Over night soak in full fat value cokeacola??
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Over night soak in full fat value cokeacola??
Interesting idea that
wire wheel for pistons, thats how i cleaned my set up. takes off carbon easy.
Yeah wire wheel would eat that sh*t up easy.
UPDATE
After doing 7 days in a row at work I finally had a day off... wooooo! So I got cracking. Thought I'd give the hydraulic tappets a crack and see if I could clean them and unstick the seized ones.
So here we have one seized hydraulic tappet. A couple firm whacks against a firm surface, a quick jiggle and pull removes the centre part of the tappet and we now have two pieces
https://images2.imgbox.com/91/14/ASIKN5pO_o.jpg
I assumed that cleaning it as it stood would solve the seized-ness (as some people don't go all the way to remove the smaller section into it's separate parts) but it still wouldn't compress. So no choice but to go ahead and crack open the little tappet. I personally used a small precise flat blade screwdriver to carefully prise off the retaining ring (it simply clips on to the body of the tappet).
https://images2.imgbox.com/e8/cf/Xnr4o4ny_o.jpg
Once carefully removed we now have the outer sleeve, inner sleeve with the ball bearing, spring and retaining clip.
https://images2.imgbox.com/bd/02/VK7ukRE5_o.jpg
Everything seemed ok but there was a bit of gunky oil with slight deposits. The oil was blacker than black though. Gave the bits a good clean allowing them to soak in some meth spirit and a blast of carb cleaner to remove the gunk. After a wipe with a clean cloth and left to dry for a mo, I was left with the bits looking like this
https://images2.imgbox.com/87/b6/XAVdrsfd_o.jpg
So fresh and clean!
Then it was back to re-assembly. Got out some part empty oil, in this case some fully synthetic Mobil 1 SuperSyn stuff and literally put a drop of oil into the outer sleeve. I then put the spring on to the inner sleeve (sits on the bearing assembly) and slotted the bits into each other. The trick here is to only put a drop of oil as too much oil into the sleeve won't allow it to fully compress and therefore will feel seized and/or really stiff.
Once slotted back I put on the retaining ring and firmly pushed down to lock the ring in place. I then put a couple drops of oil into the larger half of the tappet and pushed the smaller bit into it. One fully working tappet all clean and compresses fine. Two cleaned ones together
https://images2.imgbox.com/36/ca/2NhQh7Lz_o.jpg
I then did the other six and thought I'd leave it for now as my fingers were aching . Once I had one row of tappets sorted I put them into a clean container and filler it up with some more oil and will leave them in there until the head is rebuilt.
https://images2.imgbox.com/e4/31/FogaLBK4_o.jpg
Next up is to do the remaining eight. May stick this up in Articles for reference.
UPDATE
No biggie, just an update for the record.
Managed to have a bit of free time after work while dinner was on the go. Got the remaining eight tappets cleaned, re-assembled and in a container full of oil.
https://images2.imgbox.com/56/40/Hc5qNnrU_o.jpg
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/1161/1002441j.jpg
Also managed to clean up the camshaft nuts and washers as they were filthy too. They used to be black but now look more like this
https://images2.imgbox.com/16/3f/BbHlBFT6_o.jpg
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/7910/1002440bd.jpg
UPDATE
It's been another while since the last update lol
I went on holiday for 3 and a half weeks and come back on Friday. Went to work the next day... and Sunday and Monday and today lol Good thing though is that I have 2 weeks off due to a refurb whooo.
This arrived the other day, needs a good clean but it's perfect otherwise.
https://images2.imgbox.com/95/29/dRAxvzih_o.jpg
Need to take the crank to be checked, the block to be cleaned and the head to be checked and/or skimmed.
Plan to do this this week... we'll see how it goes ;)
Excellent tappet cleanup how-to! :)
UPDATE
Spoke to a couple places yesterday about getting the crank, head and block checked/tested/measured.
