No mention of my helpful motivation for you today dude, looking good though!
P.S. I broke the ST on the way homing some Hinkly wide boy his ass!
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No mention of my helpful motivation for you today dude, looking good though!
P.S. I broke the ST on the way homing some Hinkly wide boy his ass!
foook me, Mr TB.
still got that spangly MK1 GTE tuby?
oh and assuming its a mk 2 focus ST, may I suggest blagging a ST260 calibration ;)
the ST500 would still benefit from the ST260 mods ;)
Just take the ST to Motorsport Developments ;)
Now the seats are mounted, just need to spray the inside of my car - I decided to tidy up all the wiring and mount the ECU & COMMS plug easily accessible, can see them down by fuse box in the next 2 pics
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0540.jpg
Got a snap off boss with 60mm steering wheel spacer from ebay for ?28, bargain
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0541.jpg
Seats are now in, floor and bars need a coat of paint though
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0542.jpg
With clutch being done and it being on the roag again, first time its seen daylight since trackday on 7th December
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0545.jpg
Sold my manifold & exhaust today in favour of a larger bore system (2.5"), and race 4-1 manifold, my motto if more air is going in, more air needs to get out lol
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0543.jpg
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0544.jpg
Tomorrow will consist of spraying the inside, getting the harnesses back in, and doing a nut & bolt check again :)
Left to do - get exhaust fitted, cams fitted, timing done, ARPs fitted and mapping session :)
Can you still reach the light and wiper stalks with the new boss and spacer?
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0545.jpg
Cool pic/\ :cool:
Whos the new exhaust made by? Ashley? Custom jobbie?
Didn't think they did 2.5" systems.
Nice one mate :)
Have you tried putting that manifold on yet ? I do hope you don't have the problems I did with a design like that.
Looks superb though, next saturday still good ?
Can't wait to see it with the inside all painted up etc - Going body colour or white?
Did you get the 6-dial clocks you were after as well ?
I figured the snap-off boss and the spacer (obviously) would push the wheel further and thus away from the stalks, just wondering if you could reach it from the wheel as you do in normal driving.
New exhaust looks good, glad to see you've got a black tailpipe design again.
Looking good Olly, glad to see your making major progress still.
Nice work dude
Ian
Knowing baxter, he used a grinder on them at some point lolQuote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
Excellent update Ols!
Wish i had a garage at home :( :( :(
Ps Where did you pick your gearbox up from??
Balls ! Do you want something making to get round this problem then ?
Infact I'll call you ;)
For some reason it didn't upload, but this is where I've mounted my ECU and Comms plug, easily accessible so I can take it with me should I leave the car anywhere untoward lol :)
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0546.jpg
nice work :cool:
good skillz olz
Restecpa!
lol not that good by all accounts
seems my manifold won't fit due to it fouling on the drivers tie bar mount lol buggerz!
hey ho - will remove the mount tomorrow, fit the manifold and take some pics to see whats needed to get it to fit...
This is how Ads/ JBs is, you can see how primary#1 crosses over to position #3 to get the clearance, and mine doesn't... however he said they're made for the Nova - so we'll see
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Jatec/simps2.jpg
Worst comes to worst, I'll have to get some of these babies made up lol
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Jatec/tiebar.jpg
To explain better why they'll help, whipped this from Jonboy via Ad's WIP thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Moran
Nice progress:thumb:
Lets hope the fannymold problem doesn't hold you up much.
Hit the manifold with a big hammer.
Alternatively, just give the car to my mrs, and she'l bend your tiebar for you, like she did on my SR lol
Right then, time for an update - was out there early doors seeing if this manifold it going to fit. good news. it does. but... I'll explain with pics.... how very unlike me!? lol
Had to remove the tie bar, to see just how much it wasn't going to fit by - as it wouldn't get past the tie bar bracket before it fell onto the studs
First up, upper left hand shoulder was too beefy and fouled on thermostat housing preventing it to fit flush against the head
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0547.jpg
Grinder - DONE
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0548.jpg
Once it was on, I wanted to see if the tie bar would even start to go on... suprised and good news that it did, so i loosely put the front bolt in, so i was sure it was in the correct place, left to right, and vertically
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0549.jpg
then dropped the bolts thru, and loosely put the nuts on, again, just to make sure everything was as it should be
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0550.jpg
along with bottom ball joint bolt, just put it through the hole
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0551.jpg
I was suprised that all the bolts went in reletavily easily, next up to prove it wasn't sagging at the head, causing the easyness, i put on a manifold bolt at the top, to hold it tight onto the head... mmmm big bores
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0556.jpg
right, now the slight problem, and need your advice, here are the pics of it fitted, and the next 4 pics of what I have in mind, and where it touches
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0552.jpg
misses the actual tiebar by about half inch
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0553.jpg
you can see where it touches here
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0554.jpg
and the shape of things here
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0555.jpg
Here is my ideas, but would like opinions
The red it where it touches, but I think I can grind off the lip where the dotted green line is, think that'll solve that problem
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0557.jpg
Actual tiebar misses by about half inch, so I dont think thats an issue
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0558.jpg
The only way I can see it fitting is to cut the lip off the tie bar bracket, and grinding down the side of the washer, which I don't really want to do
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0559.jpg
However, you can see how primary no1, takes a different and wider route than 2/3/4 (and seems longer/ lower?!), so the other option is to take it back to John, and get him to make primary no1 closer to the others, so its more over to the passenger side
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0560.jpg
Would like peoples opinions if possible...
