Thought you'd of tried to get a cleaner shell?
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Thought you'd of tried to get a cleaner shell?
Weirdly, this one is completely rust free in all the right places!! The front turrets are solid, the rear chassis legs are solid, the rear inner arches are also solid, one outer arch is solid, the other is just starting to crust away.Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
This
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...B9966AE6B4.jpg
Is all the result of a poor battery tray repair, Ben seems happy enough with what he's got to work with, pronouncing it "solid in all the right places"
It'll be alright!! wire wheel and a some kurust and she'll be right!!!
Doesnt seem too bad that, makes me realise how good the shell i have is, and also how good the last shell i had was too before i moved it on though.
Fongers crossed my 'plan' comes about and project 'fibreglass shell' will end up in the making. Id only ever have to worry about rot on the first half of the floor pan, the bulkhead, and inner wings then.
Bought not built what a waste of money. You suck!
The shell I have now is rust free, however the roof skin replacement is beginning to annoy me, half cage is rubbish, I can't be bothered to cut the cage out and put a new one in. It's easier to start again and try and get it as right as possible from the startQuote:
Originally Posted by Mxcrazy
I know, don't worry though I've got 1000's to throw at it!!Quote:
Originally Posted by turbojolt
On to today, I didn't think it was hot enough, so I fired up the grinder and welder to play around with this.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...552C1C5A51.jpg
It's a nice .5 litre catch can but it's got M16x1.5 inlets allowing me to use AN8 fittings as shown earlier for my breather system.
First up, something to mount it on
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...33C0F3A022.jpg
Then adjust the hose that used to go direct to atmosphere to meet up with inlet 1, Then hose 2, the outlet with a nice 90 degree on it down to atmosphere
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...F7620F1333.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...69D65BB06F.jpg
Find somewhere nice for the outlet to sit, will run to the rear of the car once the new shell is done, to keep it away from any tyres!!!
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...D953404C55.jpg
Happy enough with that, decent progression from what it used to be, all part of the fun!!
Ah ok over the rust and nice tidy job with the catch tank.
I love the oil lines unions etc. Look proper. That will have to go on the new engine.
tidy work mate, looking good.
Yep, all a mock up now for the new shellQuote:
Originally Posted by Iain
Thanks mate, not as tidy as yours!!Quote:
Originally Posted by tb16v
4 wheel alignment and slick slick fitment ready for Bedford on 1st August!!
Passat needs a clutch too, started slipping whilst towing the trailer on the way home from Billing!! Ball bags!!
Nothing too exciting this week, been busy working at Next in Doncaster, lovely job!!!!!
Got this ordered as since fitting the new seat I wasn't happy with the steering wheel being so far away
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...4B5DD17230.jpg
It's a 35mm spacer, could probably have done with a 50 or even a 60 but it feels so much better than before.
Without having to take the dash out to weld braces in to the column mounts I added these little fellas that I had in the gash box.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...02E01FDC68.jpg
New shell will have a completely custom column so this has become a test bed for wheel position, the Tilton floor mount pedal box will be on an adjustable plate to allow for some tinkering, but I'm really happy with how far away from the seat the pedals and wheel are at present so will try to replicate that with some adjustment.
Shamelessly stole this from Dar (with his permission), after ordering one batch too big I got the second lot spot on.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...3E8674B1DB.jpg
Bit of a pain to bend but looks trick!!
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...8558BC1A38.jpg
Quick trip to the chippy to check it was working!!
Also got my new, second hand, Michy slicks fitted to the new set of Cesaros I picked up Friday, they along with the orange ones will be off for powder coat soon.
Whilst removing the 888's I noticed the rears were "rolling the tread" (can't think of a better way to describe it) on half the inside of both wheels, it seems that the inner half of the tyre is barely in contact with the track, after speaking to those that know, we need more rear camber. Cue some Eibach rear camber adjusters on order!!
Hoping for 4 wheel alignment Saturday morning, then Bedford Monday, first time out on slick slick.
