Ste L
16-02-08, 01:32 PM
WARNING.
Before you do anything make sure that you are fully aware of the legal and safety implications of any non like-for-like engine transplants. Consult the forums where there are knowledgeable people who have first hand experience or ring known GM tuning experts advertised in the Magazines. Remember that the braking, steering and general running gear for a small car may perform inadequately or fail if subjected to a lot of extra power and weight.
THE CAR.
The Project vehicle is '91 Nova 1.4SR with a Blydenstein modified head, Piper fast road Cam and Jetex exhaust system. It has been lowered & fitted with 2nd hand Calibra disc brakes on the front and (we think) Astra discs on the rear. It is running on 16" Mille Miglia Spiders.
THE TUNING CHOICE.
The original idea was to bore out the 1.4 block, however we were advised to install a 1.6 which is better and cheaper. (The 1.6 is basically the same block bored out by over 1mm & stroked out by over 8 mm anyway.)
A few calls around the local breakers resulted in the discovery of a 1.6 GSi engine & transmission.
To get round the problem of having to install an ECU etc. for the injected engine we opted to install Twin 40 DCOE carburettors especially since we were going to be able to get some dirt cheap. (Twin 40's are the ones to get for 1.4 or 1.6 engines)
Additionally it was decided that although standard valves would be retained, the inlet and outlet ports and valve throats would be opened up by around 1mm all round. The valve stems were waisted and the undersides of the valves ground back to aid flow.
The Piper fast road cam from the 1.4 was added since it was unworn and the 1.6 one was fairly knackered.
HOW MUCH?
A straight engine swap can cost as little as ?2 -300. If you swap the transmission and do some work on the engine costs can easily rise to ?500. If you install twin 40 DCOE's you will need to add anything from ?300 (if you're lucky) up to ?7 -800 if you are forced into buying new stuff. (Very approx. costs for us - 2nd hand carbs ?35!!!! New inlet manifold ?150ish (includes alternator bracket). New throttle linkage and gasket kit ?60 -70. PiperX air filter kit ?75.)
HOW LONG?
Engine & transmission out and new one stripped down clean - a weekend.
Engine reconditioned & back in including the transmission - weekend
Twin 40's on and engine running - about a day.
WHAT YOU WILL NEED (main items)
A well stocked toolkit (metric) including clamps etc.
Haynes manual.
Lift/hoist and suitable chains or sturdy ropes.
Car ramps, axles stands & blocks or planks of wood
Large screw driver or drift to pop the driveshafts out.
A bar to lever the engine around.
Gasket and seal sets for head and sump etc. (if overhauling implant engine)
New oil, filters, cam belt, antifreeze and liquid gasket etc.
Handy mates
Paraffin and cleaning tools plus airline to blow down with
TOP TIPS BEFORE YOU START.
It is quite possible for relative novices with the right equipment to do most of the work to get the engine out and back in but an experienced mechanic is recommended for key periods such as lining up shafts and jiggling engines back into place into the transmission. In any event it is not a one-man job so get help.
Make sure that you install the 1.6 transmission since the 1.6 engine has a bigger flywheel and therefore needs a larger bell housing than on the 1.4 gearbox
Read the Haynes manual thoroughly to make sure you are familiar with not only engine removal (section 1.46) but also the transmission (section 6. as well. You also need to be aware about the differences between the injected and carburettor engines (section 13).
Otherwise basically the two engines and transmissions are identical as regards mounting points and shared components, so it is a fairly straightforward procedure. NB. It will not be necessary to seam weld or make any modifications to the bulkhead as with the 2.0l implant. There is no appreciable increase in weight either.
When buying a 2nd hand engine take a plug spanner, some basic tools, the Haynes Manual and a torch (a knowledgeable mate would be handy as this part of the process is critical.) Check the dipstick - make sure it's got oil and that it's not muddy or grey coloured. Take each spark plug out and compare it to the plugs shown on the back page of the manual - this will tell you a lot about how the engine's been running. Look inside the oil filler cap with a torch at the cam lobes - if you can see a clear worn ridge on the sides of any of the lobes, the cam will need changing. Look out for hot water rusty coloured deposits that may have been running down the outside of the block from around the head or head gasket area. Other signs of overheating may also show up as an area cleared of oil and gunge that has gone recently rusty or where paint etc has been burnt off. Check that if it's out of a crashed vehicle there isn't any physical damage.
BEWARE OF STEAM CLEANED ENGINES - the breaker might be trying to hide obvious problems and make sure that the head hasn't been frost damaged. Try to look at other examples & always ascertain the engines age, mileage, donor vehicle and why it's being broken.
NOTE: If you are buying a GSi or any injected engine and are intending to retain it so, you must make sure that you have all the ancilliary pipework and wiring to fit, & in particular the ECU along with its wiring loom and engine sensors. In this circumstance it is preferable that you get advice and ideally remove the whole lot out of the donor vehicle yourself with someone who knows what they're doing with ECU's.This is the reason why we opted for adding carbs - they make the transplant simpler (I think!)
STEP 1.