Couple questions:
> if the manifold clears the tie bar by half inch, is this enough? I'm thinking so, I'm on solid mounts so the engine hardly moves anyway, as when the engine is under load it tilts back (away) if anything, so it won't ever tip forward anymore...
> if they do modify it so its closer to 2/3/4, do you think that'll be enough to get the clearance I need, or am driving down a dead end?
> any ideas/ opinions/ suggestions are more than welcome - thanks
Think you should take it back to get rebent, kinda looks like its in the wrong place anyway with the other 3 next to each other and all in line.
If not what about a tight bit of heat wrap to pull no1 into the other 3 pipes !?!
Looking at your pics again that prob would sort the washer issue but you still would need to cut the bracket.
Yeah I agree actually, and that would also pull it further away from the tie bar even moreso...
Even cutting the bracket isn't something I'm keen on, but I guess as long as I keep the bend in it, the strength will remain?
I mean, just shave some off, rather than remove the lip completely...
Any other suggestions you can think of?
Its close that!
Not sure what your planning but when JB did mine it "almost" went but when its wrapped in heat wrap there was no chance.
Are you going to wrap it?
If so take it back to Ashley's and get it rebent/remade, im sure they will be able to do that.
As for cutting the tie bar, probably not a good idea incase it weakens it. If you have the funds get something like mine made ;)
that pic of the scissors made me chuckle
Would running lowered tiebar mounts on the front move it away from the manifold?? Or is there a reason your not already running these?
The protec tie bar mounts I think would make the problem worse, they are heavily braced, typically around the area where your having problems.
The setup we used won't help either as the main brackets are very similar to the pro tec ones.
The engine will move a lot more than you think, especially at that point too so grinding the bracket and washer down is really out of the question, is the manifold now tight against the head ?
These are Ads :
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...c/DSC02544.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...c/DSC02543.jpg
I can't see them fitting at all :(
Take it back to John and get him to modify it, you need atleast 1/2 inch of clearance imo.
Indeed.
Even with slight clearence, the engine is obviously going to be moving about on the mounts when braking etc...
Good luck with that one...
Just the bigger stuff to sort now but your well on your way :)
Anyway, whilst I can't do anything about the exhaust, I removed the manifold again, and put all the tie bar setup back on, wheel back on and back on the floor...
Rolled it just out the garage to remove the seats, harnesses and subframes
What we started with
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0561.jpg
Decided to use some seam sealer to go over some edges that were left, and to make it look prettier
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0562.jpg
Primer first coat just so the paint grips
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0563.jpg
Done diddly
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0564.jpg
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0565.jpg
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0566.jpg
Now it sits in the garage drying... tomorrow I'll be putting the seats & harnesses back in for good (yeah right lol), putting fuel lines back correctly, and routing the battery live cable, and spray the rollcage feet black again.
In the mean time, I'll get onto Ashley tomorrow morning and see what they say :)
Thanks for reading all
Would those lowered rose jointed tie bar mounts that Chris is selling help?
i agree with the above..
it may lower it, so there's enough clearance?
They won't make any difference, the bracing on them is larger than the standard units as shown in the picture I posted of Ads
You could always modify them. Isn't all the load on the two big bolts that hold it on. That little bolt that holds the braket in place is not exactly beefy.
My homebrew lowered mounts don't have alot to stength in that area and have never been a problem.
That "little" bolt is possibly the most important part of the mount, its also M10, same as the other 2 longer bolts.
Leave it loose or remove it and you'll snap your crossmember off, I found out the hard way after someone forgot to tighten the ones on my white nova.
I think the issue really is how much clearance you need, I do agree you could trim the mount but when the engine moves it will touch :(
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonlem
how come corsa's dont have them, if they are very important, they only have the vertical bolt's :confused:
The corsa has 3 bolts, thus spreading the load, the bracket works in a totally different way to how the nova one does.
The problem is when the bolts are removed or left lose on the nova it allows the bracket to twist on the crossmember as the wheel pulls back on the tie bar, it will crush the crossmember a bit thus makign the 2 vertical bolts lose, for this reason I run 2 **** off plates on the top side of the crossmember where the bolts drop through, corsas run 3 captive nuts on the top side iirc
It took me 10 laps to tear the whole section of my crossmember off with one left lose.
The corsa is a far better engineered car from the factory as I'm sure you have noticed when working on one, a nova can easily be as good but a few simple things that are overlooked can wreck a good shell.