Dropped off the bits to them today and should be getting a call in the coming days to see if al is well (fingers crossed).
Deffo know they'll turn round and say the crank needs a re-grind just hope nothing terrible is found. Hate waiting to hear news, always have bad feelings lol
Hope they dont need much doing... Glad to see your still cracking on.
Good progress Tekkypoos, I've not looked at your thread for a while. How long till you think its up and running again then?
Keep up the good work :)
We'll see... I think it may need a touch of welding on the head (mating face to the block) but that's yet to be confirmed, the crank regrind is a yes, light honing again looks to be needed.
I'll most probably hear from them Monday/Tuesday as I wanted them to call up and give me a price and what's needed. I never tell people to 'just do it' as you may as well give them a blank cheque lol
I'm still cracking on :)
Updates have decreased somewhat lately but I'm still working on it when I have time. Everytime I give an estimate it goes out the window, so I'm not going to guess. Just take things as they come. Although, I don't see it taking too much time. Would be nice to have it done for my birthday (November).
I'd like to take it for a road trip around Europe next summer, kinda an ambition of mine for the Nova. Time will tell.
UPDATE
Todays task was to clean what I could... I started with this
https://images2.imgbox.com/c8/8a/tJ4kjyfi_o.jpg
https://images2.imgbox.com/0e/ea/hBwei5Gd_o.jpg
It doesn't look 'bad' but it was shockingly dirty. Took a whole loads of detergent, a couple scouring pads and lots of water to get half the mess off. Once off a good going over with 400 wet and dry got it to this stage:
https://images2.imgbox.com/21/c6/Egj0Pwkh_o.jpg
https://images2.imgbox.com/9a/99/BbdIgaSV_o.jpg
Luckily, I found enough etch primer to be able to give the bare metal areas a decent coat... so that was up next. A bit tricky spraying as there were really heavy winds about. I left it to dry for a few hours:
https://images2.imgbox.com/51/e2/KHnvqX6V_o.jpg
https://images2.imgbox.com/5e/38/Qaz5PnGc_o.jpg
When dry, a good going over was needed with 1200 wet and dry (I'd normally use 800 but as there was none left 1200 was the next best). A good while later I got it to the paint stage.
https://images2.imgbox.com/0d/ed/ppB82Z8n_o.jpg
https://images2.imgbox.com/36/9d/cWpHAORW_o.jpg
At this point I was really contemplating whether to paint or not as it was still really blustery and the backing plate would just spin and bounce in the wind. I thought 'what the hell' and gave it as many coats of satin black possible with the amount of paint left in the can. Considering the conditions, it came out like this:
https://images2.imgbox.com/47/0b/RbHSr7I1_o.jpg
https://images2.imgbox.com/ca/27/3lEroO6B_o.jpg
Not bad eh?
Let it dry slightly and then decided to give the back half of the plate a coat of oil/fuel resistant lacquer. The front face didn't need it as it would be protected by the cambelt cover.
https://images2.imgbox.com/2c/fa/HkG9f0IM_o.jpg
Let that properly dry in the garage overnight. Should come out a treat tomorrow. If the dry weather holds out, more cleaning tomorrow is on the agenda.
UPDATE
After leaving the cambelt back plate in the garage overnight, the lacquer hardened nicely and looks tons better.
Next up was the oil pump. I know that there is a bit of debate over the oil pump normally whether to change it completely for a zLET pump with modified pick up pipe, or to go for SBD gears in standard cLET housing etc. Then again some people swear by just giving the thing a good clean making sure the gears aren't shagged.
Heard of relief valves getting stuck open... what would the causes be and is there anyway to tell if the valve is past it on inspection?
