The outer shaft needs to be shortened. Cant remember by how much tho..Quote:
Originally Posted by kevster
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The outer shaft needs to be shortened. Cant remember by how much tho..Quote:
Originally Posted by kevster
Oh right thanks Ben , will have to look into it .
Thanks again
Great work Nick :D
Hopefully see it at Billing :)
Thanks Si Im quite confident we'll be their as usual.Quote:
Originally Posted by SRimon
Im sure hope It isnt!Quote:
Originally Posted by 7ova
I thought you may like them!Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTIN KELSON
Cheers dude!Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
You'll see that soon enough John.....Quote:
Originally Posted by John
The only shaft you'll use is the intermediate/dummy Kev Id buy a pair of David dixons off ebay and make life easy for yourself fella.Quote:
Originally Posted by kevster
Nick.
Interesting, a build worth watching! what engine are you going for?
Todays update then.........
With all the work that went into detailing the body I really wanted to paint as little as possible to keep the originality of the car and due to the fact my time was very limited over the past few months. But one thing I did want to do was sort the small amount of corrosion on the rear arch lips and repair the bodge work someone had done on the tailgate. So a short while back the nova went to work........
Stands under the beam with wheels ready for coming off.....
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k2...bowip011-5.jpg
Perfect rear panel........
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k2...bowip012-5.jpg
Then a little stripping and I cut back the area's we were looking to replace........
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k2...bowip016-4.jpg
By the time all the paint was removed you can see their is very little corrosion but I wanted it gone for good so replacement is the only way.......
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k2...bowip017-4.jpg
The other side was very similar however the corrosion was lower down the wheel arch. My foreman arrived soon after and cracked straight on cutting out as smaller area as possible and welding in the new arches........
N/S arch welded in and ground back.......
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k2...bowip019-4.jpg
Followed by the O/S.........
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k2...bowip022-3.jpg
Like the last project the inner return lip has been removed so Its effectively a single skin lower down the quarter. To get some strength back in this area and to give more clearance the lips have been rolled over. But before this happened a metal to metal bonder was applied inside so once the lips were rolled back on themselves inbetween the two surfaces is the bonder that will glue the lip back on itself.
Lips rolled and tapered off at either end for a factory look.......
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k2...g?t=1336126019
As you can see we've fitted as little as possible fresh metal which in my opinion is the way forward when fitting nova arches as you want to also keep the filler work to the flat part of the arches making it much easier to level up perfectly.
On to the filler work then........
O/S arch complete........
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k2...bowip026-4.jpg
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k2...bowip027-3.jpg
N/S arch finished.........
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k2...bowip029-4.jpg
Along the sills were a couple of chips that had slightly started to spider so these areas were sanded to bare metal to be found perfect underneath........
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k2...bowip028-4.jpg
As you'll have read previously the tailagate needed repairing too so that was also sorted whilst filler was going into the arches....
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k2...bowip024-4.jpg
Car prepared and masked for primer.........
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k2...bowip034-4.jpg
As I mentioned earlier the filler work has been kept to the flat area of the arch below the first swage line. Once primed It leaves you with a lovely flat area to block at which gives you a great chance in getting the surface 100% level and making the new arches invisible which is what were after.
Nick.
Once in the booth stands were back under the rear for easier access and the car was bagged up/masked and degreased ready for etching then high build primering. Foam edge tape was used along edges to keep the primered areas as small as possible and also to stop primer getting on areas I didnt want it........
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k2...bowip038-4.jpg
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k2...bowip039-4.jpg
And a few primed up/guidecoated shots..........
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k2...bowip041-4.jpg
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k2...bowip043-4.jpg
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k2...bowip040-4.jpg
Once the foam tape is removed you can see primer hasnt managed to get into these areas which means you can keep the topcoats contained easier on specific edges giving a much better overall finish once the job is complete.
The morning after the arch lips/sills were scotched and an overpaintable stone guard applied. Ive taken this right up to edge of the sill which is further than the factory area but will give much better protection for the future..........
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k2...bowip045-4.jpg
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k2...bowip047-4.jpg
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k2...bowip049-4.jpg
This type of stoneguard is oil based so it doesnt matter if you get it on areas you dont want to as it washes off with solvent cleaner. I find it much better than gravitex/graviguard as its a lot thicker and has a rubberised texture to it which will be better for reflecting the areas that are going to get battered with stone chipping etc. Thats it for today chaps I hope you enjoyed the read!
Nick.
Awesome work as usual! Will be a minter when its done!
I'm in awe! Would love to have the skills to do stuff like this!
Great great stuff. It seems only your thread now gets my nova heartbeat going!