C pillar ones are fair game, and were removed when the car was built 10 years ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by iainel
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C pillar ones are fair game, and were removed when the car was built 10 years ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by iainel
should have bought r1 ones, then if they didnt fit i'd buy them for mine lolQuote:
Originally Posted by novarally
seriously tho they're a nice piece of kit, hope they work out for you, cheap alternative and masive weight saving
New front towing eye now fitted;
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/002-23.jpg
And rear one removed and replaced with the alloy version;
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/017-15.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/018-13.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/019-15.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...cort/022-6.jpg
There's still a bit more material to be removed from the bumper to get it fitting better, and more metal to come off the chassis rail where it was mounted. But already I have a weight saving of 350g, a good result for a tow eye.
And now the pile of scrap from removing the double skinning on the tailgate aperture;
I got fed up with the spot weld drill, and resorted to the angle grinder, so there is a fair bit of tidying up to do;
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/020-12.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/021-10.jpg
Final part of this update goes with a big 'Thanks' to Ian Bennett (not sure of his User ID on here), an excellent Graphic Designer who has done these stickers for the front headlamps for me;
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/015-12.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/016-13.jpg
I'm well pleased with them, and I think they'll look excellent on the car. Ian is also sorting me out some sticker replicas of the rear lights.
If anyone needs any graphics doing, I can definitely recommend Ian's work.
them graphics look fantastic and should be a nice touch to the car, so well done to Ian. The towing eyes look good too Colin... where did you get them from as my chassis rail around the rear towing eye is a bit crusty to say the least?!
The tow eyes are from DSN Classics;Quote:
Originally Posted by mk1nova_rich
http://www.dsnclassics.co.uk/
Really impressive service from them, and the parts are lovely quality.
Good saving there Colin, and i just could help but laugh at them headlight stickers, there excellent!
Scott
i'm really liking the stickers too....... i was trying to work out how to get a good pic of them with my shonky camera, i'm glad someone with skills did such a great job on them.
colin, there really can't be much more weight to get out of the car, surely....
apart from going extreme with the acid dipping, the shell must be crazy light now.
Mowgli are you being coy with your words, and trying not to upset Colin, as i think we all know a good way of drooping some wight to get our cars quicker...
i already know colin is working on the other, i was actually openly wondering just how much more weight could possibly be taken from the shell, and other metal bits... paper mache bumpers perhaps?? really thin vac form sheet bumpers & panels?
You're right, there's not much more weight which can come out of the shell itself, I'm nearly done with that now.Quote:
Originally Posted by mowgli
I am considering having it dipped and re-painted though, partly to tidy it all up, partly to save a little weight, but mostly to put my own 'stamp' on it.
Only trouble is I keep changing my mind as to what colour I would do it......
There's a fair bit more weight still to be saved in other areas though;
1. Bonded in windows all round (losing the rubber seals) - approx. 4kg
2. The lighter wheels I am having made - circa 8kg
3. Motorcycle front brakes (if that works) - 7kg
4. Tubular exhaust manifold instead of cast iron - maybe 2kg
5. Fibreglass doors arriving soon - hopefully 5kg
6. Assorted ideas I have; alloy throttle pedal, machine down the CV joints, lighten the rear beam, electric water pump, lightweight starter motor
7. Numerous titanium bits; flywheel, anti-roll bars, tie bars, driveshafts, drive flanges (all these depend on my lottery numbers coming up).
I'm hoping to see 570kg on my scales soon.
Sodding hell you really are going for it then mate, fair play, i hope you can get it that light i will be very impressed..
PS: i was not trying to offend was meant in jest the wight loss comment, it worked for me! lol
Scott
is there a minimum material spec for the windows?
It's interesting you should mention that. I always thought it was 4mm, same as rally cars, but I've been looking through the 'Blue Book' and there's no reference to minimum thickness at all! Great news as I want to replace the windows with bonded in anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by mowgli
What are your thoughts for material then Mowgli?
Obviously it needs to be thick enough not to deform, so a sheet of cellophane is out........and it has to look right.
None taken Scott. I've made a little progress on myself in that direction (a few kgs down!), but it's not proving as easy as taking it off the car.Quote:
Originally Posted by scott.parker
I fitted 4mm Plexiglas in rear boot aperture (this is the same pollycarb and wont discolor etc) but you can get sheet form Plexiglas in 2-3mm i think i have some 3mm somewhere, enough to do the rear quarters! it's fairly cheep too, or you can get it from say an exhibition stand manufacture, as that how i got mine, was working at a place and got it for free!