Oh and on a side note, golden flecks in this evening's oil change!!! Poor old girl is starting to have had enough!!!!
Can't you get more rear camber with a bunch of penny washers on the stub axel. Ghetto vw style
What's up with normal spilt pins?
We all know that Mr House, as a dedicated member of Team Shonky, just loves to get his hands dirty and change the odd hub or driveshaft/CV on their track day outings. This little tweek save oh seconds, also it looks cool....Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
As for the new shell, it is going to be interesting to see just how much corrosion is hiding under the underseal, anyone running a sweepstake on just how bad it will be lol
Nothing at all, just another thing to forget to put in the track-day box!! Plus the SS pins are actually lighter!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
You know me Mr Tall, every millisecond counts!! When you spend aslong as we do in the pits, anything you can do to reduce that time helps!!Quote:
Originally Posted by TallDave
As for the new shell, to be fair, we poked, prodded and peeled a fair bit of underseal at Craig's unit and uncovered most of the worst of it.
As for the sweepstake, I'll put £10 in that it costs me 3 more days work!!!
Err sneaking this one in under the radar, go on then just which one of the Tilton units are you going for, quite fancy the underfoot cylinder version myself...Quote:
Originally Posted by House1983
Remember the coversation about dry sumping that was had ten pages or so back? Might be time to reconsider that one before the shell prep gets going full steam, might be a good idea to notch out the off side chassis rail to make room for it, afterall it won't cost too much more than the Tilton pedal box (complete with all its the ancillary schizzle)...:dQuote:
Originally Posted by House1983
As for having a contingency of three days pay for the shell prep, just how much are you earning...:eek:
The 600 series as Craig has, with stubby cylinders, I looked at the reverse pedal box but we're concerned it'll add too much height, we might look again, see how it all looks.Quote:
Originally Posted by TallDave
I remember said convo!! I need to have a think, engine wont be going in for a while, so I've still got time, chassis rail cut out is doable.
As for my daily earinings................... ;););)
Looks like the smallblock is coming to play with team Shonky on Monday ,does this mean I will qualify for a team Shonky sticker
I'll bring a sticker but you need a mechanical failure to earn it!
I'm a little concerned about drive by noise testing at bedford. Hopefully we'll be ok.
This is real news!!!! Can't wait!!Quote:
Originally Posted by toymex
I'm sure if today is anything to go by the mechanical failure will not be a problem ,my exhaust will be fine ,I'm hoping my airbox will keep the induction down ,does anybody know where the meters are 😀Quote:
Originally Posted by Iain
Hopefully be a good day ,will have to grab a passenger ride with you and Iain , I want to see what a nova with torque feels like ��Quote:
Originally Posted by House1983
no drama, I'll get the belts back in!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by toymex
Well, good Saturday afternoon to everyone!!!
Few bits of action today.
Split pins replaced with an idea most shamelessly stolen from Dar!!
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...731AED0FAC.jpg
So off to the local 4 wheel alignment place SE Tyres in Tunbridge Wells, up on the ramps, we all know the drill!!
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...F8FD685970.jpg
All setup, calibrated then caster, balls bags too low, quick fix
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...F019190AC0.jpg
I knew that the removable front bumper would come in useful and after everyone said it was pointless!!!!!
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...0D2FA8C150.jpg
WOW, we've got issues!!!!!!
Alas, it was the left rear wheel sensor, it had dropped off the wheel, cos I took it with the 888's on it wasn't easy for the clamps to hold on, next time I'll need to take it on the rainsports, it'll help the clamps grip.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...5EBBCEB384.jpg
With some cable ties helping the clamps hold the gauge on, BOOM, we had some figures to work with
Quite pleased with the camber and castor, I simply set the bottom arms and tie bars to exactly the same length when I fitted, shell must be reasonably straight!!
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...7769B0038E.jpg
Rather happy with the results, I know I could get more, I know it's not the best setup ever, but it feels really good and the max adjustment possible, whilst for some is amazing it possibly isn't the best set-up for me so, we're gonna see how this gets on!!
When I got home I had a look at the rear camber.
It's quite easy to fit the spacers, you look at the chart and see what you want to do.
in my case, rear left needed 0°.33' of camber and 0° toe in adjustment, found that on the chart and set the disc accordingly, punched the holes out, Robert's your fathers uncle.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...22FDBF0E7B.jpg
Rear right needed a little more thinking about to try and match it to the rear left.
I needed to get camber from -0°.37' to -1°.45' or as close as possible, an addition of 1°.08' of negative camber.
Toe needed to go from 0°.15 to 0°.12 or as close as possible, a subtraction of 0°.03' of positive toe/toe in.
So looking at the sheet, I could add 1°.06 of negative camber getting me to 1°.43' of negative camber and I could add 0°.04' of negative toe which should get me to 0°.11' of poositive toe/toe in.
All bolted in, bolts torqued to 15% over specs as per Haynes manual and instructions from the spacers.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...24535B24F8.jpg
There we have it, just need to pop back to get it on the machine again to check we've gone the right way
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...37E6701F25.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...62C8792669.jpg
Sure looks better, next up, secondary rear ARB and some rear beam bracing to prevent un-wanted toe.
Bedford Monday!!!!!
Edit to add
Had fun on the 888's in a torrential downpour, biblical downpour!!
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...76E21C5ECE.jpg
So.................
Today we went to Bedford Autodrome GT Circuit. Massive track 3.8 miles!!!
Busy 88 cars signed on!!
Lots of road cars out for a fun day
Slicks were awesome, suspension settings near perfect, tyre temps were good, camber was near perfect, brake were crap.
Alcons maybe...................
That is all.
Happy for you, any Nova being used in anger is fine by me. My geo is quite different to your's but it's all personal preference.
What callipers, discs and pads are you using?
What are you running now?Quote:
Originally Posted by House
Until this year, Ive used ATE 16v calipers with good pads and 285mm discs and with a bias box theyre very good. Ive now gone to APs on the same one-piece disks but for track use, the older setup would have been very good anyway.
Paul..
Thanks Craig, I was having a lot of problems getting the power down out of the low speed corner, especially when turning left, not sure why, Iain reported the same. So I don't know if that's a setup issue or the slicks being off.Quote:
Originally Posted by 8valve-craig
As for brakes, hi-spec show calipers!! From their billet 4 range, with some sort of re-drilled ford cossie disc and CL RC6 pads.
what specifically about the brakes was "crap"?
RC6's are epic so thats not the problem lol
They worked early on, pedal travel got progressively more the hotter they got, at high speed the wheel wobble when braking was atrocious, when looking closer at the calipers, the pads have again worn at the top more than the bottom so they're now heavily angled almost like the top piston pushes more than the bottom.
The passenger side when looked at with the wheels off and the pedal pumped was flexing the disc and pushing it out, so it's almost like the outside set of Pistons weren't applying pressure to the disc, this would explain the wobble.
The passenger side is also the caliper that took all the heat when the wheel failed at Mallory so that may have knackered it.
Bottom line is I'm discovering that Hi-Spec for show, Alcon/AP for go, or stop in this case!!
Lo-Spec calipers are most definately NOT for use, at all :(
What may have happened is the fluid boiled (RC6's do dump heat into the caliper savagely) and either nailed the seals or caused a localised bubbly area so the inner pistons did their job and the outers didnt.
Also sounds like the discs may have uneven transfer layer now :(
for the "cheaps" test (becuase you spend too much :p ) you could lob on some 288's or something similar with RC5 or 6 pads (or even Mintex 1155's) then try again.
I use the same discs - 285mm redrilled Cossie disks although I had a machine shop to do mine from std ones
Assuming those discs arent warped then a proper clean up / light skim will work on them.
Use spacer brackets to mount the ATE calipers at 285mm instead of 256mm (or use V6 calipers with a spacer to inboard them a bit but those are heavier) then decent pads and decent fluid - Ive used all sorts but Motul RBF600 or RBF660 are both good.
