lol lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Spudly
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lol lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Spudly
Got given a 'cheat sheet' from Autosprint regarding first starts, it says to run it at fast idle (2000rpm) for 10 minutes while checking for leaks, then drop the oil and filter. So plan was to get exhaust modified and fitted, fill up the cooling system and follow this procedure. Then it can be driven to an MOT giving it some load etc to bed the rings in.Quote:
Originally Posted by burgo
Scrote-tastic. :)
Not long now! Text me before you just turn up randomly in it though mate. :thumb:
Can i have a passenger ride in this once its MOT'd pwettttttty pleeease :)
Its come along way since last time i checked up on this.
Well done Iain, great work as usual :thumb:
Depends who you "believe"Quote:
Originally Posted by Iain
A LOT of people just go for the put it under load and plenty of over-run (vacuum to pull the rings into the cylinder walls) method.
Being a bit too "pansy" with it can cause early wear
As you say it depends who you listen to, Most engine builders say to "bed it in" how your going to use it, Something that is a Must on tractors!
I've always done the warm it up under little load, then load it right up and done no engine braking.
I wouldn't suggest leaving it idling but with Iains build its a bit of a pain if not.
Tina's engine running-in process was done the M6/M1 on the way to Billing lol
so off the limiter everywhere for 400miles lolQuote:
Originally Posted by AlexW
See i followed the 50miles and really low rpm, then 250 at under 4k sh*te way, the engine was a bag of utter crap (badly built anyway and not by me)Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam
Think next time i'll try and 10min and 2k then power on way next time..
While looking behind you at the queue and smiling...Quote:
Originally Posted by General Baxter
.