its a sprint car, does the weather seal really matter lol imo riviting looks much more hard core lolQuote:
Originally Posted by novarally
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its a sprint car, does the weather seal really matter lol imo riviting looks much more hard core lolQuote:
Originally Posted by novarally
It's a piece of history that Mini, but it's got to go, I've got way too many toys, and no money in the Bank!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
I have been talking to Jon at Cambridge Motorsport (a couple of weeks back), and he confirmed that the OE starter at 2.7kg was the lightest available. It was him who put me onto the lithium battery I got hold of that saved 4kg, he's a great source of knowledge.Quote:
Originally Posted by MK999
Just read through nearly all of this thread Colin!
Top work mate this car is awsome be good to see it finished!
p.s you must have some serious money ;) lol
Ah fair enough, the starters do seem to be for fairly hefty engines.Quote:
Originally Posted by novarally
cant help but like the aladins cave of retro motorsport bits and cars lying about at your place col
That widearch kit is mental, you should of used that with those compotive split rims you had.
Any news on posting that widearch kit AlanH payed for yet ? its still on the black car in those photos :(
That seat's gonna retail at around the four figure sum alone under that brand...
VERY interested in your findings about that battery, I'm going through lead batteries at an alarming rate atm because I can't full isolate them for 9-10hrs per day like they should be when not being run. I dunno if you'll be able to give a suitable evaluation though as this will only be used in the hill climber every so often?
I doubt I'll be able to give you any useful feedback. Mine gets used for a day of very short races, then goes back in the workshop with the battery on charge.Quote:
Originally Posted by BRoadGhost
Did a very quick mock up of the new fibreglass door skin on the passenger side;
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/002-32.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/003-35.jpg
It fits pretty well, I shall put it on quick release pins so it can be completely removed when necessary. If I need to get out of the car in a hurry on that side, it will get kicked off!
colin, if you needed to get out that quick, i doubt if the door will still be there anyway.....any rules on drivers door as in stock hinges/catches etc??? or metal skin?
Door material is free, and there are no specific rules laid down for hinges/catches. But on the drivers side it's going to have to be conventionally hinged I think.Quote:
Originally Posted by mowgli
slap both doors on quick then.....
soon you'll run out of stuff to strip.....
did you hear the story of the skoda rally cars, where they did all they could to lighten them, then kept sticking the shells thru the factory acid bath to thin all the metal down..? they had lots of time & ideas, but no money to do it with.
until colin thrashes the car so much that the rivets come loose.Quote:
Originally Posted by burgo
normally people rivet and bond so the rivets dont rattle.
Loving the updates Colin, and how many dam cars you got at your place? lol Ive counted two xr2i's in with all your novas now..
As for the wide kit if you don't use it it may be of use to Steve on his 4x4 nova?
Scott
decent bonding agents don't need rivets.. the rivets will induce cracks & cause things to fail.Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw156
I've got a very nice spec. XR2i circuit race car which I bought and plan to do a few track days with. I also have a spare XR2i race car rolling shell, an XR2i Zetec 16v and an RS Turbo Fiesta. So it's actually 4 of them, not 2!Quote:
Originally Posted by scott.parker
Don't ask me why.......they were cheap and I couldn't say 'no'.
Steve did say the wide arch kit might be of interest to him.
Is the wide arch kit a one off then? You should be getting moulds made Colin.
Very nice btw, will it be getting sprayed a new colour then?
ha true petrol head car addition lolQuote:
Originally Posted by novarally
No updates (yet), but a plea for some parts I need...........cash is waiting if anyone can sell me;
Mk.1 front bumper with snowplough front spoiler
Pair of Mk.1 headlamp protectors
Thanks!
Wide arch kit is a one off, iirc colin got molds with it :) The kit came off my boss's brothers old stock nova. Nova acually got cut up and made into a trailor when he started his fencing company lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Southie
Colin, you said a few pages back you will use 2mm perspex. I thought there was a requirement that perspex windows must be no less than 6mm.
I may be wrong or working to differant regs which is hy i ask.
I know people who use 4mm and its pretty bendy, specialy on the boot. 2mm is hell of a thin.
Edit: I noticed polycarbonate, is that much stronger than perspex, thus, why you can use 2mm?
Didn't think you were aloud to use perspex, we aren't in rallying as it shatters into big sharp shards. Its plexiglass that they use a flexable plastic.
