Twin 40 alternator lowering

[beavy69]

Im just fitting some DCOEs and dont have the alternator bracket. I intend to lower the original (below) by way of a plate with four holes in. Does anyone know how much it has to lower the alternator by?

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d149/beavy69/altbrak.jpg

i.e. the distance between the centres of holes a) and b) below:

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d149/beavy69/plate.jpg

thanks,

Tim.

[Adam]

BEst just trying it and adjusting

[mowgli]

remember, if you go to a bearing supplier, you can get belts in all shapes & sizes, don't struggle with trying to fit a gm one

[beavy69]

Thanks I hadnt thought of them. I was thinking I'll probably have to rob my 1.2 belt as they are a bit longer iirc. If not il check em out.

Adam I think thats the only option. Im just going to attach alt to bracket and offer up under the carbs and measure roughly and then drop another cm or something to make sure. Was just ondering if anyone knew the exact amount.

[Novasport]

I can get you a Nova Sport type belt, about ?10 plus postage if you are interested. They are very good quality replacement belts.
Rich

[Philsutton]

I think when I did mine it was 35mm I did mine, but I cant remember if that was on the xe or the 1400 lol

[beavy69]

Well, Ive done it! They are working beautifully. I used some 12mm Alu plating and moved the original braket down by 7cm from hole centre to hole centre (I enlarged the holes on the bracket slightly to bolts approx 2mm larger in diameter as these were the strongest I had for mounting the original braket to the new lowering plate) This gave me the perfect ammount of room to tension the original belt! :-)

I also needed a throttle cable bracket so I made one using the spare wheel retaining braket I had removed for ftiment of my amp, together with one for a Pierburg carb lol

Pics to follow, thanks for the advice all

[beavy69]

Alu plate:

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d149/beavy69/DSC_00031.jpg

I bent the spare wheel bracket and added new holes to bolt to the carb/manifold studs and then bolted a cable bracket from another carb to that:

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d149/beavy69/DSC_00032.jpg

[beavy69]

The 32/34 choke cable was simply extended with garden wire and new throttle springs were tensioned by attaching to a hole in a large washer that I've bolted to the twin K+N filter plate I made:

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d149/beavy69/DSC_00035.jpg

All works fine Im very pleased.

[Nick]

haha looks interesting !

Keep an eye on that cable setup, it's probably worth buying some proper twin linkages eventually. The force needed to pull the butterflies open on a pair of 40's is more than a standard carb, i've allways had problems with the cables wearing through on "kinks", and it looks like you've got a prime rubbing point where the cable kinks out the bottom of that grommet

And you shouldn't need to use the choke !

[Adam]

Nice work, it fits well.

As Nick said, you dont need the choke mechanism.

[beavy69]

Yeah i found that, just makes things worse at any temp lol. Although has made purely starting the car easier on the colder days so im not too upset I spent some time setting it up.