My Nova 16v Project

Be careful Olly that design of top mount has the circlip on the wrong side for running that way up. Bit shocked at the butchery! You can get alloy eccentrics for novas that run the way up you want without the need to cut anything and will give you all the adjustment you'll ever need.

Dialing those in that much will give about 5º- by the looks of it and a handful in a straight line ;o

If you speak to Leda they should be able to hook you up with the nuts I described dawg :)

filing Knuckles is the last thing you want to do (even if it has it in the Haynes manual :o ) you get miles more adjustment doing it with the nuts plus the peace of mind reliability wise too.

lol @ the top mount conversation again, I've only ever ran them this way up with no problems whatsoever, along with plenty of other track orientated cars that I know of...
12 trackdays later, 3 Sprints, TOTB, Quarter miling and plenty of very hard road miles later they're fine.

Hybrid - they are 'face up' ones, as you describe. :confused:

Simon, I have a camber & castor gauge, and running them like that is -3°, and I've previously ever run -2°. So its nothing like -5°. :)

you could get the struts machined to be like this

http://shutter15.pictures.aol.com/da...VT4Hkn0300.jpg

So just by enlarging the top hole you mean?

Machining the back of the knuckles on the hubs is so they don't foul the shock body itself, so not sure why you said "its the last thing you wanna do"...

well, if your happy with the whole of your suspension pushing on a circlip, then cool, but they are not designed to be run that way, and i bet if you ask whoever made them they would not be telling you it'll be fine
and no, i dont agree that just because you've had no problems so far it will be fine
i know you will see this as a dig, but its not, just some friendly advice, and as you are modding the turret at the mo anyways, why not fit them as they are intended?
but as ever, its not my car, so not my decision :beer:

I say it's the last thing you want to do because you introduce an element open to play should the bolts not be squeezing the strut bottom to it enough.

If you don't machine them out exactly the same (combined with less reference to strut angle inherent of doing this) then you might find getting each side exactly the same quite difficult.

Didn't read it as a dig Lee :thumb: as I know you're only offering friendly advice/ constructve critism, tis whats forums are for! :) totally understand the advice, and I will have a look to see how much more of the turret needs to be removed for me to flip them :thumb:

Simon - not sure if you understand what I meant I was doing, regarding the machining, I meant I am elongating the bottom hole inwards, and the top hole outwards... once I have the clearence from the leg itself, I will then weld a washer around the hole so they cannot move anymore.

I would do the measurements to the side of the bracket on all 8 holes (4 holes per leg, 2 holes per side), to ensure they're the same. ie: top hole 4mm from edge of bracket, bottom hole, 16mm inwards from top of bracket etc...

Once they're set, and I've welded a washer to prevent them from moving (as this is purely for clearence problems) then I still have my RJ TCA and my Ecc TM to get the desired camber I want to be running :thumb:

The hub knuckles themselves, again, thats only to enable me to push the lower hub knuckle further towards the shock... the top one is staying untouched as I'm pulling that one away :)

Much clearer Olly are you making a trip to the machine shop tomorrow?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by trackdaynova

Hybrid - they are 'face up' ones, as you describe. :confused:

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Edit: Yeh you have got the "top up" ones but their still upside down so your not using them to their advantage

Who's got the GTI-6? Very smart person :D I spy with my little eye :D