I'm currently going for the later option if the gears are not worn. So my first task was to clean the sh*t out of it as it looked like this
https://images2.imgbox.com/95/4f/HBahflYw_o.jpg
The usual load of elbow grease, carb cleaner/degreaser, tooth brush etc got it to this point (needs a bit more cleaning but I ran out of degreaser)
https://images2.imgbox.com/56/44/pAkdbHHC_o.jpg
Will continue cleaning it up tomorrow once I get some more degreaser. Once totally cleaned it'll get a coat of aluminium paint to match the rest of the engine bits. I cracked open the backing plate to check out the gears
https://images2.imgbox.com/bb/bc/EIoWWw7j_o.jpg
https://images2.imgbox.com/ee/89/A6DpALBW_o.jpg
Looks like it had fresh oil before it went off the road. Need to go over it with a feeler blade but it looks fine with the naked eye. If it does prove to be perfectly fine, I'll be renewing the seal and giving everything a good flush and clean before it goes back on as you can feel dirt particles when turning the pump by hand.
No news for the chaps at the engine shop.
UPDATE
After picking up some more cleaning products, I continued where I left off with the oil pump. I wasn't ecstatic with the outcome of the clean up I did yesterday as there was still a bit more filth in places. As I picked up some carb cleaner and Swarfega Jizer (thought it said Jizzer lol ) I thought I'd give the Jizer a go. Gotta say that it does shift crap real nicely. Very impressed... it is now on my list of useful products.
https://images2.imgbox.com/af/2f/eNZ1AlUk_o.jpg
Here's the outcome
https://images2.imgbox.com/5f/8a/VqePNKF3_o.jpg
I then cracked open the cover plate again to expose the gears for a clean up
https://images2.imgbox.com/3f/fe/ayJLwRTZ_o.jpg
https://images2.imgbox.com/a8/7b/BJgz2Coq_o.jpg
A good going over with plenty of carb cleaner got all the bits looking like this
https://images2.imgbox.com/c3/e4/JbGcW3ol_o.jpg
Then came the fun bit of masking up bits so I could give the pump a lick of paint
https://images2.imgbox.com/79/41/LUehPAif_o.jpg
https://images2.imgbox.com/9f/8d/hIMNYB9G_o.jpg
First gave the back side a few coats...
https://images2.imgbox.com/9f/76/DABHG34q_o.jpg
Let it become touch dry, then did the front...
https://images2.imgbox.com/39/06/07txMYOQ_o.jpg
Re-assembled the pump internals
https://images2.imgbox.com/34/20/rIbPCmNx_o.jpg
Poured a few drops of clean, fresh oil and gave it a few turns by hand. Much better as there was no feeling of hearing dirt getting crushed when turning over like it did before. Closed up the back plate, fetched the oil pressure sender from the garage and fitted that also. End Result
https://images2.imgbox.com/ae/dc/TK1QJOIW_o.jpg
I'll be most likely changing the relief valve as that had some uneven wear by the looks of it. SBD do the Relief valve kit with Nylon valve, spring, nut and washer for £49.95. The Steel inner gear is £130. In terms of parts that need an inspection, clean, rebuild... I think that was the last of them. Just a case of hearing from the engine shop about what sized bearings are needed after the reground and ordering bits to put the LET back together.
oops double postage!
odd.. only clicked post once but it gave me two identical posts!
love the work you doing pal, hope to see at the show's next year?
Sound idea Tek.
After throwing a rod whilst going round Silverstone (Trax, back in 2000) I went the same route with my relief valve. In my case, the suspected cause of death was a stuck relief valve, but I never really found out. All I could find was a spun big end bearing shell and lots of debris. Anyway, as I was spending money on the valve kit I decided to get the steel oil pump gears as well. And never looked back. If you have £130 burning a hole in your pocket, get the gears as well. Peace of mind and all that.
Cheers,
Niek
Thanks matey :thumb:
The relief valve has deffo concerned me a little Niek, some scoring generally but more so a shiny spot on one side where there looks to be more friction. £50 is no real big deal price wise so worth doing. The gears look ok with even wear. Couldn't find exact wear tolerances to measure with a feeler blade but all teeth seemed to have even wear. Was a bit surprised as to how many few parts there are to an oil pump lol two gears and that's about it :)
The steel gear would be a nice addition but I'd need to find a £130 notes from somewhere.
