Tyre pressures for reducing understeer

I agree. Its all about decent tyres, tyre width (to a degree) & good geometry.

I lowered my last daily driver (1.2) -60mm on GMAX suspension (if you can call it that). The camber was effected so bad that fr end gripo almost vanished. The car was understeering & losing grip so easily at low speeds. This was partly due to the std 165 tyres & improved with the 195/45 I later fitted. But it just proves the importance of good camber &/or geometry.

[to add] having the rear ride height slightly higher in relation to the front puts a little extra bias on the front grip.

understeering is gay

but tbh i used to mess around with my tyre pressure on the nova, some times it made a bit of difference etc. my car was on a full suspension set up, aligned and every thing

also when i lowerd my rear more the car had a nice equal feel of grip, it just stuck to the road!? i thought it wpuld of madfe it worse but infact it made it better for understeer for some reason.

well lowering the rear would make the front lighter as the weight would be transferring back.
there is no doubt that lowering a car would make it handle better. but there is a line.
when you say 'aligned and everything' what did that include? being that camber adjusting is not available on std front shocks, topmounts without filing the holes. and rear camber movement is not possible without shimming the hubs. but i dont know why you would like to do that.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by meritlover

Iainel im guessing that you are one of these small boys that drive your car on the bump stops to impress ladies/other young boys and therefor upset your camber so much that out of a 195 tyre you will only be using approx 1.5" of the inside of the tyre anyway :(

---

Talk about throwing wild accusations. :tosser: It was just a fcuking question regarding something I've read.

And for the record my car's not lowered stupid amounts, and it's not to impress anybody (it's not even styled). It has the best suspension I can afford on it, and I just want the best out of what I've got! And if simple things like playing with adjustable shocks and changing tyre pressure can help then that's all good.

Mr Iainel it is not a 'wild accusation' as i said, it was a GUESS.:tosser:

Mr Meritlover it sounded like you were saying you thought I was some little chav.

right

get camber adjustment via bolts on the front
get it tracked and aligned

rear, slightly higher than the front, gives it added 'point' and allows for beter turn in

stiffen the rear up a bit too, and fit strut braces

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Stoo

stiffen the rear up a bit too, and fit strut braces

---

I was playing with my rear shocks last night actually. :thumb: It did seem to feel a bit better with the rear stiffer.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by iainel

Mr Meritlover it sounded like you were saying you thought I was some little chav.

---

i accept your appology

as Mr Stoo states. it will cost virtually nothing to make a difference to your handling. if you can use a round file you can perform camber alignment. you can make a plumb line with a protractor a weight and some string. i have never done it with string. but with a stick the width of the car and make a metal bracket with 2 screws at the top so it can be set to touch the rim. then move the stick until the screws touch the top rim and measure the gap. then use some pythagorus (famous dinosaur) to calculate the angle.

alternatively i think that some ebay magnetic gauges can be bought that have a ball that rolls to the angle. but i think these are pants.

My set-up was, -40 jamex kit (rear sat at standard height due to weight loss from removing rear seats and trim), 195/50x15 firestone tyres, pressures at 27psi front, 26psi rear, no front anti-roll-bar (bushes were knackered anyway), poly TCA and tie-rod bushes, GTE rear ARB.

That all handled quite well, had a good bit of understeer before I removed the front ARB, afterwards turn-in was sharper, it felt a lot more planted on bumpy bends, and the occasional (ahem, every morning on one particular roundabout going to work) slide from the back was more controlable. It did have a touch more roll than before, but it felt good to me.

EDIT: this was with a stitch welded front end, No strut braces and a little 1400 8v.

Also found this, http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.a...bCat=&subCatID= , not a bad price.