:tard: :tard: :tard: yes dear it does and that is why it needs re fabing lollollolQuote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
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:tard: :tard: :tard: yes dear it does and that is why it needs re fabing lollollolQuote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
mate, what can i say!! strength to strength on this one, your learning so much from this motor and the results are speaking for themselves!
No, ally top mounts the center bit where the nut is is offset, so set that so the smaller side in towards the bay and you canthen move it over..Quote:
Originally Posted by Count Vaux Alot
Olz will only need what 5mm?
James - not necessarily, because now the topmounts aren't used to add / reduce camber and castor, due to my other bits and bobs... I can run the off centre closest to the bolt holes on the inside edge
So don't laff at mr brown boy ;) lol
Paul - why thank you sir :)
Benn - posted at the same time! jynx... ermmm... 5mm would be plenty, as I'd never run any tyres bigger than those Michelins lol
People people you have got the wrong end of the stick here i wasn't saying Olly needed to re fab the top mounts just stating that olly was stating the obvious in post 1950 thats all...
lol i'm great at stating the obvious :p
If we are being pedantic it should have read
Happy lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Count Vaux Alot
I think the idea of elongating the strut top and locating the top mount in the position previously stated will give to the needed clearance and consist of the least amount fafery (time off road or track in your case ;))
You can but try and see!
so what ya suggesting...
two angle grinder slots in towards the bay, followed by jigsawage?
and also, straight in at a 90degree right angle? or in and back for increased castor ala CPMCJIM?
For simplicity, symetricalness, I'd say a right angle, straight in. lol
When you coming up and giving me a hand James? lol
No, do like i said, use the beltsander you did your arches with, and use that to elongating the hole.. That way you dont need to be cutting anything.