Made laugh out loud so had to be done.
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Made laugh out loud so had to be done.
Small update,
Removed the shaft, measured how much the joint moves on the shaft...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_1369.jpg
Refitted the shaft, jacked the leg up to the highest point it can (4 inch long spring)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_1375.jpg
Giving a shaft angle of this...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_1374.jpg
Joint plunged in fully..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_1377.jpg
And fully extended.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_1376.jpg
Giving me 15-20mm movment (hard to measure with where it is)
Leg dropped down to its full open lengh (9inch long spring)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_1379.jpg
Giving me a shaft angle of this (looks straight but isn't)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_1378.jpg
Fully in,
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_1381.jpg
Fully out,
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_1380.jpg
Giving me almost the same movement of about 20mm..
So that would mean that it's not the plug and extension that's damaging the cv joints yes? As they move in and out about the right amount...
That means it is angle that has damaged the cage, popping the bearings out and breaking the cv.
Thoughts?
Id say your correct.
I checked mine briefly yesterday and my shaft points up and back quite alot and couldnt get any movent in the shaft back and forth.
So im keeping a close eye on how your sorting this, I will have to inspect mine fully to see if ive got movement like you and think about altering the mount.
Keep us updated! :)
Will do, If your hub nuts done up it wont move..
Shaft all built back up, waiting on a drive shaft oil seal.
Fingers crossed for you dude!
Nick.
Hopping it will help everything. Just wanna use the car and not worry it will brake again. Really takes the enjoyment and confidence out of driving it.
I'm sure your revision of the gearbox mount will make it good enough to solve the nightmare; it'll just come down to the amount of pull back the wheel faces under load and how much tip the engine mounts allow. I went twelve degrees of castor and my shafts are perfectly square, as you look down on them from the top of the engine bay.
What tie bar / lower arm bushes are you using? When you start the car up & you're sat in it idling, how much vibration do you feel?
Glad you replied, i hope it's made it all a bit better. Engine mounts dont move at all, well i cant push the engine bay hand at all and it doesn't move when you reve it hard.
Pull back? As in how much it moves when you pull away?
Std lowered 30mm tie bars, arms are new with std bushes, but i'd like to change all the bushes on the front to medium hard ones...
Cause of the hard mounts you feel all the vibration thru the car..
Benn bin the standard bushes its 250bhp plus in a nova the wheels will be going everywhere with them standard bushes
The wheel will inherently pull against the tie bar under acceleration and with the torque you're making I wouldn't even consider less than race [hardest] poly bushes. try to get nylon if possible, you want as little deviation as possible that's why people go rose jointed. It's good that you can feel the vibration though the car, the mounts sound fine then.
Ive got a set of pollyrace tie bar bushes new if you want them? No good to me like
Yeah?Quote:
Originally Posted by nova_stee
Yeah i understand that, thing was i didn't want fully hard ones. As i know a few cars that have felt crashy with all on polly.. So hard polly then as i've never seen nylon ones for sale.Quote:
Originally Posted by BRoadGhost
Yeah the glue mounts are rock hard and you feel everything thru them. First ever drive was different shall we say..lol
Just the front tie bar ones? How much? Cheers dude.Quote:
Originally Posted by skud52
Yea just the front as i went lowered rose joint. You can have them mate pm your details and ill post em off tuesday if ya like
Cheers dude, pm on way.Quote:
Originally Posted by skud52
Thinking about it, my tie bar bushes are the factory ones... eek.
Believe it or not, a crashy ride wouldn't come from a bush too hard. All they do is expose the next softest thing it's tied to and it'll be that part that reaches it's limit and hit. It's when you're cracking the shell that's when you know it's time to up the spring rate again / drive it slower on B roads!
The next softest thing being the shell!! Were all dooooomed!
lol ok, poly bushes it is.
Hope you get it sorted dude
Cheers dude, re painted the side of the gear box to night, waiting on drive shaft oil seals and a bag of 3M underseal to finish the repair in the arch. Then it's back on it wheels to see what's going on...
Good to see your still at it benn. I'm sure you'll get there soon enough.
Cheers Ben.
Got a bag of sealant today so cracked on with that. Coilover off, cleaned and rebuilt. Sealer mixed and painted on. (sorry the arch is filthy at the mo)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_1383.jpg
Still no drive shaft oil seals, getting pissed off now.
Was looking through this the other day and came across a picture with what i think was polish or wax..
Could you tell me what stuff it is and where i could buy some?
I thought sbs stocked the seals?
Yes, but what pic/stuff? I use a few polishes ans waxes....Quote:
Originally Posted by NathanKirkpatrick
He can get them....Quote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benn
Have the seals arrived yet ?
Posted Wednesday Royal Mail Recorded Delivery.
Steve
Sorry Steve, got them, about to fit them. Cheers.
Small update for today.
In the week i took my gear box mount to a welder/fab guy i know for him to check up and re-weld/beef the welds up. He said my welds weren't to bad, but gave me a few tips to get it up for a better weld, which i have now.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...0on/Mount2.jpg
Mount tig welded.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...0on/Mount1.jpg
Cleaned the holes up. Gave it a coat of paint and left it to dry.
There i moved to the repair i had to do in the inner arch. I last left it with the 3M sealant drying on it. So masked it up, gave it a fresh coat of Etch primer..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...rchrepair7.jpg
Then moved on to a bit of colour.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...rchrepair2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...rchrepair3.jpg
Next coat.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...rchrepair4.jpg
All lacquered and drying.( you can see my expensive specialist heater in the bottom right lol)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...rchrepair5.jpg
The mask i use while painting. It's a cheaper version of what i used at the body shop.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...rchrepair6.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...rchrepair8.jpg
There i moved on to stripping the coilover down again. Spring wasn't on as i was testing extremes, top mount off.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ercleanup3.jpg
Top cup of the top mount needed a repaint.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ercleanup2.jpg
New polished nyloc nut as i found this side likes to come undone..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...rchrepair1.jpg
Nylocs do make things hard..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ercleanup4.jpg
All built back up after a good clean.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ercleanup1.jpg
Then stood about and let the lacquer dry for a bit... Then got bored and de-masked the car, and started re fitting the shock.. With new paint in the background.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...chrepair10.jpg
Monday i'm gonna get the circlip grove move out a little to make sure i have move than enough movement on the shaft, then i can fit that and the new gear box seal. Then i can put it back on the ground.
not sure what page it was on but its the pic of the tub of wax on the roof and u cansee the reflection of the tub if that helps lol
by the way are u using gaz gha's or gold?
Are that will be Mirror Glaze by Megiuar's. It's very very good and long lasting. Very easy to use too.
GHA's extra short bodies with a few custom tweeks. As i wanted to run extra low.
Small update,
As i'm sick of the shaft and cv crap, I wanted to help it in anyway. So even after testing that i had good movement on the inner joint, i've had the circlip groove move out by 2mm.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_1410.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_1412.jpg
Fitted in to the shaft, the old one is the top one..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_1413.jpg
Built the shaft up and refitted it.. Washed and waxed the arches while i was there.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_1414.jpg
Refitted the wheel, now have the whole car jacked up as i need to change my alt..
Now a factory alt just doesn't look that nice, so with Dan's help i stripped it down and sent it to a man to make it sexy..
All getting rebuilt with new bearings, bushes and contacts.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...eAltbuild2.jpg
Got new bolts, which had to be cut and re tapped.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...eAltbuild4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...eAltbuild1.jpg
Casing was chromed, pulley and top arm.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...omebits1-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...omebits2-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...omebits3-1.jpg
But this left the middle bit looking dirty, so gave it a lick of etch primer..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_1416.jpg
Then a lil Arden blue.. To look better.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_1417.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_1418.jpg
Now i just gotta try and fit it, which really wont be easy :(
Wow!
Pure attention to detail!
Like I said yesterday, very impressive!
Cheers Martin.
love the alternator, something i need to do to mine as it doent look very nice how i painted it.
loving the attention to detail, but Benn will you ever be satisfied or have the week off? hope your well big fella
I painted one year back, after fitting and a few miles it looked poo. Then after seeing Matt's and a few other cars with them. Chrome just had to be done.Quote:
Originally Posted by brucer
Cheers dude :) I dont think i've ever satisfied with anything i do.. That's the prob. And i broke the CV before crimbo.. Had loads of waisted time off.Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkie1401
I'm all good you?
Another update.
Alternator swapping time.. From the top... Seems a bit of a waste chroming it now.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_1422.jpg
Found i need to get the shaft out to be even close to getting the alt out.. So i had to drop the car down, push it out, push it in but over to the other side..
Shaft out (bit easier as it's a half shaft) That wasn't enough the turbo oil feed was right in the way, so had to unbolt and push it to one side.. Or and unbolt the steering arm too :roll:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_1426.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_1427.jpg
Old and new...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_1428.jpg
Unbolt the nut was a **** hole! Nut was so tight, allen key in the shaft was just getting chewed up.. The brain wave!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_1430.jpg
Straight off!
Now years ago, i had a prob with the alt touching the chassis leg, so Dan turned (machined) down my pulleys,nut and shaft. Gave me a good clearance. So i wanted to show that...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_1431.jpg
Oh, then i noticed that it's all a bit different.
The old alt has a keyway, the new doesn't. So swapped everything over..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_1432.jpg
The shaft looks shorter which is good.
Pulleys looks a bit poo tho. So had to paint them. Didn't wanna chrome them as it might chip/break off when the belts on.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...n/IMG_1435.jpg
Will refit tomoz.
Nasty job with the xe inlet. I font envy you in having to do that. Does look nice tho