I use Mintex F4R pads which are very good. I didnt get on with DS3000s as they didnt take the heat and started smoking badly.
Paul..
Loving all the camber and toe fun. That photo makes it look like you still have alot tho, Or is that what you wanted.
Track day work sounds great.
I have exactly the same issues ,along with a few people I race with ,I wonder if the floor mounted box contributes. My fellow races swear by using the wilwood residual pressure valves , I haven't tried them myself but will if a proper bleeding session doesn't resolve the issue .As an aside it happened with both cheap Compbrake calipers and an AP caliper !
You can't get even faster as that will just embarrass Iain more .It was good to meet you boys yesterday ,you two have got it sorted and seem to have a right good laugh !
Benn, I was trying to achieve 1.5 degrees on the rear, and even the toe out a bit which is what I've achieved I think!!
Mr Mex, as you know great to meet you and the big fella, and then watch you dissapear into the distance on cold tyres!!! I'm gonna need a bigger boat!!!
It's all about having a laugh, nothing too serious, Iain is a bit upset that I seemed to be able to maintain a gap in front of him!! I haven't got the heart to tell him I was lifting and coasting a lot and I weigh 40 kilos more than him!! Hahaha
Ah ok, And you did it better than i did, i used shims.
So, my videos a gash, need to sort something with the camera, can only see action in the car!!
Just a random lap, mostly happy to see I keep my hands at 9-3 on the wheel at almost all times and you can see my feet on the pedals through the gap on the seat and my terrible attempts at heel and toe!!!
https://youtu.be/mge-81d7RXY
I would say your brake issue lays mostly with the Calipers, we ran the same on the Corsa at Bedford funnily enough and Ben will tell you how much of a pain they were. We then went onto the Alcons but had to mess about with modded bells and brackets so they would fit but those now combined with the hockly pedal box and AP cylinders had been fine until her last outing.
The RS4-2 started to pickup on the rotors causing a heavy vibration so I've had the rotors skimmed and switched to a rs29 pad, I'll add some brake cooling as I've now painted the discs with temp paint and I expect they're generally just getting too hot as its quite fast on full power and it's not that light really.
I use performance friction 665 fluid in everything these days and I do highly rate the rs29 pad tbh. One thing I have been warned of is changing pad type without skimming the discs, that can also cause all manner of issues.
I had this kit done last year as a substitute for the Alcons. There are other Caliper options now but that's quite a good size Caliper and does fit inside a MO
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psflalcf6c.jpg
Thanks for the input Mr J, Iain, Ben, Craig, Paul and I have discussed it, there are several routes to try.
ATE calipers with spacer brackets 283 discs and Frodo or CL pads £100-150 - less braking but maybe more reliable,
Recon current hi spec road calipers £200-250 - evidently not up to the job
Try hi-specs track calipers £400 - better spec, leading and trailing pistons, external link pipes, look a better caliper
Purchase a set of Alcons or AP's £1800-2000 including brackets, then hope they fit without too much mucking around
It's all a bit of guesswork really, I'd be happy with 15% less braking but knowing it was there 100% of the time.
I'm not sure I can justify the Alcons or AP's just yet, I love spending money but it's a lot, I think I'll possibly try the Hi-spec track caliper, my reasoning, I've to spend £250 getting my current calipers re-furbed and fixed, the passenger caliper body will be written off after the wheel fiasco at Mallory it is rather damaged, so essentially the track calipers will only be £150 to try and I'll bin off the road spec ones. If I still have no joy then I'm going to have to bite the bullet on some Alcons.
One thing we are changing is a switch to rear discs and moving the brake balance back to maybe try 25% braking on the rear, at the moment we're pretty much fully forward, which isn't helping.
I wouldn't advise buying another set of hi specs, that really is false economy. The Alcon AP route is expensive but worthwhile but for now just work with what you have.
Why have you got the brakes biased so far forward? If the fronts are doing all the work you will over heat them and suffer plenty of issues.
lospec for a reason graham.....