Perspex is a generic term, and not really relevant these days. My windows are Lexan (polycarbonate).Quote:
Originally Posted by therealnovaboy
For rallying I believe you need to use 4mm polycarbonate as a minimum, but for hillclimbs and sprints there are no such stipulations, so I can use as thin a material as I want.
cling film???lol
Small update only, as I'm still waiting for the new turbo to be fitted over at BTEC Racing.
I've found nearly a 2kg weight saving from the starter motor which will be replaced when I get the car back.
Old starter motor;
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/002-33.jpg
'New' starter motor;
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/003-36.jpg
I now have another wide arch kit, which is more suited to my plans than the hugely wide Hot Rod kit that I acquired recently;
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/004-30.jpg
And I also have a CO2 intercooler spray kit which I plan to experiment with to reduce intake temperatures;
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/006-26.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/007-20.jpg
If it works, the tank will have to be replaced with something small and lightweight, as this is a huge 10lb tank, which is totally wrong for this car!
The straight cut gearbox I got hold of has finally been inspected by my gearbox man, who tells me that the baulk rings are knackered, and the CWP isn't too clever either. It's running a ZF plate LSD.
So I am now raiding the clusters out of some spare F10's I have,from which we will salvage the best baulk rings (mo longer available new apparently). And I will just change the complete cluster over, so I end up with a set of straight cut gears in there, and will retain my existing 4.5 CWP and the Quaife ATB LSD.
wow, quite crazy with the raiding old f10 'boxes lol
Looks good Colin. I didnt think there was much difference in weight in the starters lol
Would you not be better running the ZF plate LSD ?
I'm familiar with the ATB one, and it works well for what I'm doing. It would be nice to do some back to back testing at some stage though.Quote:
Originally Posted by fearless
intercooler kit looks heavy :eek: lol can you not just wind the boost up a tad for that bit more power? :p
Is there any more weight you could shave off the starter with a grinder?
Go for the Plate !! - Better traction out of the corners :thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by novarally
Quote:
Originally Posted by t45_ste
I was thinking the same - a few large holes in the 'nose' part of the starter wouldn't do any harm
It's actually really light - but only if you ignore the bottle! I'm sure there will be a lightweight bottle option available, bearing in mind CO2 is used in paintball applications.Quote:
Originally Posted by MK999
Certainly worth trying, free weight saving very welcome.Quote:
Originally Posted by t45_ste
http://cgi.ebay.com/Smart-Parts-Max-...item336462ba79
Forever finding them when searching for carbon bits lol
Bloody hell, 310 bar in that little thing! :eek:
Colin, have you thought about cutting some of the bits out that you arnt really supposed to, ie bit being the dash and the floor bars then thinning them with a grinder then spotting them back in?
Very interesting, thanks for that.Quote:
Originally Posted by t45_ste
I've just been browsing paintball tanks, and there are all sorts of them around.
Need to work out how much CO2 it will consume in a typical hillclimb or sprint run, and then decide if I want a tank which will need changing after every run, or one which will last the whole day.
This assumes that it works as I hope of course.......
http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost...ler_C20LET.htm
bit of interesting reading for you mate about half way down the page.
i ran nitrous and co2 through a spray bar on both my nova and the cav and to be honest mate save the weight and dont bother as co2 is near useless in comparison to nos and nos is silly dangerous to use as s cooler spray
You have got to remember your turbo is sucking in all that nitrous after it hits your cooler with no added fuel and dumping it in your engine!
and take it from someone that knows it will cause lean running when used and melted pistons
my cryo bar was rigged to my purge valve for the gas and when you spray the cooler with nos you get instant ice on the cooler which is great but for a few seconds after the engine would pic up a few rpm and the wide band would go nuts as it sucked in the nitrous thats in the area causeing lean conditions that the ecu couldnt enrichen enough to sort it
best thing i ever did was fan jets small washer bottle volswagen washer jet pump and a little methonol mixed with water
i had mine atached to my turbo smart boost controller so it sprayed the cooler when set presures were reached and it worked better and safer than what any gas style spray i have ever used or tryed
problem was pod got funny about me using it but that wont bother you
imho you will be better of safer and lighter using water spray
or better still and the best option available aqua mist water injection
when your over sat i will show you the washer jets ect i used to create a mist and the whole set up cost less than 10 quid and is miles better than the 130 quid cryo spray bar 1k worth of zex nitrous setup and spare bottle for co2 option was