Certainly would mate. Would be interesting to see the standard factory LET IC. May have to make use of the extra space to the left of a 1.2 rad.
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Certainly would mate. Would be interesting to see the standard factory LET IC. May have to make use of the extra space to the left of a 1.2 rad.
Nice project mate cant believe ive missed this, looking forward to seeing the finished product :thumb:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nova_Tek
They are tiny. So any things good. The std one could be fitted over one side of the rad, like most peeps do with the oil cooler.
Just been trying to find a pic of a LET IC, no luck but I have come across a site which sells them. They have it down as 240mm x 128mm x 64mm.
I just drew it on an A4 piece of papaer and it's about 2/3 of an A4 sheet if that. Deffo tiny like you said mate. That leaves plenty of room. Just need to go have a look at A/C rads now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nova_Tek
thanks gunny, i am too.
this condenser is from an agila/wagon r. found it over on ebay, its only 37cm wide so pretty small. I presume you will be having the pipes made up for it?
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...88/7578_35.jpg
back to my project.
didnt do much today, test fitted my 7inch fan. does touch the IC bracket i made but isnt causing any harm. tried the bumper on again and it all still fits. phew. have got a 2nd to go on aswell.
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...8/DSC02454.jpg
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...8/DSC02455.jpg
onto the hoses from the turbo then, not 100percent happy with it but cant see how it can get any better. if im not happy when i put it back on when the engines built up again then ill consider sorting it out.
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...8/DSC02456.jpg
Now that all my mocking up is done i stripped it all down and put all my bits away tidy.:)
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...8/DSC02459.jpg
also took other small things off, such as the heater blower, wipers and linkage etc.
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...8/DSC02463.jpg
re-fitted my rose jointed linkage. is a tad stiff as its been stood for a few months. only thing im worried about is that when you put it in gear from inside the car and take it back out, it wont centralise again. is it only the gearbox that makes it come back central?? will have to lube up my rose joints again.
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...8/DSC02465.jpg
my one heater matrix outlet seems to come out right behind the inlet, is it ment to be like this? cant see how a hose would fit on with it like this.
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...8/DSC02458.jpg
anywho, i got bored so thought id tidy my garages up. they got mega messy from neglect.
went from this
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...2447Medium.jpg
to this
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...8/DSC02462.jpg
thanks for looking.
bruce
That heater matrix pipe needs to be cut down mate ;) dont go too short though and try not to let it lose its shape.
Looking good keep it up :thumb:
This is correct, also see that lug on the inlet in the pic, well get the grinder on it mate, also worth fitting solid monts (maybe just rear one, if you want less vibration) as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by gunny
Straight bar looks loads better mate, getting there:thumb:
Scott
Just another thought, have you bent the clutch cable hole down and to the right to clear the inlet?
thanks guys, solid mounts would be good, just that with the set of three i wouldnt be able to use the gearbox one as thats the same as the o/s engine mount...Quote:
Originally Posted by gunny
i havnt bent the clutch cable hole yet, can i do it once the engines out or is it best when the engines in so i can see how far to bend it??
thanks for the info, helps if i miss anything.:thumb:
I bent the matrix pipe on mine, down and to the right, on my prevoious xe I cut it back and it chewed through the pipe every couple of months to the point there I ended up keeping a spare hose and the tools to fix under the spare wheel in the boot
Should of filed it down mate ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Graeme Dixon
Brucer its best to do it with the engine out, put a 12/13mm socket (iirc) in the hole on an extention.
Nice find Bruce, I had a look at a Corsa B condenser and its mahoosive 60cm wide. That Aglia condenser looks like a perfect size for the Nova and would allow for more room to play with :thumb: gonna +rep you for that mateQuote:
Originally Posted by brucer
As for the heater matrix AFAIK most peple cut it by a couple cm's.
cheers, just hope i bend it enough before the engine goes back in.lolQuote:
Originally Posted by gunny
tek, thanks for the rep. If you use that and the standard LET cooler you should still have plenty of room to play with. when are you going to start building it? want to see how it all fits.:)
bit of an update, which isnt really an update more of a rant. here goes...
my engine load leveller hasnt arrived yet so have posponed getting the engine out. Will phone up the company and bollock them as its been over a week.
