Cheers for the input guys
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Cheers for the input guys
JNC cough JNCQuote:
Originally Posted by scott.parker
im being thick here (lol ) but whatQuote:
Originally Posted by Jonlem
If it was me I just wouldn't be building such a high spec engine without having the engine to bits on a stand so I know everything, galleries included are all cleaned out, something you can't do with it in situ.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gareth_C
Not a fan of the cranks but then if it works ok for you then you can't complain, it wouldn't be on my spec sheet but thats why I chose not to use a xe for my own car a few years back.
I believe it was rolling roaded at JNC which to be fair you may as well just pluck some numbers out of thin air !Quote:
Originally Posted by Gareth_C
I don't disbelieve it was powerful but I think the power figure was slightly optimistic.
Thats besides the point anyway, from what I have seen Olly did do a fair bit of work by himself and turned out a great, if not a big ugly nova track car !
TBh mate I see where your coming from but the only reason the engine is in bits and the pistons replaced were on other peoples suggestions. when I drained the oil out I did through a filter I would use for work and will catch ridiculously small fm and it was clear so I have no reason to pull it to bits for the sake of a piston change. Unless anybody would have any other reason to do it. :thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonlem
That one thing I can be sure of Rs is tuning mine this year so I know the power figure will be pretty much bang on :thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonlem
I think its the fact you honed it in situ I wouldn't be overly happy with but its your engine, not mine lol
Looks good though mate, certainly got a few quid in it.
Cheers mateQuote:
Originally Posted by Jonlem
We're here to help, although I myself have little to offer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gareth_C
I think what Jonlem is trying to get at Gareth, is we don't want to see all your money and time invested in your pride and joy, and it go pop. Especially when it does have such potential. Not many people have the opportunity to do what you've done. So please make the most of it and do the best you can:thumb:
Cheers guys believe it not I know how it feels to blow and engine it up I did it twice at a cost of 5k :cry:Quote:
Originally Posted by db_1.2
So im over carefull this time :thumb:
Lol too much money Gareth! You taking it to any track days once it's complete?
Yeah mate I WILL be at pvs this year after missing it the last few year ill be at york raceway most of there meets and hopefgully ill get it back into TOTB againQuote:
Originally Posted by db_1.2
Cool, I might come to a Vaux event this year, now I don't own one! Hopefully meet a few people off here
Cool mate hopefully see you at oneQuote:
Originally Posted by db_1.2
where are your spring tops from btw matey? as ive had some fail from the same place you got your crank from...machined wrong for sure on ther taper but i dont think were hardened right either.
Hi mate the honest answer is I dont know I have bought the complete head off steve milton, but I know they wont be autosprint products from steve.Quote:
Originally Posted by philip
They will probably be piper then gareth.
Cheers DaveQuote:
Originally Posted by david dixon
Piper cams, springs, steel spring retainers, Arrow soild lifters, REC valves and colsibro valve guides.Quote:
Originally Posted by david dixon
Steve
Cheers for the update SteveQuote:
Originally Posted by steveboyslim
ah forgot you had the +2mm head off steve, proper bit of kit in that:D
Cheers Philip it should make for good drivingQuote:
Originally Posted by philip
update time.
my heated windscreen has turned up,with my brake lines, 4 way tee piece for the front lines off the pedal box. A pressure sensor for the brake lights.
a brand new set of valeo headlights and a set of euro lights from pie (cheers :thumb: )
Also the 1st fuel for the swirl pot
the start of the bits to make the 3" exhaust and the steel for the rear turrets so hopefully bey the weekend this should all be added to the car
But I have also decided that while its in bits im going to dry sump it so it will put the eta back a bit but should be finished for may
Cheers Gareth
been reading this one for a while, really like the spec, but i have to say, you need to change your thinking slightly imo
i’m all for the home brew, as anyone who knows me will tell you, but you are trying to get 275 bhp from a n/a two litre, not building a banger
i wasn’t going to say anything as you don’t seem to take constructive criticism well, but honing the bores in situ was the catalyst! the tolerances you are dealing with in a 2 ltr that will be revving to 9k with slipper pistons mean you need to get everything absolutely perfect or it will go wrong, those bores need to be honed properly on a proper machine and measured more accurately than a feeler gauge and a ring in a few places in the bore, friction is everything in an engine like this! and on that subject what about balancing? with the new rods and pistons i would wsnt to get the whole lot done, in my 1800 i even had the cams and pullies done as it sees 8600
also, won’t you want the block out to measure your compression ratio etc? you also imo need to get the block surface faced if you’re going to use a cometic gasket, they need a finish of 50 RA or finer and the cylinder pressures you will see mean you probably want to give the gasket all the help you can get!
what are going for c/r wise anyway? also the dry sump is a must so glad you've decided to go for that now too
this may seem like a long winded rant, but like i say, this is meant to be constructive, so hope you take it that way, as for me it would just be a shame to see some very nice components go to waste due to a little bit of missing attention to detail, it may cost a bit more than you hoped, but at the end of the day it will be worth it!
I feel the same as lee its like spending thousands on all the right parts then throwing it together for it to last five minutes.Quote:
Originally Posted by lee303
Needs sent to a engine builders in my eyes but keep up the good work
it needs measuring and machining properly, i see nothing wrong with assembling it yourself, but it does need more care imo, c/r needs to be bang on, as does the squish clearance, its not a whack the head on and its done engine!
Cheers for the commments Lee. Its not I dont accept the critisim im just missunderstood lol.
As you were asking the 275 was a bit optimistic i understand that realisticly in a optimistic world I would like 260bhp. Im replacing the block because after suggestions made in regards to the honing I gained advice from the chap who did the machining work the last time round and will have the correct bore finish etc. as for the balancing the bottom end was all balaced the last time and I was told that as long as all four pistons conrods etc all weight the same then it will be ok (but I will ask the question)
the comp ratio should be 12.5:1 and I was told that was done on the head side but the guy who does the maching for me is spot on and will keep it right.
The dry sump was going to be an addition at the end of the year but would mean distrubing cams etc so may aswell do it now :thumb:
Cheers stee see the reply for info :thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by nova_stee
well, i’m glad the build has changed direction somewhat, i would get the whole assembly balanced even if the rods and pistons are the same tbh, vibration free in bicester are the best there is, not cheap but well worth it when dealing with an engine like this imo
Do it right, do it once ! Gets expensive otherwise
cheers guys
12.5:1 :eek:
Thats how you will get the power, but longevity will be compromised - but then if you are chasing 250+ longevity isnt really a top priority...
Mine is 11.5:1 as it was built to stay flat out (oval racing) and still manages to get decent figures, so dont think that you have to ramp up the CR to chase these figures.
After all's said and done - I wouldnt even think about power - anything over 240 is awesome - and if you can get teh torque in a good place, then thats more important imo.
Plus whatever the power is, it will be different on different rollers/people wont believe the power/and you will only get upset if it isnt as high as you wanted it.
:)
it going on the same rollers speky's is done on will think there dinodynamics and i hope it dose get what he aiming for he put so much time money and effort and a lot of thort in to it
Sadly Dyno Dynamics rollers are very accurate so expect to be dissapointed if its not specced perfectly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny s-p
If you read through Giles's thread on Mig you will see how much time/effort and money he put in yet it still took several attempts to get past 260hp.
I have no doubt the spec is good but its the smaller details that make that last bit of difference.
12.5 is ok tbh, giles was at 12.6, its not too excessive, certainly not for something you will only run on decent fuel, but its how you get the c/r thats important, contrary to popular belief a massive intruder piston into the chamber will not do the flame front any favours...Quote:
Originally Posted by Will F
what gearbox you going to run? as that will have a big an effect on how well the car goes as the engine imo
Its going on a F28 lee
really wants a straight cut box weather its like mine sccr f20 quaife gear set or sumit like lee has a dog box, f28 just seems a waste and i dont think will take the high revs! (changing gear etc) f28s are unreliable all are old and parts and pretty few and far between bearings etc!
hmm, well the synchros wont cope with the revs, thats for sure, even on a sccr box they struggle, a good second pause against the gate sometimes to let the box slow down a little to stop them crunching in giles' cav, but at least then the ratios are suitable for the engines probable power characteristics,the ratios are too far apart on the f28 so you may even drop off cam between gearchanges, really it wants a dog box
Gaz'd ran a F28 in the end as they kept blowing F20's to pieces, in fairness though in took the revs but then it also had probably upwards of 300lbft to drive it through the gears which this won't have.
I have a brand new Quaife gearkit sitting here, still wrapped as supplied from Quaife £1000