Unknown objects on 16SE

[Iain]

Right so I'm changing my inlet manifold from an E16SE item to a C16SE item. It's already a C16SE head so we don't need to worry about the exhaust recirculation thinggy.

However the old inlet has this "spaceship" thing on it, whereas the new one doesn't have an outlet for it:

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm85/iainel/Spaceship.jpg

This was a bit different on the old one + new one too - what is it and what does it do?

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm85/iainel/Fuelrail.jpg

Finally this was under my inlet, and I assume I'll need to keep it for the coolant hoses to match up properly. But what does it do?

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm85/iainel/UnderInlet.jpg

Thanks, I'd be searching my Haynes for answers but I've put it somewhere extremely safe, so safe I can't find it. :cry:

[Adam]

Coasting air valve-Leans the mix under certain conditions i think. Probably run ok without it

Fuel pressure regulator- Are you using your old injectors? The reg pressure may be differernt so id try and keep your old rail/regulator/injectors.

Fook knows what that is, is it just like a chamber thing that coolant passes through?

[Iain]

Ok will bin the coasting air valve as there's nowhere to plug it in on the new inlet.

Have bolted on the old injectors and fuel rail, so all good there!

Yeah just a hose at both ends, one hose from the heater matrix goes to it and the other wanders off elsewhere. Got a temp sensor on it too, but no idea what the little air valve things are. lol

Thanks Ad....I wonder if my car will ever run again. lol

[Adam]

There cut off aren't they? So fook them,lol

If that metal thing does nothing, just remove it and join the pipes.
The c16 inlet has the temp sensor on the inlet itself? So no probs there

[Iain]

Yeah the inlet has its own temp sensor. Good idea, I might remove the "metal thing" since the C16 inlet doesn't have proper mountings underneath for it.

[mikey14sr]

That water block thing has got a coolant temp sensor for the engine management in it, if you've got one on the side of the head under the dizzy/coil pack you won't need it.

[Iain]

Great cheers, I might bypass it then. The car started up and ran fine without the coasting air valve (spaceship) and FPR fed straight to the end of the inlet. :thumb:

Final issue is the fat S shaped hose connecting to the waterpump and plastic pipe behind the block. The small hose coming off it for the inlet won't reach:

Here you can see where the hose needs to reach, I'm pointing to the hose itself.

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm85/iainel/ShortHose.jpg

How are these routed on a C16SE?

[craig green]

Why are you swapping inlet?

[Iain]

The alternator tensioner bracket bolt sheared off in the inlet. I've been running around with the bracket wedged against the head and a shorter belt as a temp fix.

Because of its position you can't drill it out when in place so I figured I'd tart up a spare inlet I've got and do a straight swap - didn't think they'd be too much different.

This is the best I can do with the hose lol

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm85/iainel/ShortHose2.jpg

[Adam]

Hmmm, if the other hose in tht pic, going to the tb has coolant in too, then you will need fit that one in the pic(else it'll obviously leak)

Either extend the hose, or remove both those small hoses and clamp bolts in the end to block them off.

[Iain]

Will there be no side effects from blocking both hoses? Would it be feasible to just join them together instead of going through the inlet then?

What's the best way to extend or join 2 hoses together anyway?

[Adam]

Oh yes, thats a good plan. lol
Just join them together(thats all the tb does, its just a gallery)

A little bit of copper pipe or something to join them?
OR, do you have the c16 tb? Cut that brass coolant pipe stub off it, and use that?

[meritlover]

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm85/iainel/UnderInlet.jpg


the top sensor is for the dash gauge temp (NOT the ECU sensor)

the bottom right is a temperature actuated vacuum switch, the wax stat opens at a certain temp and allows the vacuum signal to operate things, cant remember what it might be EGR but not sure.

you could ideally junk it and use a longer hose or straight thru pipe. but you would be as well installing it properly.

you could blank/bypass the water feeds to the TB, theyre not really necessary, and cold,denser air in the plenum is always better. its just there to prevent JT cooling and icing. but not really likely to occur.

vac reference to FPR should be plumbed in to the plenum (downstream side of the TB)

[mikey14sr]

Ahh, I had mistaken the vac switch for the ecu temp sensor :wall:

[Iain]

Thanks Meritlover. When you talk about the FPR, is this right? Or should it go to the bottom of the tb?

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm85/iainel/VacuumHose.jpg

[meritlover]

that is fine, it may not be correct as per how it left the factory, but as long as it references to MAP it is functioning as it should.

[Adam]

The vacuum pipes merit lover mentioned go to the egr.

[craig green]

The alternator tensioner bracket bolt sheared off in the inlet. I've been running around with the bracket wedged against the head and a shorter belt as a temp fix.

Because of its position you can't drill it out when in place so I figured I'd tart up a spare inlet I've got and do a straight swap - didn't think they'd be too much different.

This is the best I can do with the hose lol



Should've just sorted another the same IMO. I've got 2 spare, ones powder coated yellow.

[Mike]

Ianiel, the hose youve got thats to short, i have one spare if you need one mate :thumb:

[Iain]

Should've just sorted another the same IMO. I've got 2 spare, ones powder coated yellow.

Didn't realise they were different until I started the swap. At least I learnt something by looking in to this stuff! The rest of the engine's a C16SE anyway so at least it's not so mismatched anymore!

Cheers Mike, I've extended the short hose so should be good to go now, lets hope it doesn't leak. lol