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no no no... errr lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dar
I read your statement wrong... I didn't power it up first........... I just plugged it in, connected all the plugs that connected, and then tried.Quote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
It cranked over OK though, does that prove anything?
Obviously didn't start, as I'd switched fuel pumps off, HT leads were off, and TPS was off
On with bits to be done, throttlebodies pretty much sorted now
HT leads connected to coilpack, and mounted, trumpets are on
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0507.jpg
Fuel lines in place, with FPR on return line in between rail and swirl pot, Fuel pumps now on standalone fused switches
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0508.jpg
Used original battery thread to mount home made FPR bracket, nice and sturdy
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0509.jpg
On with the seatbar fitting, cut some plates to weld in prior to bars
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0510.jpg
Welded 4x little plates in... first one was a bit on the big side lol
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0511.jpg
Spirit level tells me what I want to hear, both side to side, and front to back
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0512.jpg
Almost in, just need to drill the bars now, and find some nuts & bolts
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0513.jpg
Cool.
Those trumpets poking out the bay look awesome :D
Just use socks over the trumpets, filter socks, not real ones lol
very tidy car your building here :thumb:
ive always loved those seats, sooo jealous
Or just run filterless.
Fine for track use(if it'll pass noise regs)
Just dont do any off roading lol
very very nice...
just get's better and better :cool:
seat's are awsome too
meh.. go away.. moms gonna hate my christmas wish list..
Top trump mods there dude..
heavy hit after heavy hit after..
Well i've just read through all 42 pages and wow....hell of a car this is shaping up to be! Looked to be a bloody minter of a base :D
Nice to see you doing a Nova again Olly, Ragga was such a brilliant car for so many reasons!
I'm hoping to come up to Donny on the 27th with a few of 'my lot' for spectating purposes so will make sure I come and show my face!
(This is AL by the way ;))
Looking good mate :)
FYI Filter socks are possibly the worst thing to use, unless your trying to restrict the power that is !
Run it WITH a filter unless you want to risk your engine.
People don't drive round in normal cars with no air filters so why would running a set of tb's without one be any safer lol
Input shaft is fixed I'm afraid - looks like it's box out again !!!!
Dave
make sure you get the distance you need between the top of the trumpets to the inside of the filter
Elgan - have a 125mm (deep) filter coming, so that's cool, had a 100mm one that I sold on, you need 30mm clearence iirc is recommended.
Dave - no worries, thought as much, altho i know a chap with a Quaife SC gear set in his F20, and input shaft is removable as its an OE item, so I guess I was hoping lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
I might be getting confused with a Dog Box Gear kit -I KNOW they are gear train out !! - might be worth taking the end plate off and having a look - just to save yourself 3.5 hours :) - Although It would be easier just to pull the Gear train out and then slide the clutch out through the inspection hole, and then refit the gear train !!! Should only take about an hour !!!
Dave
We'll whip off the end plate to start with then...
So even if its not removable shaft, you still reckon its easier to slide the hole lot out, rather than box off jobbie?
If so, please do tell :)
Much easier if your doing in on the floor at home - no need to remove driveshafts / wrestle with the box etc
Turret off (4 bolts), reverse switch out, unbolt gear train - don't even have to unbolt the end cover - and remove gear train
It you were forward thinking when you did your conversion, you may have modified the n/s chassis leg to allow the gear train to slide out without catching the bottom lip of the leg - although you probably haven't done this so may have to drop the n/s gearbox mount to get clearance
With the geartrain out - the cluch can be removed in the usual manner
Just means you will have to catch the gearbox oil in a tub to reuse and may want to buy a new gearbox gasket
Dave
i have done one with that method before and it is very easy
Sounds good to me! Sounds reletively easy to do... I'll let you know how I got on
Great progress today, OllyTB came over to give me hand with clutch change/ gearbox off, but decided not to do it as it was too cold lol
Instead we got the throttlebodies sorted, loom stripped back, fault finded, and sorted, throttle linkage built up and fitted (thanks to Olly, as I'd given up on it), and it runs! what a noise i've missed...
Also the ECU started talking to the computer, which is good news
No pics tho - Turner wouldn't allow a camera anywhere near the car lol
I had every intention of doing the box in what was described as " a heated garage" the only heat source was the bloody inspection lamp!
Anyways, the throttle linkage is now fitted and works perfectly, much better than the SBD bodge, improvised throttle pot connection to get it running and the regulator patched up until some bits arrive. We essentailly manged to prove it all works and runs just needs tidying up now. It was just lots and lots of little things that needed sorting.
As for the clutch i'll come back and do that when there's an inferno of a heat source and a skantily clad wench to serve both drinks and errrr anyway, you get the picture!
Godd day all round!
I think there is every possibility that you are both a pair of pansies lol
Glad that loom worked though, myself and dar were worried you were going to toast your ECU by rushing it!
lol lol lol lol lol lolQuote:
Originally Posted by OllyTB
I think of you like a wench when I'm in bed mate
Any chance in a video once the TB's are on? :)
Hows it going?, be ready for 27th?
Still going for the 27th, however looks unlikely that'll have it ready for on the track.
Received a few bits that I've been waiting for - just need to do drivers rail and clutch before the day really, TBs are up and running, however not set up yet.
Got 3x new gauges, 306 hatch wiper arm, 60mm steering wheel spacer & snap off boss all ready to go on too
Sounds good, where'd you get the snap off boss from?
shock horror - update on the nova lol not touched it in 10 days - longest since i started the project back in february i think
not a great deal, but its the fiddly bits that take the time, drivers seat bars now in and drilled, took a bit of time getting the straight level and parallel on my tod, but got there in the end, mounted the passenger lower down and further back
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0514.jpg
dry mounted the subframes to check holes - spot on
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0515.jpg
both of them in
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0516.jpg
the "ears" clear the windows by about 5mm either side, which is good, and they wouldn't overlap in the middle, should I want them side by side
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0517.jpg
can see here the staggered seating
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0518.jpg
made a servo vacuum to inlet manifold pipe, with the one way valve, and opted for the red plug cover again
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q...ure/nc0519.jpg
Tomorrows task is to remove seats again, respray interior, and remove box for clutch replacement :)
wow good work..
why the "staggerd" seats tho?
Martin
With the seats being so big, with the ears etc, I wanted a dead clear view of the passenger side wing mirror for one. Also, with it still being road legal, it helps at junctions that I can look across out the passenger window without a problem.
I could have them side by side, as the side mounts do have 7" adjustment on them from front to back.
I've mounted the drivers seat more centrally to the car, and pointing "in" a little, so now I'm directly behind the pedals and the wheel, rather than the standard seating position
Also putting the passenger as far back as possible helps put a bit more weight rearwards.
Nice seats :)
i see now, sounds simple enough, but if you dont ask you'l never find out
update tonight, removed the bastid stud that was by the alternator by welding the nut to the top of the stud and then removing it like a bolt, also managed to fit the standard inlet manifold water temp probe into the throttlebody inlet.
also tried to get it running after that but it was causing us a head ache to try and keep the TPS voltage to 0.37v, and the site map at 0, as this wouldn't idle, we had to crank up the idle voltage to 0.55v to keep it idling at around 1000rpm, which wasn't ideal - because that made the ign site map @ 2
come to the conclusion that it might be down to the fact that I am using late XE blue injectors, and not creams, so I wil swap them over tomorrow and try again.
You are using the map Dar gave you arnt you?
Apart from that i cant help as theyre useless SBD bodies, not proper QED ones :)
Both made by Jenvey ! lol
Were using Dars map on both cars at the mo so we know its not that.
I'll be over in the nova in the morning mate, get that kettle on !
Just to rub salt in the wound a bolted my bodies to chris's engine and once id put a set of decent plugs in it it purred like a kitten lol
no pansie tps voltage crap to deal with lol
Perfect for Lee then:thumb:Quote:
Originally Posted by trackdaynova
Best results I've personally known someone to have were on the crappy old dcoe looking Jenveys so I've got nothing against any of them.
I'll bring my laptop tomorrow and try and find that proper map for when we do get it running, I wont be putting it on Ads as I think that engine is poorly enough lol
she runs fandiddlytastic! absolutely puuurrrrrrfect lol
big thanks to JB, found there was a problem with my ECU that JB managed to fix, regardless of having an identical map as Dar, and the same on JBs, mine wansn't playing ball...
put my ECU in JBs car, and it acted the same as mine - so must have been a firmware change or glitch, but all sorted now on SBD base map...
Dar - what ECU do you have? mine is 967ED, JB's is 967EF... just curious...
anyway, she starts and ticks over sweet now, revs up very easily and freely...
Now all thats needed, is clutch change... then purchase of cams, big manifold, and finally a mapping session :)
Thanks again Jonboy!
Cool :)
Good stuff Oli, should be a monster when back on the track. :cool: