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View Full Version : Auto choke revs...



ade
03-06-08, 12:57 AM
As some know I recently picked up a 1.3SR and it has an auto choke.

Now I'm not used to these my prev nova was manual.

So can anyone tell me what it should idle at from cold?

Seems awfully high - sits at 2500revs for a while till car gets going them settles back to 900. Is 2500 normal?

Ade

leenovagsi
03-06-08, 01:50 AM
if you got haynes manual section 3.2 if not it says fast idle speed can be up to 4000 !! that seems high but its in the book

Welsh Dan
03-06-08, 08:22 AM
With the 'right' setting on my manual choke it can idle up to 2500 rpm or so.

ade
03-06-08, 07:58 PM
now it gone bonkers! Its sitting at 4k and I have to stick it in gear and brake to keep the car under control.

need to condult haynes...At 4k the engines screaming at me - cant be good for fuel consumption - even if its only for a short period.

Welsh Dan
03-06-08, 08:05 PM
Air leak?

General Baxter
03-06-08, 08:20 PM
its the spring in the auto choke, id do a manual conversion tbh

ade
03-06-08, 09:07 PM
how can I fix it short term till after PV?

Will is settle down once engine warms up?

Also will this have affected it - I changed the water bottle as the prev one was split - just disconnected the hoses, proped them up to no spillage then fitted a new bottle - poured the existing reservoir into the new bottle and topped it up.

Also fitted led's in the dash as the bulbs were sh1te (read somewhere that if rev counter isnt connected properly can affect engine)?

hagger
03-06-08, 09:47 PM
when i had the origanal carb on my SR it use to idle quite high when on choke, after a while it didnt idle well at all. get it changed for a weber 32/34 DTML carb, thats what i have now with a manual choke, loads loads better then the standard carb.

ade
03-06-08, 10:14 PM
I actually have a 32/34 cool

hagger
03-06-08, 10:20 PM
youll probs need a adapter plate so it fits the manifold, then jetting. luckily when i got mine, it was brand new in box and was the kit for a 1300, got it for 60squid, bargin :P

ade
04-06-08, 12:14 AM
the one I have is for a 1.4. Although the manifold was warmed on the old engine. Got a 2nd hand manifold that I know works and had been filed to allow better air intake on the mounting plate...

Still need a quick fix though before PV...

Anyone? or does it need it...

mikey14sr
04-06-08, 10:57 AM
If the current carb on the 1.3 is a 2E3 the 32/34 will bolt onto the manifold thats there with the adapter plate, which is a lot easier than changing the manifold. the hardest part of the conversion is getting the choke cable into the dash, past all the crap behind it and through the bulkhead.

The divider that's left in the way on the manifold does disturb the airflow a bit, but there's never been any instruction to purposly remove it in the conversion kit. For a car where absolute power isn't an issue it's not worth removing.

The kit I had was supposedly for a 1.4, but even on the 1.3 block the jets needed drilling out, due to weber jets not being made as well as they used to be apparrently. Instead of checking every one that's made, they only check a sample per batch nowadays, so there's bound to be some under/oversized ones in a batch of each size.

tom_beverley
04-06-08, 11:42 AM
This time of year Ade I wouldn't even bother with the choke if changing to a 32/34 DMTL, I know its always raining and cold in Scotland but... lol

Get it slapped on, it will probably take less time to do than fiddling with the auto choke, especially if you have the 2e3 on currently :)