I hope so, however to do 200mph I'll need to add another 2 gears to the box
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No idea how this is achieved, can you not just get a custom final drive like a 3.1?
I'll just send the box to SQS and have the extra gears installed, easy done.
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The most important part, the electronics, and some wiring products, full car loom will be mil-spec.
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44 rolls of Raychem spec-44 cable
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And this monstrous shiny thing is the charge cooler, ice water/dry ice reservoir and 2 huge Bell cores inside, looks like I won't be having a passenger then.
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Thats a hell of a lot of wire! looks like you've got everything planned out well already, is there any part of the car not figured out yet?
Erm, I suppose just putting it all together, got most of the parts just not sure how or where anything is going to be positioned.
Once the shell is home I'll do a dry build, I think I'll install a spare engine and see if I can get it up and running myself on the MoTec, it's something I want to learn anyway.
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Whoa totally blown away by this - will the engine be dry sump lubricated?
I love raychem cable and heat shrink, soooo damn flexible and crazy strong
It is seriously good stuff, DR-25 heat shrink, ridiculously priced, as is anything mil spec to be fair.
Yes I've got Pace dry sump kit but possibly changing for a Peterson system, I'm having a one off billet sump pan made which will
Incorporate a bottom end girdle for the engine, a bit more strength won't harm.
I'm also after a different style of dry sump pump, one which allows an auxiliary pump to be driven off the rear.
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I'm using a mechanical fuel pump from Aeromotive to keep up with fuel demand and also to minimise electrical circuits.
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Here you can see the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, a 100 micron filter for pre pump and a 40 micron filter for pre rail
Although I have just bought a 10 micron System One filter which I'll probably use pre fuel rails instead
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Fuel lines are Teflon coated and I'm using the following sizes
-12an from tank to pre pump filter
-12an from pre filter to pump
-10an from pump to post filter
-10an from post filter to fuel rail
-10an from rail to reg
-10an from reg to tank
May seem a bit big but those are specs from Aeromotive to prevent cavitation on the pump.
Fuel injectors I have 2 sets of ID2000 and a set of ID1000, I think initially I'll use 4x1000 & 4x2000's, as long as these cope with the quantity of ethanol , there's always the option of adding a 9th injector pre throttle body or pre turbo.
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Glad to see that cage gone, that was horrific!
that are some really nice parts!
what brand an fittings do you use?
(you've got an private message about that dry sump ;))
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I got a bunch of fittings from Torques, real nice stuff for the price however I've not tried using them yet and if there's any doubt to there quality or ability I'll be shooting a message over to Goodridge or Brown & Miller.
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All my fuel fittings are torques, never had a problem with any of them!!
Also used torques with my old fuel lines no worrys at all .
That's good to know then.
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The screwed fittings are pretty on a tuning car, but on a real race car better use pressed lines.
What wheel and tyre combination will you be using then heds? Getting grip will be fun I suspect ;)
Front tyres are Mickey Thompson ET Drag 26" tall 10" wide and mount on a 15x10 Schmidt th line, and the rears are 15x3.6" m&h.
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I've also got a set of Hoosier drag radial's Incase I need to drive to McDonalds [emoji6]
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Love the maccies wheels, get trays under the back wheels for some hand brake action lol
Alloys look good as a matching set, are they off the shelf like that or were they made for you...
This thing will be crazy when its done.
There 3 piece split rims so I can make them any width or offset I like by changing the barrels and lips.
It's a big old tyre to fit in a nova arch, just think how big a 17" wheel is on a nova, now imagine another 9" on top of that and that's not to mention the width [emoji47]
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Some trimming is required [emoji23]
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Just a thought but you might want to work out the time an then distance your gonna need to try an hit 200. As you might struggle to find somewhere long enough to even attempt it!
Thats a big ole rolling radius & rotational weight to spin up to speed.
Will you be using tyre warmers then if using road tyres as they'll need to be pretty sticky I reckon to keep you in a straight line.
I cant say Im planning on tyre warmers, a few test runs will get the tyres upto temp im more concerned about stability, im planning on making the rear wheels the same track as the front to help, instead of the common drag stance that see a much wider track at the front only.
Glad to see a proper thread for this rather than just on facebook, more updates needed!!
I havnt used the tapatalk app since it was rather poor, certainly much better now.
Want some head?
Possibly the best part of the car, and certainly the key to getting the figures I want, and definitely the most expensive part.
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From what I can find those right there are the very first set of +2mm valves for a z20.
Solid lifters, double valve springs, top secret seats, custom cams and port work
Manifold you can see here, big runner, 60mm wastegate priority, v-band real nice bit of kit
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Wastegate is Tial V60-D, specially designed to be used with a co2 controlled boost control system
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And the turbo is a GTX4202r, 1200hp capable
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Just a baby [emoji23]
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Very nice love the wastegate . Thats the next part to buy on my list
That turbo could suck him up whole!
What a fantastic project.....some beautiful parts being used......hope everything works out.....
Are you planning on gas aswell mate or just motor.
Shouldn't need the gas, I've got a couple of kits incase
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Only time I would need it would be to help it spool low down, but I'm looking into applications we're people have an injector firing fuel into the turbine compressor to do this, sounds crazy but it been done.
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Yea also seen that done . Was going to ask you is you had looked at piston ring end gap widths . My new motor has wossner pistons in it and been told by the lad whos rebuilding it for me that first ring is going to need altering .
What ballpark figure are you aiming at bhp wise then at the wheels?
More money then sense but fair play to you lol
Although you couldve brought an off the shelf 200mph capable car for circa 10k, put another 10k into the motor & 110% hit 200+