UPDATE
Got a few bits today...
I wasn't going to get this particular part originally as I didn't quite plan going all out and doing a rebuild but seeing as the engine was in the shop getting bits done to it I decided to
TX Autosport Magnetic sump plug (pretty strong magnet)
https://images2.imgbox.com/a5/e7/rfFBMtj5_o.jpg
Also got this a bit later on in the day
https://images2.imgbox.com/94/aa/VzgwWKip_o.jpg
Mocal Universal Oil Cooler kit:
Oil filter sandwich plate M18
Sandwich plate seals
2x 1/2bsp sandwich plate hose fitting
2m of 1/2inch ID high temp/high pressure oil hose
2x 1/2bsp straight union
2x 1/2bsp 90degree union
4x hose clips
Oil cooler mounting brackets and all the nuts/bolts etc
Only problem I seem to be having is finding out what size the inlet/outlet is on the cooler itself. I opted for the smaller 1/2bsp fittings as there was a 5/8bsp kit available also, but the cooler seems to have smaller fitting on them
I should be getting the engine back on Thursday. It would've had a crank reground (.25), block cleaned, bores honed, head skim, pressure tested and 8 new valve guides (of those 8 some were cracked and some were in half). Of course pics will be put up when I get them.
oops double postage!
UPDATE
Day off so I headed to the engine shop in the morning to pick up the block, head and crank. All was well, when I noticed that he forgot to remove a snapped bolt from the head. Previous owner must've snapped an inlet stud, tried to get it out but messed it right up! It will be removed and then have a new insert fitted. Will be picking the head up when I'm next off.
In the end the following was done:
- Block flushed
- Honed bores
- Crank re-ground .25 and polished
- Tad bit of weld needed where a waterway had corroded on head
- Head skimmed
- New valve guides
- New valve stems
- Re-lapped valves
- Vacuum tested after valves refitted
- Pistons measured
Got the bits home and decided, as the weather was good, to prepare and paint the block.
First up, the crank in it's new condition
https://images2.imgbox.com/b1/6a/6fM5A2uu_o.jpg
And the block
https://images2.imgbox.com/36/aa/6Ja6Csvv_o.jpg
https://images2.imgbox.com/64/50/y287MoiA_o.jpg
https://images2.imgbox.com/11/69/fjduB5LO_o.jpg
All clean on the underside and inside
https://images2.imgbox.com/ce/16/4WSiVzrh_o.jpg
I then set off removing the last bits of old red paint on the block. Had no choice but to use a small wire brush and a flat blade screw driver to chisel off the paint. It took absolute ages but I was finally happy with it. Gave it a cleaning with degreaser (Jizer), wiped it dry and masked places that didn't need painting.
Front of the block
https://images2.imgbox.com/e1/ff/PENmvIoS_o.jpg
The back was just as clean. Now it was time for paint... gave it about 3-4 coats of paint and let it dry
https://images2.imgbox.com/d0/ce/9UAlc1tZ_o.jpg
As it became touch dry, I thought 'now's the chance to weigh the block and see how heavy it is'. Got out the scales and put it on there. I got 35.4 KG's the first go. 'This can't be right' I thought, 'feels heavier than that'. Moved the scales to another flat surface and tried again... 35.4 KG's. So there we have it, unless my scales are totally out, the block weighs that much!
Block is now in the garage to fully dry over night.
Need to start ordering internals.
Magnetic sump plug is defo a winner
Nice work on the engine internals, let the rebuild commence now! Fun fun fun
Cooler sandwich plate... Don't you want one with a thermostat built in? Or are you going to get an external thermostat?
Yep, can't go wrong for £12
I'll be getting an external stat, think it's best that way. But I'm sure something is missing, as there is no where for the oil filter thread adapter to screw on to (or am I being a tard?)