Fitted my rose jointed gear linkage to test out again, got it working so it goes into all gears. Even though it was trial and error for lining it up, does the F28 have a rubber grommet like on the small block gear boxes to lock it in first or which ever gear?? can only see a yellow plunger with a spring under it.:confused:
heres a small vid. still a work in progress.
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...h_MOV00510.jpg
In the mean time i thought id deal with the corsa b wiper linkage i bought. Taking into account what benn had done to his, i followed a similar route in extending it so the mechanism would line up with the holes on the scuttle. Cut the mech in half and with a all mighty "PING" my jigaw spat its blade. Presumed it had only broken the blade, but no!! it broke the housing that the blade sits in, so now my jigsaw is broken.:( . placing the mechanism up into the scuttle i tacked a bit of metal to re-join it in the correct position. got this done then my generator cut out, goes to re-start and it starts and runs for like 5-10secs then cuts out. All four rubber mountings are broken aswell so thats something else i got to look at. im not too sure if the running issue is due to only running back on petrol, i was using a petrol/diesel mix from work, which it may have got addicted too. couldnt finish the welding on the mechanism so gave up and went home. one of those weekends.
further more will come....
look very good keeping my eye on this.
Looks like you been getting down to the nitty gritty again Brucer. Don't worry about problems they just make you feel even better when you overcome them and everything works ;)
Hmm that's a tough question mate lol by the looks of things maybe just after new year. Im doing all my homework now, doing my sums, making a parts lists and what not so hopefully then. I'd also like to see how it all fits shame I'm the one who has to do it lolQuote:
Originally Posted by brucer
BTW how much was you FMIC? Coz a standard LET one, new, so far is gonna cost £200 (and thats not from vaux) :eek: Looks like I haven't spent as much time as I should have done shopping for IC's coz that price is a tad muchly lol
That yellow thing with spring on it, if standing in front of the car move the linkage over to the right, push on the yellow thing and move the linkage to the left slightly. That yellow plunger will slot in and hold the linkage. then just get somone to hold the gearstick over to the left and do the pinchbolt upQuote:
Originally Posted by brucer
Looks like you're going about the conversion the right way mate.
I would check that when you close the bonnet down the catch doesn't go into the rad.
You don't have to bend the clutch cable hole you can just chop the end to make it point different. That way you'll reduce the risk of bending the bulkhead.
Chop the matrix pipe down as people have said.
F28 linkage setup is a barsteward! definately a 2 man job and plenty of patience. Best done tho once you're running. I found I could get all gears when on the driveway but once on the road it was different.
Don't forget your oil cooler. Worth fitting on the let.
thanks tek, trying to fix my genny so i can have power down there once again.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Nova_Tek
the FMIC was 160pound from forge, if you use the code vag10 it will give you a discount. did a quick search on the net for a discount code and got one.:d
ok nice one rich, will have to give that one ago.Quote:
That yellow thing with spring on it, if standing in front of the car move the linkage over to the right, push on the yellow thing and move the linkage to the left slightly. That yellow plunger will slot in and hold the linkage. then just get somone to hold the gearstick over to the left and do the pinchbolt up
thanks for the info simps, good to get alot of oppinions of how people do the conversion.Quote:
Looks like you're going about the conversion the right way mate.
I would check that when you close the bonnet down the catch doesn't go into the rad.
You don't have to bend the clutch cable hole you can just chop the end to make it point different. That way you'll reduce the risk of bending the bulkhead.
Chop the matrix pipe down as people have said.
F28 linkage setup is a barsteward! definately a 2 man job and plenty of patience. Best done tho once you're running. I found I could get all gears when on the driveway but once on the road it was different.
Don't forget your oil cooler. Worth fitting on the let.
i will be fitting an oil cooler, will get it when the engines back in and built up, might try fit it where keith had his.:thumb:
£160 is pretty good considering its quite a bit bigger than a standard LET IC. Would Forge be able to do an standard LET sized custom IC? If it works out cheaper then it may be worth it. :thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by brucer
yeh they do custom IC's. give them a ring with the dimensions and see what they say.
You know std let cooler are tiny yeah? I have 3 here...
he does, think he wants a new one but a non vaux one is 200pound so is looking into a custom one that might be cheaper...Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
a good 2nd hand one would be as good.