Note. You will need a torque wrench & a valve spring compressor if you complete this section.
Get your 1.6 engine and associated parts (carbs, inlet manifold and throttle linkage). Personally I would recommend cleaning & stripping the engine down so it can be checked over. It is likely to have done significant mileage and would benefit from some attention. At the very least you should consider taking the head off so that you can change the valve stem oil seals. The procedure to do this is covered in the manual (section 1.24 also section 13). I would also recommend that you thoroughly clean the sump and in particular the gauze in the oil pick up pipe as this can be badly clogged. Check that the water pump moves freely when its retaining screws are loosened to make the cam belt adjustment easier. Note that you will need a new head gasket kit and new head bolts to overhaul the seals. De-coke and re-seat the valves at the same time. Check that the bores are OK (if the plugs were healthy i.e. not oily and black, then the bores won't be badly worn) and make sure you keep them scrupulously clean and covered.
Next you will need to do some work to "match" the inlet manifold to the head if you are going to fit twin 40's. This is best done by carefully grinding out where the ports and the manifold meet with a "Burr" that can be obtained from a tool wholesaler. A small electric drill will be all that is necessary to drive it and, to stop it clogging up with the soft aluminium, periodically apply a little oil. Get the area as smooth and even as possible for the air flow over the joints but make sure to leave a co**** rough filed finish to prevent the fuel dropping out of suspension.
STEP 2.
Remove the bonnet and then, following the manual carefully, start to strip the engine down making sure that all components, pipes and attachments etc. are carefully marked, cleaned and stored to facilitate easy re-assembly. The more careful, systematic and conscientious you are at this stage, the easier it will all go back together again.
NB. During this stage make sure that the car is safely supported and fully chocked as you will be
working below as well as above the car. Try to remember how everything comes out and in what relation it is to other components.
TOP TIPS. It sometimes helps to ease something complicated only partially apart and then temporarily re-assemble it before finally taking it apart. This will show you how it all goes back together. Draw diagrams of wiring or component positioning as it is very easy to forget things.
STEP 3.
When the engine has been successfully removed follow a similar procedure and remove the drive
shafts and then the transmission.
STEP 4.
With the engine and gearbox out, take stock of the situation. Check the engine mount bushes and
any other parts that may need to be replaced now that they've come to light. Compare the 2 engines and gearboxes in case there are any major differences. If everything appears to be in order you can start to install the new gearbox and then the engine. This is basically the reverse of the removal procedure. NB If adding twin 40's I would recommend leaving the head off whilst the engine is being replaced making sure that the bores are sealed over.
Before you do anything make sure that you are fully aware of the legal and safety implications of any non like-for-like engine transplants. Consult the forums where there are knowledgeable people who have first hand experience or ring known GM tuning experts advertised in the Magazines. Remember that the braking, steering and general running gear for a small car may perform inadequately or fail if subjected to a lot of extra power and weight.
THE CAR.
The Project vehicle is '91 Nova 1.4SR with a Blydenstein modified head, Piper fast road Cam and Jetex exhaust system. It has been lowered & fitted with 2nd hand Calibra disc brakes on the front and (we think) Astra discs on the rear. It is running on 16" Mille Miglia Spiders.
THE TUNING CHOICE.
The original idea was to bore out the 1.4 block, however we were advised to install a 1.6 which is better and cheaper. (The 1.6 is basically the same block bored out by over 1mm & stroked out by over 8 mm anyway.)
A few calls around the local breakers resulted in the discovery of a 1.6 GSi engine & transmission.
To get round the problem of having to install an ECU etc. for the injected engine we opted to install Twin 40 DCOE carburettors especially since we were going to be able to get some dirt cheap. (Twin 40's are the ones to get for 1.4 or 1.6 engines)
Additionally it was decided that although standard valves would be retained, the inlet and outlet ports and valve throats would be opened up by around 1mm all round. The valve stems were waisted and the undersides of the valves ground back to aid flow.
The Piper fast road cam from the 1.4 was added since it was unworn and the 1.6 one was fairly knackered.
HOW MUCH?
A straight engine swap can cost as little as ?2 -300. If you swap the transmission and do some work on the engine costs can easily rise to ?500. If you install twin 40 DCOE's you will need to add anything from ?300 (if you're lucky) up to ?7 -800 if you are forced into buying new stuff. (Very approx. costs for us - 2nd hand carbs ?35!!!! New inlet manifold ?150ish (includes alternator bracket). New throttle linkage and gasket kit ?60 -70. PiperX air filter kit ?75.)
HOW LONG?
Engine & transmission out and new one stripped down clean - a weekend.
Engine reconditioned & back in including the transmission - weekend
Twin 40's on and engine running - about a day.
WHAT YOU WILL NEED (main items)
A well stocked toolkit (metric) including clamps etc.
Haynes manual.
Lift/hoist and suitable chains or sturdy ropes.
Car ramps, axles stands & blocks or planks of wood
Large screw driver or drift to pop the driveshafts out.
A bar to lever the engine around.