Serch on google.. http://www.uk.best-price.com/search/...id/3525096778/
Scott
i was thinking of 2mm polycarbonate.... the curve of the car should just about hold it solid, but to be honest, i can't imagine a little rattle from the back would be heard in the full flight of a hill climb...
i was pondering if it could be vacformed for bumpers & wings too.....
i know really thin polycarb is used for rc cars, and there was a lotus elise that had some for its bodywork.. dunno what vacform of big parts costs though.
Nice to meet you today Colin, car is a very impressive piece of kit. Glad your happy with the graphics, thanks alot :)
Many thanks
Ian
Colin, go with something similar to your white yellow and grey scheme!
/\/\ agreed
I had a chat today with the ever helpful Paul at 'Plastics 4 Performance', and he reckoned 2mm will be OK for the rear quarter and door windows.Quote:
Originally Posted by mowgli
But he suggests 3mm for the tailgate window.
see if it's worthwhile weight wise to go for 2mm, but with a couple of aluminium bars running down the window to hold it in placeQuote:
Originally Posted by novarally
if it is curved & bonded, then sod it, it'll do.. the only time the rear windows will get stress is when colin slams the door
Seeing as I don't know the motorsport rules & regs, I'll ask the obvious question, do you need to have rear & side windows at all?
You do, yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Welsh Dan
So i was wrong to suggest the 2-3mm Plexiglas then??
jesus this car is going to be feather light, didnt some hatches have a skiny rear bumper like the saloon that could save a couple of grams
I've spent a good deal of time trying to track down the right motorcycle disc and bell assembly to suit my plans, but have drawn a bit of a blank as most bikes seem to use a disc of roughly 320mm.Quote:
Originally Posted by MK999
I want to use a disc of (roughly) 280mm.
But today I've been speaking to a company who will custom make me a solid disc and alloy bell to whatever size and thickness I want.
I asked for a price on a 280mm x 5mm cross-drilled disc, and they can do that, complete with a custom alloy mounting bell for £130 each, which has got to be a bargain.
Weight-wise the alloy bell is going to be roughly 350g, and the disc itself around 1.6kg (cast iron, as opposed to the stainless steel which bikes use), so it's still going to be a huge weight saving, and will fit without any messing about. Just leaves the caliper mounting bracket to sort out.
maybe only a small weight saving but i think that the early wiper motor you have on there is heavier than the late one
plus with the late one you could get a alloy base plate made up
just an idea
colin, i thought you were going for really small wheels..... like the mini boys use???
Some of the Mini's use 10" wheels, and some of them 13".Quote:
Originally Posted by mowgli
I'm going to be using 13" (which will accomdate a 280mm disc and motorcycle caliper).
I did think about using 10" on the Nova, but I think it might look very silly, and will upset all the geometry no doubt.
Well 13" with low profiles will get it up to speed quite quickly, i think a 10" wheel with low profile tyres would possibly a bit to under geared even for sprinting, no?
Cant wait to see some updates.
Scott
Sorry a 280mmx5mm disc
Is that a typo as that is super super thin?
Probably not mate, as there light weight bike disks.
As Scott says, bike discs being used. Few pics a few posts backQuote:
Originally Posted by Andy_L
Some serious weight saving going on here Colin. Will be interesting to see the figure at the final weigh in lol
Fantastic work, i have always liked this nova!
David.
Yes, that's the size I'm going to be using, it's not a typo!Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy_L
Some samples of the brake discs that the company I'm getting to make them have done previously;
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...20xKsWncPS.jpg
Been a little while since I updated, but there has been some work going on.
Yesterday I welded some tubes into the sills to accept my sill stands. I've actually added a little weight with these!
But it will make working on the car so much more convenient, at least until the day I get my 2-post lift installed (which is a long way off).
Whilst I was busy with the grinder I also removed the extra metal plates that fix the rear towing eye to the chassis rail. An awful lot of work for almost no weight loss!
Dan at ACW Motorsport Plastics kindly sorted me out with a set of 2mm polycarbonate windows, which I need to get fitted. These will be bonded directly to the shell, so I can do away with the rubber seals and save some weight.
I'll add some photos soon.
Can you post pics of how youve done the sill stands please
Just drill through the outer sill skin & through the inner sill box section, weld them in, weld a blanking plate over the "open" end of the tube, and a surround plate (strengthening plate) if you think youll need them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul
Ive prolly got some pics somewhere but theyll be on a 106, 205 or possibly a C2 lol
Edit:
Bottom centre of pic
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...m/c2r22009.jpg
Bottom of B pillar cage leg
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...2r22009-15.jpg
Will do Paul, my Nova is sat in a friends workshop until I go and collect it on Monday, as I was using his 4 post lift to make my life easier.Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul
The way Mike has described is largely how I've done it, except I've linked the tubes up to the 'feet' of the roll cage.
Photos on Monday.