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joeSRI
16-06-08, 11:09 AM
my new wheels scrub on the rear so the arches need modifying, is this an easy job or should i let the pro's do it?

craig green
16-06-08, 12:47 PM
What size wheels? what offset? What width?

Tbh any effort at folding the lip or grinding it back will end in tears IMO.

Find some proper wheels that fit without scrubbing. Thats the answer.

joeSRI
16-06-08, 02:50 PM
They are 195/45/15 i am unsure of the offset and its lowered about 60mm. Its only just catching by the noises.

Dod
16-06-08, 02:58 PM
You need to find out what offset it is mate. Cant accurately help you otherwise.

joeSRI
16-06-08, 03:03 PM
will do later cheers

dan16v
16-06-08, 03:55 PM
doesnt 195/45 rubber on even et49 catch a standard arch lip? i know my friends used to on his mo's under hard cornering!
Just take a grinder to the arch lip, but make sure you leave enough metal to retain some strength and seal them well or else they will rust in no time!
or get them rolled by a proper company/body shop-->(best idea).

as has been said though, tell us your offset to make sure your not trying run run some thing silly!:thumb:

big gra
16-06-08, 03:58 PM
get a bodyshop to roll them for you mate. iv ebought novas were people have either tried it themselver or cut the arches, ends up as rust!!

joeSRI
16-06-08, 04:25 PM
they are ET40.

Dod
16-06-08, 05:48 PM
No good....

You need at least a et45 to get any sort of clearence. You'd need to widen the whole arch if you want those to fit. Sorry dude!!

ck
16-06-08, 06:30 PM
with the lips rolled my mate used to run my old oz super tourismo wrc's. they were et38 (could have been et36) running 195/50/15's and they did not rub once he rolle the lip..

joeSRI
17-06-08, 02:14 PM
thanks CK, was going to say i got them off a mates old nova but i didn't see what he did to the arches

craig green
17-06-08, 02:46 PM
Stretching or flaring the arches out ruins the lines of the body though.

Why not have the rear faces of the wheel hub milled down by 5mm or so? That would make them closer to the correct offset.

Paul
17-06-08, 03:02 PM
http://www.diracdelta.co.uk/science/source/h/a/hammer/clubhammer.jpg

craig green
17-06-08, 03:12 PM
Cheap hammer!

Rexy
17-06-08, 03:15 PM
If you want to do it yourself get a hammer and dolly. Make sure you get a curved panel hammer and gently tap the arch lip. If you smack it it will crack the paint so becareful. Start with the very edge of the lip you will be able to knock it up enough to stop it scrubing and without cracking your paint.

if you feel confident, do it yourself if not get a bodyshop to do it because if they **** the paint up they will have to paint it.

Make sure you remove all the crap hidden under the lip first, and if the arches are not of a sound condition don't botheR AS YOU WILL END UP MAKING A MESS.

Dod
17-06-08, 04:10 PM
5mm seems to be an aweful to remove from the hub though, I'd say 3mm MAX, you might be able to have 2mm removed from the Wheel as well, but make sure the engineering firm are happy to do this, they may even be able to alloy fill the stud holes to compensate for whats been removed.

Or, just get a set of wheels with an et49.

craig green
17-06-08, 04:29 PM
5mm seems to be an aweful to remove from the hub though, I'd say 3mm MAX, you might be able to have 2mm removed from the Wheel as well, but make sure the engineering firm are happy to do this, they may even be able to alloy fill the stud holes to compensate for whats been removed.

Or, just get a set of wheels with an et49.

I meant the wheels. I Used 'wheel hub' to idiot proof my statement.

Rear wheel mounting face is what I meant. :thumb:

dan16v
17-06-08, 07:16 PM
Just get the wheels machined, thats what i done! (for some reason two of my wheels were a different off set!)

Dod
17-06-08, 08:02 PM
Surely theres a limit to what can be removed from the wheel though?

joeSRI
18-06-08, 12:32 PM
Who would machine them for me?

Dod
18-06-08, 01:07 PM
Any engineering firm, someone that supplies I Beams and Sheet tin.