if you know how and have the skills why dont you quote colin?Quote:
Originally Posted by mk1nova_rich
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if you know how and have the skills why dont you quote colin?Quote:
Originally Posted by mk1nova_rich
These have just arrived in the post - a pair of 22mm diameter Mini stub axles designed for use on trailers using Mini hubs (bargain buy - thanks to Mowgli for the link!);
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...cort/020-9.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...cort/021-6.jpg
They are exactly the same length as Nova ones, but having had a try with them, and some measuring, I find that the plan to machine down the Nova stub axles has been thwarted.........the Nova stub starts off at only 16mm diameter (just after the thread ends) and then tapers out to larger.
But it needs to be 22mm all the way from the thread backwards.
So, I'm now thinking that it would be possible to cut the flange part off a Nova stub axle, and weld these Mini trailer stubs onto them.
I'll need to take professional advice as to whether welded will be strong enough, but I'm sure that a weld properly done would be as strong as a solid piece of metal. That will also avoid the problem of having to get it hardened, as presumably these stub axles I've bought are already done.
The only other alternative is to completely machine new stubs from scratch.............but that will no doubt be a more expensive route.
Any expert thoughts are of course welcome.
In the meantime I decided to go back to having yellow headlamp covers, so got the paints out!;
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...cort/007-9.jpg
really like this car , what does it go like?? is it similar to a std nova gsi?? or is it qwuicker?? what torque has it got??
looks very well engineered
much lighter and more powerful than a Gsi so im guessing quite a lot quicker, combined with the handling setup and trick mods i bet the anti-lagged 1.0 turbo makes it quite nippy to say the least!
lol - I think the difference to this & a GSi is chalk & cheese
Indeed........a Power to Weight ratio of 270bhp per tonne makes it go rather well.Quote:
Originally Posted by BRoadGhost
A quick off the top of my head calculation suggests about 117bhp per tonne for a GSi.
Not really on the same planet performance wise.
To give some idea of the performance, there was a specific Class for Ferrari's at the last hillclimb I did, and 10 of them turned out.
This Nova was faster than all but one of them.
And that one was a 430 Scuderia.
This one; http://www.zipp.co.uk/gallery/Loton-...+5126.jpg.html
nice mate youll have to post up events you will be at as id love to pop allong and see this little beast kicking ass!!Quote:
Originally Posted by novarally
fair plays :)Quote:
Originally Posted by novarally
hiow much does it weigh then?? thats an awesome power to weight for such a small capacity motor
somebody really should photograph some mk1 headlamps at 1:1 scale & make stickers.......
colin, re the welding.. as long as you get someone to make them good & straight, the joint could be no worse than whats already on a nova rear beam.. or get a sleeve machined so you can still bolt it to the 4 holes, and weld the mini stub inside it
i was also thinking along these lines, as it would probably be stronger and much easier to get the stub axles square to the beam :thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by mowgli
Funnily enough that's something I had thought about on many occasions.Quote:
Originally Posted by mowgli
My computer skills/equipment aren't up to it, so who wants to earn a few quid by making me some self-adhesive Mk.1 Nova headlamp stickers?
that will look mad when done!! id do it but im **** on pc's lolQuote:
Originally Posted by novarally
a scanner or colour photo copier would get the pics.. then off to the print shop
Nova stub axles now machined to accept the Mini stubs;
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/003-16.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/004-12.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/005-13.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/004-13.jpg
Just got to do some trial fitting to make sure all is well before they're welded together.
coming together nicely now Colin, what needs doing next?
Figuring out a way of mounting the rear caliper bracket is now the priority. As you can see, the way it all mounts up doesn't make for a simple bracket;Quote:
Originally Posted by mk1nova_rich
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/005-14.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/006-15.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ort/007-10.jpg
The black alloy caliper bracket is the part supplied with the kit, which bolts directly onto the Mini radius arm.
Obviously there's nowhere for that to attach to on the Nova........
im sure you'll figure that bit out, some nice touches going into this, i bet you cant wait to get it done?
block of ally mounted to the threads off the 4 allen head bolts?
Anodised ina rancid colour to clash with the gold. Green? :roll:Quote:
Originally Posted by mowgli
hardcore rear brakes though!
You want to make an "n" shaped billet bracket that bolts up on the inside face of the beam upright [you'll need to buy some longer replacement bolts for stub axle] then the other side of it just requires two clearance holes for the caliper bracket studs to go through.
oh and maybe make the new bolts shanked :)
Before the brackets get finally designed, I've got to think about the track width.Quote:
Originally Posted by BRoadGhost
The Mini hubs make the track 40mm (approx) wider on each side of the axle, so I will certainly have to wide arch the car.
