that could be as close as it gets. does it run?
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that could be as close as it gets. does it run?
^ +1 :)
As I said earlier, yes is does sort of, but it does not sound to good, and so I have not let it run for long, and I have not run it since I got it down to a tooth away.Quote:
Originally Posted by mowgli
You say that might be as close as it gets, but is that any good? Will it run properly, or good it damage the engine?
In your experience what could cause this and can it be put right, even if she has to buy some new parts (no not a new engine Stevelol)
Cheers
Mike
please take some pics of the top & bottom pulleys showing their timing. then we can make a better diagnosis.
what a good idea :)Quote:
Originally Posted by mowgli
just a thought it will sound rough for a bit until the new lifters fill up with oil does it sound like its knocking or missing a beat?
Here we are Mowgli, sorry about the state of the photo's. By the way the bottom pointer and notch are spot on, it's just the angle I took the photo at.Quote:
Originally Posted by mowgli
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/a...1188-1-1-1.jpg[/IMG]
http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/a...DSCF1180-1.jpg
Here is the top notches and one thing I had not noticed it in the engine bay, is looking at the photo it looks like the back plate could have moved, hence the reason that the two notch's are off, but I have not moved it or taken it off. I'm going around her house later, but in the mean time can you tell me if the big centre bolt that holds this spocket on?
I hope that you guys can help
Cheers
no no
take the bottom altinator belt pulley off (the one in pic 1), you will then see a pointer on the bottom crank cog this should be at 6 o'clock more or less but there will be a mark the notch on the top pulley should be at 12 o'clock then fit the belt :) the top spocket does come off with the bolt but you should'nt need to.
the pointer in your first picture is the electronic timing mark and has nothing to do with the physical timing.
i laymans terms the top pulley will be slightly off 59 minutes on the clockface when the electronic pointer is lined up as in your pics, the spark occurs just after the piston passes TDC as its just starting its journey down the bore
clear as mud eh? :)
just looked at engine in my car, lined it up as in yours pictures and your prob only 1/2 maybe 3/4 of a tooth out
Clear as mud? you have got to be joking because I am well shot away now:(.
I have always set my timing with a strobe light shining at the bottom pointer and notch, and if they need to be adjusted I do this with the dizzy.
When you say that the cog should be at 6 o'clock and a marked notch at 12 o'clock, do you mean that they are both on the bottom cog?
If the notch/pointer combination are for electronic settings, what are the two notches up near the camshaft for?
I did my own cylinder head a few weeks and I set my timing by the two top notches and pointer/notch
Can you give me a step by step guide to setting it up?
Cheers
Mike
Whay hasnt anyone asked to see pics of the neighbour yet?? lol
1.i always use the bottom timing mark as in the pic for cambelt timing. but i'm thinking that this engine's head may have been skimmed a fair bit, which, when you think about it, will move the cam timing, because you can't actually skim a cambelt to match....
2.cambelts stretch, that doesn't look like a new one...
3. have you tried moving the cam pulley one tooth forward to see if it runs any better?
It would have to be skimmed a massive amount to affect timing that much!??
stranger things have been done to an engine before.... it might have been skimmed 6 or 8 times in its life.......or once badly.
I seriously doubt it,theres only so much you can take off them.
You will be saying someones skimmed the cam box to increase valve lift next......lol
yes your right with regards to spark timing :)
what needs to be done/checked is the timing between the crank and the cam.
i just took some pics but my phone cable is at home so i will post up later :)
unless someone can post some up earlier :)
nicked of migweb lol
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/w...tomline9zi.jpg
notice the pointer on the pulley above this needs to line up with the notch/mark/cutout whatevers on your engine see the little cutout just below the pointer? :)
the cam pulley below lines up with the notch on the back cover, its a painted mark on yours so line up with that assuming the back cover has not moved as you said earlier
http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/w...ketline5sd.jpg
this is the physical engine timing, now fit the belt :)
one this is done turn the engine over a few time by hand to check that the marks end up in the same place.
now replace the altinator pulley and start the engine, check spark timing with your strobe light and adjust with the dizzy
hope this helps mate :thumb:
lollollol oh yes forgot to say pic of this 'girl next door' ;)
this engine is so old, i don't think it has the bottom marker arrow like the later ones.
i've been ridiculing that particular myth for longer than i've had my views on head skimmingQuote:
Originally Posted by Andy
shame he's not local :) or i would have been round there by now and sorted it for him :)
It is a good un isnt it lolQuote:
Originally Posted by mowgli
i think it just needs a new cambelt (AND A WATER PUMP)
loads of people believe it though.....i think its cos the autograssers(etc) allow for skimming of the cam carrier in their regs.... if you skimmed enough of it, it would push the hyd tappets down a lot, and it might feasibly allow for more revs, but i can't see it happening much......so i think its more for getting a clean surface for resealing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy
Both the belt and pump are new, but I think that the belt has been in and out so many times it looks old.Quote:
Originally Posted by mowgli
What arrow is that?HTML Code:mowgli this engine is so old, i don't think it has the bottom marker arrow like the later ones.
Steve I have had the bottom sprocket off but there is no painted marks at all. How do I set it all up now?
Cheers
Mike
just put your bottom pulley back together & retime it to the pointer & notch. re time the top pulley, and when you come to put the belt back on, maybe try the notch one tooth to the right of where it is in the photo. then run it up.
Steve on removing the alternator/bottom sproket, I could not find any paint marks where someone has set the timing in the past, so have you any idea's how I am going to set it now with no reference to go by?Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve0011
As equally importent is how do I put the sprocket back on, because on my alternator pully there is a notch taken out and what I want to know is does this notch go over the raised bit just above the red circle in your first picture?
I have asked a mate who also has a nova, and he has always set what I call setting the timing and has never heard of the setting it underneath the alternator sprocket.
Thanks for your help guys, I will be forever in your debt if you get me out of this one:tard:
By the way do you use the timing light on this new sorce?
Cheers
Mike
BumpQuote:
Originally Posted by gunner1x1
im at a bit of a loss on this one :( can you post a pic of crank pulley? im away in 10 mins going camping and wont be back til sunday i could have a re-think then :)Quote:
Originally Posted by gunner1x1
steve
Ok Steve, have a great weekend.Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve0011
Cheers
Mike
I have just looked at the crankshaft pully under the alternator sproket on my nova and that dos'nt have any timing marks on it either.
Surely there must be a way of setting it up for the first time, or at least the first time after the factory set it?
Cheers
Mike
like i bluddy well said before..... use the notch & pointer off your alt pulley...then time it up at the top as before. then turn it over with the plugs out..... and then recheck the cam timing.....
as i also said before... the arrow on the crank pulley is a red herring on this age of car...
/\ listen to this man :)
Hey man carm down, I am trying to set the engine up using Steve's method and yours, but it is frustrating to know when one finishes and the other one starts especially when there are no marks on the bottom sproket Steve says the proper timing starts (hence the questions)'Quote:
Originally Posted by mowgli
I am grateful for the advice members have given me and I am trying to act on them. I also realise that it must be frustrating to give the same info out to god knows how many members. But just think how frustrating it is for those of us who do not know how to correct a problem.
If you care to answer another question
You wrote,
this engine is so old, i don't think it has the bottom marker arrow like the later ones.
What years are we talking about?
Cheers
Mike
gunner1x1...i am trying to maintain my calm but you keep asking the same question even though you have got the answer
using the pictures that were previously shown, you have a 1200 carb engine. thus its crank is timed up on the alternator pulley notch to the pointy thing.... what steve put was for a much later car & thus should be ignored.
i will go thru the method again from scratch as i would do it myself
1. fit the timing belt to the bottom pulley & then fit the alternator pulley over it. tighten the bolt. do this with the handbrake on & the car in gear.
2. make sure the car is on level ground, and let the handbrake off, but with the gearbox in top gear. you can now time the bottom pulley by slowly rolling the car forwards or backwards. when it is right, pull the handbrake on tight.
3. make sure the belt is fitted right on the bottom pulley then turn your attention to the top pulley. turn it with a spanner till the notch lines up with the backplate. as the backplate is located with only 2 bolts tot he cam carrier, if those 2 bolts are tight, the backplate is in the right place. when the cam pulley is correctly timed, pull of the 'front' side of the cambelt to take the slack out of it, and starting from the 'front' side, fit the belt to the pulley. if the pulley needs moving slightly to make it fit, then it should only need moving a couple of mm...
4. when you have the 'front' side sorted, turn your attention to the 'rear' side. you need to use the water pump to tension the belt. tension it so that the belt still has a few mm sideways stretch... making it tight as a drum will definitely break something in the future.
5. when the water pump bolts are tightened up, take it out of gear & with the plugs out, turn it over on the starter. then using the bolt on the crank pulley, turn it by hand till it is lined up on the pointer. then check the top pulley mark. it should be right.
6. if not, then keep doing 3,4 &5 until it is.
7. if you still can't time it up, there is something else up with the engine. i'm talking about something daft like its been over skimmed, or you forgot to put the head gasket in, which i don't actually think has happened, but it really takes something drastic to stop a 1.2 nova engine get timed up properly.
Thanks for the step by step guide. The trouble is I now have another problem. If you remember I said that although I got it started it was running and sounding really bad. So today I did a compression test and everyone read "ZERO" So what can I do now?
Cheers
Mike
If they all read zero you arent doing it correctly.
You will only get zero if you do a test on a head on your bedroom floor
Andy I am using one of those Gunson compression testersQuote:
Originally Posted by Andy
http://reviews.halfords.com/4028/603217/reviews.htm After removing the lead to the coil, I removed one plug at a time and turned the engine over (with the key). First of all when turning it over I did one full click of about 15 to 20 seconds, I then put the plug back in and removed the next one. When this did not work, I turned the key on and off, on and off, again for about 15 to 20 seconds but it still remaind on zero. Is this the right way to use it?
Cheers
Mike
Bump see above
Cheers
Mike