Gasket and seal sets for head and sump etc. (if overhauling implant engine)
New oil, filters, cam belt, antifreeze and liquid gasket etc.
Handy mates
Paraffin and cleaning tools plus airline to blow down with
TOP TIPS BEFORE YOU START.
It is quite possible for relative novices with the right equipment to do most of the work to get the engine out and back in but an experienced mechanic is recommended for key periods such as lining up shafts and jiggling engines back into place into the transmission. In any event it is not a one-man job so get help.
Make sure that you install the 1.6 transmission since the 1.6 engine has a bigger flywheel and therefore needs a larger bell housing than on the 1.4 gearbox
Read the Haynes manual thoroughly to make sure you are familiar with not only engine removal (section 1.46) but also the transmission (section 6. as well. You also need to be aware about the differences between the injected and carburettor engines (section 13).
Otherwise basically the two engines and transmissions are identical as regards mounting points and shared components, so it is a fairly straightforward procedure. NB. It will not be necessary to seam weld or make any modifications to the bulkhead as with the 2.0l implant. There is no appreciable increase in weight either.
When buying a 2nd hand engine take a plug spanner, some basic tools, the Haynes Manual and a torch (a knowledgeable mate would be handy as this part of the process is critical.) Check the dipstick - make sure it's got oil and that it's not muddy or grey coloured. Take each spark plug out and compare it to the plugs shown on the back page of the manual - this will tell you a lot about how the engine's been running. Look inside the oil filler cap with a torch at the cam lobes - if you can see a clear worn ridge on the sides of any of the lobes, the cam will need changing. Look out for hot water rusty coloured deposits that may have been running down the outside of the block from around the head or head gasket area. Other signs of overheating may also show up as an area cleared of oil and gunge that has gone recently rusty or where paint etc has been burnt off. Check that if it's out of a crashed vehicle there isn't any physical damage.
BEWARE OF STEAM CLEANED ENGINES - the breaker might be trying to hide obvious problems and make sure that the head hasn't been frost damaged. Try to look at other examples & always ascertain the engines age, mileage, donor vehicle and why it's being broken.
NOTE: If you are buying a GSi or any injected engine and are intending to retain it so, you must make sure that you have all the ancilliary pipework and wiring to fit, & in particular the ECU along with its wiring loom and engine sensors. In this circumstance it is preferable that you get advice and ideally remove the whole lot out of the donor vehicle yourself with someone who knows what they're doing with ECU's.This is the reason why we opted for adding carbs - they make the transplant simpler (I think!)
STEP 1.
Note. You will need a torque wrench & a valve spring compressor if you complete this section.
Get your 1.6 engine and associated parts (carbs, inlet manifold and throttle linkage). Personally I would recommend cleaning & stripping the engine down so it can be checked over. It is likely to have done significant mileage and would benefit from some attention. At the very least you should consider taking the head off so that you can change the valve stem oil seals. The procedure to do this is covered in the manual (section 1.24 also section 13). I would also recommend that you thoroughly clean the sump and in particular the gauze in the oil pick up pipe as this can be badly clogged. Check that the water pump moves freely when its retaining screws are loosened to make the cam belt adjustment easier. Note that you will need a new head gasket kit and new head bolts to overhaul the seals. De-coke and re-seat the valves at the same time. Check that the bores are OK (if the plugs were healthy i.e. not oily and black, then the bores won't be badly worn) and make sure you keep them scrupulously clean and covered.
Next you will need to do some work to "match" the inlet manifold to the head if you are going to fit twin 40's. This is best done by carefully grinding out where the ports and the manifold meet with a "Burr" that can be obtained from a tool wholesaler. A small electric drill will be all that is necessary to drive it and, to stop it clogging up with the soft aluminium, periodically apply a little oil. Get the area as smooth and even as possible for the air flow over the joints but make sure to leave a co**** rough filed finish to prevent the fuel dropping out of suspension.
STEP 2.
Remove the bonnet and then, following the manual carefully, start to strip the engine down making sure that all components, pipes and attachments etc. are carefully marked, cleaned and stored to facilitate easy re-assembly. The more careful, systematic and conscientious you are at this stage, the easier it will all go back together again.
NB. During this stage make sure that the car is safely supported and fully chocked as you will be
working below as well as above the car. Try to remember how everything comes out and in what relation it is to other components.
TOP TIPS. It sometimes helps to ease something complicated only partially apart and then temporarily re-assemble it before finally taking it apart. This will show you how it all goes back together. Draw diagrams of wiring or component positioning as it is very easy to forget things.
STEP 3.
When the engine has been successfully removed follow a similar procedure and remove the drive
shafts and then the transmission.
STEP 4.
With the engine and gearbox out, take stock of the situation. Check the engine mount bushes and
any other parts that may need to be replaced now that they've come to light. Compare the 2 engines and gearboxes in case there are any major differences. If everything appears to be in order you can start to install the new gearbox and then the engine. This is basically the reverse of the removal procedure. NB If adding twin 40's I would recommend leaving the head off whilst the engine is being replaced making sure that the bores are sealed over.