I can reduce this track increase a bit by machining the Mini stub axle further back.
But it's still going to be a lot wider at the rear than a standard Nova axle.
i love this car :) would like to go to a hill climb event, looking at the pictures in the link you posted there seem to be a real good variety of cars and bikes :)
could you redrill the holes in the original bracket to line up with the stub axle bolts, then machine the stub axle back to make the disc line up with the caliper? it would also help reduce the increased track
colin, if you shorten the stub, can't you redrill the caliper bracket to fit the beam??
Good progress i like the dedication to the cause.
A question.......
Is it really worth all this hassel to loose a few Kg off the car?
WIth the added problem of track width increase and potentially having to wide arch it isnt that going to add weight back on,
I know the standard setup isnt exactly brilliant but wouldnt all the money be better spent elsewere?
Tell me if im incorrect just posing a question :)
It is a very valid question!Quote:
Originally Posted by Kev Turbo
Yes, I think saving 8kg of unsprung weight will be worth all the effort, and I do enjoy the 'getting there' part of developing a car as well.
It's also not costing me much to do, as all the machining and welding work is being done by my neighbour who enjoys helping out. I just pay him for materials, damage to his tooling and a drink for his time.
I have been thinking about wide arching the car for a long time now, so this will now force my hand, which is no bad thing as I may never have decided otherwise. It means I will have a wide track rear beam, and still be able to use sensibly sized wheels/tyres.
surely you can negate some of the extra track by modifying the beam
if you grind off the plates from the outside of the beam and weld them on the inside (red to cyan)
this will lose you 20mm overall track,
and then with machining the mini stubs you might be able to maintain normal arches
http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/9251/beamnarrow.png
Thanks Colin,Quote:
Originally Posted by novarally
I do not have any previous Race experience and not something i would ever go into so its nice to see and learn from guys like you who have obviously been competing for years.
Keep the updates coming. Although i rarely post i do keep and eye on a lot of projects this being one.
I would love to see some video footage of the car competing :)
I was thinking the other day that this in the shell of your old red car with the carbon bonnet would be a perfect setup!
completely off the wall comment here colin, but is there any way to mount the axle flange onto the inside of the beam with the shaft poking thru the hole.? that would move it in a heap... and if you did end up going wide arch, you could move it back out.....
tbh saving 8kg for maybe a few hundread quid is very good value.
i suspect the F1 guys spend millions to loose weight, im sure somewhere i heard befor, they spend a million to gain a second...
Hi Ben.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben
Yes, it would have been a very nice combination, but unfortunately it wouldn't have been legal for the 'Modified Production Class' regulations in hillclimbing.
But widetrack would be..?
TBH I dislike wide arched novas full stop, if it were mine I'ud reengineer heaven & earth to avoid that route.
It's another very interesting suggestion from you. I will investigate!Quote:
Originally Posted by mowgli
And the other point raised about losing the flange is a good one, although there's a lot of leverage going through that mounting plate, and I'm not sure if it would be man enough without it.
If they gained an entire second spending the last million on the car it'd most likely be the most economic advance in F1 since the 80'slolQuote:
Originally Posted by bmw156
you dont remove the flange altogether, you reweld it on the inside of the beamQuote:
Originally Posted by novarally
Continuing from Mowgli's inspired suggestion about moving the stub axle to the inside face of the mounting, I have been experimenting;
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...cort/040-2.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...cort/041-2.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...cort/042-2.jpg
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...cort/043-1.jpg
I definitely think this is the right way to be going with it, although there are some issues to overcome, inevitably.
1. The stub axle isn't fitting flush to the mounting face at the moment, as the hole in the beam axle isn't quite big enough for it to pass through. This can easily be solved by making the hole larger, or machining a little bit off the stub axles.
2. This is the bigger problem.....you can see I've had to bend over the mounting 'tab' for the rear shock absorber, to give clearance to pass the stub axle through. This was also assisted by the fact that currently the stub axle is in 2 pieces (it hasn't been welded yet)!
I reckon that the shock absorber mounting bracket would have to be made to be removeable so that this could be achieved.
Nothing too problematic, and the upsides are that it reduces the track increase to maybe 10mm on each side, and it makes the fabrication of a caliper mounting bracket far easier, as it now has a square face to mount onto, which is also closer to the caliper.
that looks like quite a good solution.
i do watch/read this thread alot.
p.s can you not move the bracket for the suspension over abit? or is that not allowed in your rules?
good work :)
^Would still be a issue as its not all assembled yet.
Plus it would mean turreting in the rear and losing half the chassis leg.