.jpg

Rub down, clean, wipe and a few coats of enamel black
https://images2.imgbox.com/af/8a/merSPAUo_o.jpg

After
https://images2.imgbox.com/e3/3f/K5dpm57S_o.jpg

Tomorrow I plan to attack the small areas of corrosion and paint/protect the are before I fit the tank back, then mount the fuel pump, filter and damper and connect it to the tank and possibly run some wires to it.


Until then...

where are you fitting the swirl pot? :)

Replace the diff.And then pull out the cluster and check for other signs of damage.

My f20 blew a hole in the plate too so I got a new plate from GM and new oil and it blew something else and the oil poured out the clutch inspection plates lol I then sold the engine so never knew wtf happened.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by John

where are you fitting the swirl pot? :)

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I'm currently looking at different ones and their sizes. I'll then think about where I'll put it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Andy

Replace the diff.And then pull out the cluster and check for other signs of damage.

---

Sounds like I'll have to take it to a gearbox place for it to be replaced. Never worked on a gearbox.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brainsnova

My f20 blew a hole in the plate too so I got a new plate from GM and new oil and it blew something else and the oil poured out the clutch inspection plates lol I then sold the engine so never knew wtf happened.

---

Oh dear! What would blow a hole through it though? No doubt it was being used as the hole was blocked and new oil put in.

You can make a tool to get the diff out yourself if your handy with a welder-involves 4 thick squares of metal welded to a socket to end up looking like * if you get me?
Or get a 2nd hand box of course.

Don't have a welder mate. I'll phone a couple places see what I get quoted.

Just get a known good box-it will be £250+to repair that

Any difference between F20 and F28 diffs? Are they interchangable? I'll still ring and ask just for labour costs. Who's to say the replacement box don't have an issue or an impending one?

UPDATE


More sunshine = more work


Got the Nova back on the ramps to get the underside sorted before I put the tank back.


Gave the areas in question a few coats with Zinc primer and then went over all the joins with some seam sealer to make sure they won't start rusting again.
https://images2.imgbox.com/e7/5e/ksFxi56u_o.jpg


https://images2.imgbox.com/9f/5e/soqZ0Dqz_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/e5/00/shHvhOEz_o.jpg


I let it dry for a while then gave the whole area a good clean then applied some stonechip underseal spray
https://images2.imgbox.com/b6/70/3B3XB2mj_o.jpg

https://images2.imgbox.com/a3/e4/HiQlCjWM_o.jpg


https://images2.imgbox.com/3c/c9/ZwVtlfNe_o.jpg


I let that try and gave the tank straps a clean and some paint too. Now came the ball ache of trying to put the tank back. Took ages especially trying to fit the breather hose into position. Eventually got it sorted and the tank looks spanking all hoses mint... nice!
https://images2.imgbox.com/38/97/PpPQkTVE_o.jpg


Need to secure the breather hose at the filler neck end and also sort out the pump assembly. had to finish off quickly as I had a leaving do to go to, mate from work was moving to another store.


If the weather holds out then tomorrow should see that get done too.


Knackered!

good work tek, ive got a spare standard diff and a cluster if you needed them.

Cheers Brucer, it may be of use to me. I'll let you know what happens when the gearbox is opened up for inspection.