Spot on mate you understood me lol Thought I'd give Forge a bell to see if a custom one with the LET dimensions would turn out cheaper then a boggo standard one that is £200.Quote:
Originally Posted by brucer
So you have 3 then Benn? Which one is in the best condition and how much you looking for? :thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
here we are again, weather wasnt looking the best this morning so i got on with a couple of jobs to pass the time.
fitted the rad back into postion to check that the bonnet catch didnt hit it.
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...8/DSC02476.jpg
alls good in the hood, so took it al back off.
attempted to get my genny to work correctly again but no luck, still only runs untill its warm and cuts out. :confused: .
after lunch i set about removing the engine, had no help as all my friends were occupied at the time.
all coupled up ready to undo the mounts.
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...8/DSC02477.jpg
mounts undone and with one swing around it was out.
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...8/DSC02479.jpg
i was contemplating mounting the engine this way.:d
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...8/DSC02481.jpg
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...8/DSC02482.jpg
out she comes and on to my engine stand, didnt have long enough bolts to fit into the gearbox bolt holes. will see what i can find at work as it would be better to rotate.
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...8/DSC02483.jpg
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...8/DSC02484.jpg
was left with an empty engine bay which ill get round to next, do some smoothing and tidying up. just gotta get my genny working correctly to give me power.:cry:.
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z...8/DSC02485.jpg
bruce
Great work so far mate, it's been a good read.
I would highly recommend fitting a new complete locking/slam panel though, you have no need at all to have a removeable slam panel with the standard turbo. It's better to keep as much strength at the front end as possible as it can flex alot with the torque.
Have a look at my thread at how to modify your turbo inlet so you don't have to cut anything from the slam. It looks more factory fit then!
Keith
Great work so far mate,top marks for getting by without power!
Some good progress.
When I said check the catch I meant the hook part then when you pull the cable still keep the bonnet connected to the slam until you pull the hook out. It can sometimes catch the fins on top of the rad.
As keith said. If you're planning on running the std catch and cable you will need more strength on the slam panel. If you're running bonnet pins its not so important.
thanks guys, the main reason i cut the front panel out was due to my engine crane being total poop and didnt want to chance the engine falling from such a height.
bonnet wise i did want to get a carbon fibre one which i would have the flush fit aero catches. Saying that i do like this bonnet as i cut the 3 holes in to it for something different. problem is i wont be able to fit the aero catches to this one as it will look mucho stupid with the holes. theres always a fibreglass bonnet...
more strength would be needed to keep the original catch as i wouldnt like the bonnet flying up at top end speeds. Going to go sit in the corner and have a think.:thumb:
Is it a must to cut the slam panel? I'd prefer to keep mine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
^ Benn, you able to give me a price? ^Quote:
Originally Posted by Nova_Tek
I kept mine on my red one. You will need to trim it tho for the afm to turbo hose if you don't chop and re-angle the inlet.
If you're going to leave the slam panel whole you will need to have the middle bar that goes to the lower panel removed or detachable or you'll struggle to get the rad in.
Good work again mate, looks like your getting well into it, don't forget to order a nice alloy single V bottom pulley either ;)
ive already trimmed the panel to get the turbo to AFM pipe in so no need to re-angle the turbo.:thumb:Quote:
I kept mine on my red one. You will need to trim it tho for the afm to turbo hose if you don't chop and re-angle the inlet.
If you're going to leave the slam panel whole you will need to have the middle bar that goes to the lower panel removed or detachable or you'll struggle to get the rad in.
its on the list scott, got to get the original one off first!! think im going to have to take the engine to work and use the air gun.:dQuote:
Good work again mate, looks like your getting well into it, don't forget to order a nice alloy single V bottom pulley either ;)
AIR GUN!
They should not be that tight, might be thread locked on, need some heat to free??
i havnt tried undoing them yet and im lazy, air gun FTW!! lol
You dont need to cut the slam panel, i didnt mine.
2 are in good nick ones a lil battered. Price wise? £20-30?Quote:
Originally Posted by Nova_Tek
Are you joking? They wont have been touched in a good few k so they'll be tight and rusted in.. Most just round off before they undo as they are very soft.Quote:
Originally Posted by scott.parker
I seen your slam panel, mint! That's how I want mine, untouched :) . I'll pm you about the IC :thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn