*HOW TO* Fit an F28 to a big block nova

The fitment of an F28 is a great mod for a turbo conversion as it is a much stronger box and the 6th gear makes driving and top end performance effortless. However, people shy away because it will not sit on the normal mounts used for a nova big block conversion. There are also other considerations for this conversion.

The parts you will need for the conversion can be obtained from www.chrisastleymotorsport.co.uk.

What will be covered in this guide:-

- Swapping the Speedo Drive
- Re-tapping the F28 Housing for the Nova Rear Mount
- Converting the F28 to 2wd
- Lining Up & Fitting the Front Gearbox Mount
- Lowering the Tie Bars
- Modifying the Gear Linkage
- Radiator Pipe Considerations

contd.

Swapping the Speedo Drive

To get your nova speedo to work, whether running standard or digidash, you will need to swap the speedo ring on the diff. To do this the box needs to be split. This can be a tricky job, especially getting back together and lined up, so if you're not confident it might be best to get a specialist to do it.

What you're doing is swapping this blue plastc ring for a black one as found in the f20 & f16.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...P1010052-1.jpg


Contd.

Re-tapping the F28 Housing for the Nova Rear Mount

In order for the nova rear gearbox mount to bolt up to the box you will need to have these 3 holes tapped to match the mount bolts. It maybe a good idea to get this done while you have the gearbox in bits to fit the speedo ring as it will be easy to work on as a casing rather than big heavy box!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...d/P3110086.jpg

If you havn't already the mount itself needs to be modified for big block use. Please see the guide here:- http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90103


Contd.

Converting the F28 to 2wd

You will need to convert the box from 4wd to 2wd using the parts in this kit:- http://www.chrisastleymotorsport.com...949dbc389f1132. A fitting guide comes included.


Contd.

Lining Up & Fitting the Front Gearbox Mount


You will need this mount kit for this conversion:- http://www.chrisastleymotorsport.com...949dbc389f1132

This task is easiest done with an engine brace but can be done without using a jacks, etc stands etc.

Firstly, drill out the old mount and clean up the area with a grinder...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../28-12-071.jpg

Drop the engine and box into the car with it bolted up to the front engine mount and rear gearbox mount. You will need to use the engine brace or jacks to then get the engine to sit level...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../28-12-075.jpg

You can then bolt up your bracket and mounts into position then weld on...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../28-12-076.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../28-12-078.jpg


Contd.

Lowering the Tie Bars

You will also need to lower your tie bars to clear the box. They need lowering on the arms and at the crossmember.

The easiest way to lower at the arms is plate the arm (for strength) then run spacer blocks (around 25-30mm iirc) as so...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...s/DSC00543.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...02-03-2008.jpg


The fronts as you can see by the pic above, you can extend the top mount hole then run a spacer block (I ran 25mm). The pic below shows the 1st set I done and ran on my nova I just took off the top and welded a new bit on with the hole 25mm higher (slightly elongated for adjustment). My latest nova has the ones picyured above where the top was chopped off, a section welded on and elongated so that if I wish, they can be run in incriments up to 25mm or even standard.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../140420071.jpg


The rose-jointed versions Chris Astley sells also do the job but with the benefit of the stronger bearing:- http://www.chrisastleymotorsport.com...949dbc389f1132


Contd.

Modifying the Gear Linkage

The gear linkage needs a chunk taken out of it and re-welding, on the long section that goes to the top of the box. 30mm needs taking out.

Standard...

http://www.valvers.com/20xe/images/2...ageoutside.jpg
(Picture Courtesy of Valvers.com)

Modified (Ignore the threaded bar and rose-joints)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...d/P2020068.jpg


To set the linkage up you can't use the drill bit method, its a case of trial & error. I held the stick inside the car in where I thought neutral would be and then got someone to tighten it up. A few attempts and it was fine. If you find you can't get all gears ok you can either shave down the white block on your gearstick to give more throw or knock one side of the contact housing out, again to give more throw.


Contd.

Radiator Pipe Considerations

Another consideration is your rad position.

In the standard position the normal pipe fouls like so...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../180307122.jpg

Easiest way round it is to move the rad to the middle of the car and then you can use the existing water pipe but with the middle cut out and a straight tube inserted. Most people do this as it also allows your intercooler pipes to run down either side of the rad.

I had to work round this on my old one due to my oil cooler position and lack of space so I made a new water hose and modified the mount...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../060420074.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...0604200711.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../060420077.jpg

But if you want to move the rad to the middle of the car then do the following...

So turbo into place...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../29-09-081.jpg


Take a couple of the original mount rubber and chop the little bits off...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...t/29-09-08.jpg


Put the rad into place in the middle and drill two respective holes...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../29-09-082.jpg

Its hard to see from the pic but I drilled a whole in the slam panel and put a long bolt thru that goes to the old fan shroud mounting point. This will then pull and hold the rad as far forward as it needs to be. You also need to make sure it comes far enough forward so that when the bonnet comes down the hook doesn't foul on the top of the rad. You made need to remove the rubber mount on the passenger side to sit it lower.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../29-09-083.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../29-09-084.jpg


On then goes the fan and as you can see it all clears...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../29-09-085.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../29-09-086.jpg