The real fun begins now :)
it goes through the sandwich plate and screws into the oil pump.
Im selling that kit with the oil cooler off my project lol
Ok so the big double ended bolt (male/female) seen below next to the sandwich plate
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/2944/1002741t.jpg
fits through the sandwich plate and screws into the thread seen here in the picture of the pump right?
http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/4301/1002730w.jpg
So there needs to be a male attachment to screw into the female part of the adaptor as the oil filter is female. (Apologies in advanced if I'm missing the point, it's been a long day, I've eaten too much dinner and feel sleepy lol)
UPDATE
Another day off (why do days off go by so quickly?), weather was a bit rubbish but it was dry for a good few hours giving me the chance to finish off what I was doing the other day. I picked up the head from the engine shop on Friday but was too busy over the weekend to post up any updates. So here it is with, as I mentioned before, skimmed, valves lapped, new valve guides, new stem seals, pressure and vacuum tested.
https://images2.imgbox.com/56/f0/AbBv9F9H_o.jpg
Close up of where it was welded (water way), didn't need much but it did need it
https://images2.imgbox.com/03/fb/wPAyCIyU_o.jpg
Then came the real fun bit of masking up the head... took, what felt like, hours to do.
https://images2.imgbox.com/d2/ab/KmAs8eDW_o.jpg
I then painted it same colour as the block, finished 3/4 of a can and let it dry.
https://images2.imgbox.com/2a/90/bM6reO0U_o.jpg
As it was drying I thought I'd quickly clean up the air filter to turbo hose. For those that forgot what it looked like
https://images2.imgbox.com/95/29/dRAxvzih_o.jpg
After a scrub and a good wipe
https://images2.imgbox.com/78/4b/MeutNoaG_o.jpg
Much better!
By the time I got that sorted the head was dry enough to handle. Took off all the masking... It was now a good chance to weigh the head to see how heavy it was, seeing as I weighed the block............................................. ...................... outcome was 14.6 KG. considering it has the valves, valve springs, stem seals, inlet/exhaust studs. I then thought 'hmmmmmm'... so I got out the crank and weighed that too. Outcome of that was 17.2KG (reground crank .25). So far then, a bare block, crank and head weigh 67.2 KG's.
UPDATE
I got given a number of a local powder coater in the area by the chaps at the bodyshop, and funnily enough the same place was recommended by my mate, so I called them up and took the cam cover to them. After a little chat and looking at colour samples, I decided to go a matt black as it will suit the colour scheme on the bay. That should be ready by early next week.
Dunno about everyone else but down here in London it feels like summer again! 27 degrees and sunny. Ended up going through boxes of engine bits and came across the alternator brackets looking sorry.
https://images2.imgbox.com/30/ef/sfOc2I2q_o.jpg
Gave them the usual clean...
https://images2.imgbox.com/2c/75/kU6G336e_o.jpg
Then a few coats of the usual colour paint...
https://images2.imgbox.com/65/93/Rirj2xel_o.jpg
and the bottom bracket. This was already silver when it came with the engine but it had flaked and needed a re-coat
https://images2.imgbox.com/b1/e1/DRVfdATK_o.jpg
Really enjoy reading this thread mate, alot of effort and work going into it. Abit at a time but im sure it will all pay off in the end, keep the progress and pics coming!
Thanks Josh. Before I started the project I never would have thought it would take this long, but that's life. I'd much rather get things done a bit at a time just to make sure thigns get done well. Not great for the thread, but in the end when all these little bits get put together it'll then show how worth while it was doing it.
:thumb:
Does anybodys project ever meet its deadline?? Haha! I agree, you might aswell get it right the first time and enjoy it, plus with every part cleaned and painted before it goes back on its going to make it a damn sight easier to work on and maintain.
Still one thing I'm dreading doing/seeing is the engine bay in a years time looking grimey. Hopefully doing all that I'm doing now will minimise it :)
UPDATE
Work has taken over as I'm covering two collegues that aren't well so haven't been able to do anything in the past week. However today I come acorss something that should come in real handy...
https://images2.imgbox.com/55/bb/hAQ5kon1_o.jpg
http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/5236/1002761q.jpg
Comes with these included as well as a battery charger, battery, bits and a 3 year warranty lol
https://images2.imgbox.com/5b/47/oG8m365G_o.jpg
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/7889/1002762w.jpg
Not bad for £19.99!
UPDATE
Finally a day off after working 8 straight days :( Didn't get much done today but did go an pick up my rocker cover form the powder coaters
https://images2.imgbox.com/ea/56/wV5kNXeQ_o.jpg
http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/7526/1002765u.jpg
A couple areas weren't perfect but that was down to the way the rocker cover was cast. Still looks miles better than before in it's original condition.
Still need to order internals... really haven't had time due to work.
UPDATE
Inundated with work, again covering other colleagues and I'm absolutely fu*king knackered! And to top it off I'm getting a head cold so I feel shi*ty.
Haven't done anything this week, have a day off tomorrow so as long as I feel ok I might make a start on cleaning up the pistons... great excuse to use the little Dremmel type tool I got recently. I did however get this the other day
http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/1530/0000167o.jpg
£11 for 4L - I'd say that's a good price seeing as Vaux charge £16 on trade for 5L of GM 5 year anti-freeze/coolant.
UPDATE
The Nova, for the time being, has been put on the back burner so to speak. Work is hectic with me covering quite a few shifts and the Cav project has taken priority as it's just about done. Once the Cav is sorted then there will be quite a bit of garage space that will be freed up allowing me to do more work on it.
I've still been trying to gather parts for it and have managed to get this part ticked off the 'want' list
https://images2.imgbox.com/83/a7/Y9QLDIo4_o.jpg
http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/2497/1002788s.jpg
It's in great condition, bordering mint! Thought I'd never find one that's not been cut or isn't scratched up etc.
Waiting for payday to arrive so I can start getting internals.
UPDATE
Wow! Last update was 2 months ago... where the hell does time go? I've spent any recent days off sorting out the Cavalier and with not much time or cash available, I haven't concentrated much on the Nova.
On Tuesday though I called up Autovaux and after a few minutes I had ordered some internals. As I ordered a bit late Tuesday afternoon, I was told they'd be with me Thursday... they didn't arrive!
Come home from work today and they still weren't here. As I was digging into dinner at 8pm I heard the door go and someone say "there's an odd man on our drive that's walking around the cars!!!" Rushed outside to see some guy going round to the side of the garage... it was the courier!
Ripped open the long box to find some goodies
Headbolts
https://images2.imgbox.com/33/69/ZAKw0Jmy_o.jpg
Gaskets and seals from the head set
https://images2.imgbox.com/6c/1c/oYbmVMem_o.jpg
Manifold gaskets
https://images2.imgbox.com/fd/c7/NybL2g9c_o.jpg
Head gasket
https://images2.imgbox.com/6d/53/UxtGqpa6_o.jpg
4x piston ring set with the rings individually packaged mmm
https://images2.imgbox.com/bb/33/a9zdd4mw_o.jpg
Bearings
https://images2.imgbox.com/b6/13/a7guNbqj_o.jpg
Main bearings
https://images2.imgbox.com/8a/bb/34e50XAf_o.jpg
All in all £180 spent including delivery.
Now comes the question I ask myself... should I:
a) just undertake the vast majority of it myself and risk it taking another x amount of months,
or
b) speak to a couple people I know and trust (actual mechanics) who could probably get it sorted in a week, therefore allowing me to drive and enjoy the Nova much sooner but inevitably spend a bit more money?
At last an update, I thought you'd sent this off to cash4gold lol
Glad your still keeping going slowly but surely though, should be a cracker once completed ;)
I didn't even realise that it had been 2 months since the last update lol
Won't give up... I have to finish it!