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View Full Version : Max bhp out of 1.4SRi?



mikesri
31-07-02, 11:44 PM
Whats the most bhp do u think i could get out of my K-reg 1.4 sri? I've got a filter and zorst on it at the mo? 80 bhp at the mo? Any 1 got any ideas cos i'm not sure!!

MC
01-08-02, 09:14 AM
130ish bhp.

Ben (lurk75)
01-08-02, 06:34 PM
all depends on how reliable you want it! if you want to just use it on weekends you can push it right up but if you want to go to work and back everyday dont do so much to it.

I am putting in the 1600 16v and this is about 100bhp but can be easily put up to 130, but can be taken upto about 220BHP

mikesri
01-08-02, 06:45 PM
I do use 4 work every day, and want it 2 be reliable. what other sort of things can i do 2 it and not have 2 worry if its going 2 breakdown??? My m8 ( Dan 16v ) has a weber boost valve 4 sale would this be worth buying and would it make much difference?

Ben (lurk75)
01-08-02, 06:51 PM
i think that its the 1400 engine that responds best to head work? this shouldnt affect the reliability that much.

mikesri
01-08-02, 06:58 PM
I've heard that if i port and polish a 1.4 head it de- restricts it cos they r fairly well restricted as stndard? Would cams do any good?

Ben (lurk75)
01-08-02, 07:10 PM
i was always told that cams are better for top speed increase and dont help with pick up??? and was always told this is what starts the unreliability off.

Not my input just what have been told.

mikesri
01-08-02, 11:01 PM
ur probably right m8 i dont know alot about what affects what. it does sound shit hot though when the exhaust makes that bubbling sound when its cam'd up. i've found that my car has 1 hell of an induction roar that nothing i've found can beat!! But with only a 1.4i it doesn't quite have that 2.0 16v pull!!!!

dan16v
01-08-02, 11:09 PM
cams dont affect reliability you know that! my mulllered 1600 ran a piper grp a cam for a year with no probs!
get the head work done de cat it and find out if gavs old throttle bodie (gsi) is any bigger may work??
i reckon 100bhp is sensible use ure push bike 4 work gym boy!!

mikesri
01-08-02, 11:21 PM
Yeah i suppose, cant ride a bike 2 work i wouldn't want my muscles popping out of my t shirt. i think that the cams would be expensive 4 mine as i've got the DIS pack?

dan16v
01-08-02, 11:46 PM
no its 250 same ish as dizzy spec! y dont u just buy some twin 40s?
sell the push bike and the gay 125! oh yea n take all your interior n roof lining out and have no heater only sum one silly wuld do that surly???!!!

mikesri
01-08-02, 11:58 PM
Yeah only a dickhead would take roof lining out so that when u get in the car it sound's like ur gettin in a baked bean can and winding the lid back on!!!!!! As 4 the bike its up 4 sale 4 ?800 and i might have found a buyer. i'd never sell the push bike i use it 2 much!!!!!!! Its about time u got ur car sorted and ready 4 spraying!!

MC
02-08-02, 09:57 AM
I managed to get my 1.4SR running 130bhp, and it was reliable. I used Zorst, manifold, cam, head, 40's etc. I think the 1.4SRi head is better than the 1.4SR. It has larger round ports. It used to start first time every time with no nead for choke. The onlt times I ever broke down were running out of peterol, and missing a gear change which said goodbye to the 1.4 :(

rgv_stu
02-08-02, 12:04 PM
which head did u use mc to get 130bhp??

MC
02-08-02, 12:18 PM
1.4SR Blydestein B pack

mikesri
02-08-02, 04:27 PM
How much was the head?

MC
02-08-02, 04:37 PM
I bought that second hand off CP cheap, but I think it's about 560ish for the B+ (best out there).

mikesri
02-08-02, 04:53 PM
I guess thats good value if u've got the money at the time. i might just get sum cams 4 the mo and see how it runs. I'm hopefully pickin a yaris rear wiper up this weekend, they look the poodles plums on the back of a nova. they dont wipe fuck all but they look good!!!! Also hopefully gettin a rear bumper with moulded in diffuser. Should look good i hope?

dan16v
02-08-02, 06:39 PM
it will look roy bacerish! but then again u r a boy racer! what other things shall i take out grind off to make my car lighter?!!
got to order my fibreglass wings n bonnet soon :roll:
so far..not one peice of carpet in car, no roof lineing, no fuel tank gunna use fuel cell the thing will blow away!
id get the modified head m8!

mikesri
02-08-02, 09:57 PM
Nah fuck the engine at the mo I'll go 4 looks as it wont cost anything on insurance. And heads will turn more 4 looks than speed.

dan16v
02-08-02, 10:01 PM
lol @the all show and no go!! looking phat and bein done by my mums fiesta! nice id rather hav the power n e day! like b4 my car went in to body shop tape all ova it cained a pug 406 coupe! twat! :lol:

brian
03-08-02, 05:16 PM
mike you WILL get P****D off with no power. it only takes a while. everyone is the same at first. i was like you 3 r 4 years ago and after 4months of 1400sr power the different transplants started. :D :D :D

mikesri
03-08-02, 11:28 PM
Yes but when u pay ?1500 tpft on insurance with 9 points u cant really afford 2 do much 2 the engine!!!!!! My new bumpers look well fat and low as low as ur mum's standards!! and they dont cost a thing on insurance!!! and i still have the induction roar!!

Bullwinkle
04-08-02, 10:10 PM
Not being funny mate but why bother tuning the SRI lump, if more power is what you really want then do a swap, as you will probably find that a 2.0 L 16V swap will cost the same as a 1.4 SRI with cams, intake, magic tree's.

Just a word of warning, insurance also gets effected by body work alterations, so if you disclose it then your premiums are still going up.

Save your money for somthing worth while like modifying a pram (sweet set of 3 inch rims and a nice frilly bonnet for that light weight racing pram look) The reason i say this is becasue all show and no go is pretty gay, when you get butt raped by a guy in a 1.6 mundano filled with kids and the wife then your going to feel and look pretty stupid. A friend plowed ??? on engine mods for his stupid rustbucket SR and it was no faster.

If you want better performance, loose body weight. Rear seats, ICE, spare wheel, engine :)

Bullwinkle

Slatter
04-08-02, 11:41 PM
Go for looks and Power. Buy some twin 40's for it, Better noise than induction "roar" lol

Have a nice looking car that goes ok for wot it is.

Thats wot ive done. I hope.!

Slatter

mikesri
05-08-02, 06:25 PM
The body work doesn't affect my insurance at all!!! They only want 2 know about engine mods. ask dan16v and he'll say the same about it cos he was insured with the same people not long ago. i'd rather run injection cos i find its smother. and i'm not in it 4 racing other cars cos like i said, with 9 points i cant afford 2!

Bullwinkle
06-08-02, 07:21 PM
I am biting my tongue as well. I don?t want to be a big doodie head and upset HAYZSR so I am going to be a man and say sorry for what I said, come on you big pooftah give us a kiss :wink: most of what was said was meant in light jest.

I enjoy the odd bit of flaming as its makes things interesting.

Back to the subject.

MIKESRi if you after a bit more zoom for nowt and don?t want the insurance to violate you as soon as you tell them about it here are a few options, some may not apply to you car.

Drilled air box ? requires a replacement filter, bit more noise, nothing on the insurance.

If you already have a K&N why not turn it into a CAI (cold air intake) check out some of the products that are listed for Hondas and then make one of your own, very easy to do and also very effective.

Just don?t drive through big puddles, AEM make the best kits. Polish out your throttle body with some emery cloth, you will find that its quite rough inside and disturbs the airflow.

Port and polish ? the insurance company wont even check for this.

Decent spark plugs (Bosch, NGK) that you make sure are clean and have the right gapping, these tend to be over looked and cost power.

Decent leads don?t bother with performance brands but get a set of new stock cables, they will function just as well, cables tend to be overlooked and cost power.

New dizzy cap and rotor arm again tend to be over looked and cost power.

Make sure the engine is properly set up (timing, air/fuel etc), even a good service and oil change can find some missing ponies.

Basically make sure the engine is in fine health first before you try and get more power out of it, you will get more power from a good service and changing the stock items with new replacement bits (plugs, leads, dizzy, rotor arm) than you will from some Peco BB4 exhaust. If the engine isn?t I good shape then all your effort is wasted.

Also loose weight - rear seats, lagging, sound proofing, ICE, spare wheel, carpets. Front seats can be replaced with lighter bucket seats, which shouldn?t affect your policy. Lighter wheels are also a bonus on small engine cars, go as light as possible and keep the sizes sensible, the smaller the RR the better the acceleration. Stiffer suspension will help straight-line acceleration and traction; decent tires also mean that more power will be put down on the road.
Making sure your brakes aren?t binding your tires pressures are correct, your clutch isn?t slipping. The list could go on. Most of the things I have listed won?t even effect your policy but should see your car running better.

Hope that helps

Kind regards

Bullwinkle

mikesri
06-08-02, 10:19 PM
Bullwinkle, thanx 4 the post about what things i could do. i'll bear it in mind.

mikesri
07-08-02, 09:50 PM
thats ok i know what dan can be like!!!! has any1 ever tryed 2 mould a rear spoiler on 2 a nova rear bumper before? upside down obviously!

Bullwinkle
07-08-02, 11:42 PM
Mikesri, i dont have a clue about the spoiler question. Just remember you want to be taking weight off not putting it on. All that rear splitter will do is create more drag.

Plus if you dont do it properly its will look shite.

Bullwinkle

mikesri
08-08-02, 06:41 PM
i did it last weekend, it looks good and have had lots of good remarks about it.

MC
09-08-02, 09:10 AM
This topic should look a little tidier now, lets keep it this way.

jamesburrows
09-08-02, 05:58 PM
hey mr goof,
Glad you made it here!
I thought you wasn't gonna bother tuning your SRI?! and didn't you say that tuning your lump would be 'Too boy racer'????!!!!
Oh well, i think for the money it would take to get your 1.4 lump to 130BHP it wouldn't be worth it, better off fitting a 1.6 8v or 16v and tuning that.
JB

mikesri
10-08-02, 07:00 PM
It would b worth it just 2 c u go backwards!!!!!! i'd need 2 lighten it abit first 2 contend with urs cos uve lost so much body work through rust!!!! Try giving urs a clean sum time and it might go quicker without the dirt!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
In reality though i cant do much 2 it due 2 insurance so i think an engine swap would be well outta the question till at least a years time probably 2. but if its still in 1 piece and i havent crashed it, i'm well up 4 doing a 2.0 16v. i'll concentrate on perfecting the body work first as it could really do with the rest of the car havin a blow over.

MC
12-08-02, 11:22 AM
Why is everyone so obsessed with a 2.0 16v?

Do you really think it will be cheaper? A standard valver conversion will cost more and probably would be slower around a track. Don't be fooled by horsepower figures. It might only be 130bhp, but the torque is considerably higher. If you do the valver conversion, you'll still need to spend out on zorsts and manifold and shafts etc. The basic cost of my engine was around ?700, then add on a zorst system which you'd have to buy for a valver anyway. The combination of the torque, lightweight block and close gear ratio's make it a very useable setup.

Plus the insurance ain't to bad on a modded 1.4 Only tell em the bits they can find easily like the carbs and zorst.

I've got photographic evidence of me passing cars like Scooby's, Honda s2000's and audi's around castle combe in my 1.4. I used to easily out accelerate Astra GTE 16v's and could hold top speed with them too. Granted I did have the car stripped bare of all (and I mean all) creature comforts with well sorted brakes and suspension, but I used to earn alot of respect when people found out what cc it was. I also admit that my 1600 was faster, but the engine was a much higher spec.

ASk CP about 1400cc's!

MC
12-08-02, 11:54 AM
Spose I should add that the valver will probably be quicker over a 1/4 mile (not neccessarily 0-60) and will have more potential for further tuning.

There, I'm not totally biased.

Ben (lurk75)
12-08-02, 10:53 PM
Good point well made!

Cant argue with that!

mikesri
17-08-02, 09:58 AM
well made point MC. I think i'll have 2 buy little bits here and there till my insurance goes down a bit!!!! ?1500 tpft is not exactly cheap!!!

dan16v
17-08-02, 11:44 AM
what a rip off myne is a ?825 fully comp on a 16v at 19!

benji
17-08-02, 02:02 PM
which insurance company are you with

carltoncrazy
17-08-02, 08:33 PM
hi,every1 probley made note of this but remember he has points on his lience.
so do i and i had to go under my lasses name to cut it down,it was still 1300quid on a 1.3 sr.and i live in the coutry side ow ar.
but really 1500quid with say 6 points is gd,well in my opion it is

mikesri
18-08-02, 10:24 AM
?1500 with 9 points is even better then!!!!! Dan's with a company called liverpool victoria, cheap as fcuk and fully comp!!! They didn't really wanna know about me as i had a few to many points!!!!!

Ben (lurk75)
18-08-02, 11:31 AM
L&V gave me a good quote as well and i have got points but didnt really need fully comp. had to go for the sheaper 3rdpft with A. Flux

carltoncrazy
19-08-02, 01:00 PM
to be honest put cars of this age on fully comp isnt really an option because its so easy to write cars off of this ages as there value is low,
so tpft is a more.......senisible idea.
but thats my opion

Ben (lurk75)
19-08-02, 06:04 PM
Geeessss is this twice that i have to agree with Hayz???

LMAO :P

mikesri
19-08-02, 10:30 PM
Looks like it m8!!!!!!!!!
He's making sum good points at the mo.
:wink: :D