View Full Version : FAO Jim and Dan
ok you two are the learders when it come to high powerd 1.68v
i have a 1.6 8v in my car , i dont know weather to spend some money on pull some more power out of her and keeing it small block or do i jump on the band wagon and go XE. i do like the idea and sounds of T40's like the sound of both your cars. im not looking to do the power increase this year but in the furture, im just going to start pick the parts up and have it all ready to go on next winter.
For the money and effort is it worth it dan i know you've gone Big block but your ran your for a long time. and jim i know your keeping your 1.68v. what do you guyr think ?
oh and you others dont spam the post about dropping an xe in i know what they can do and i know they offer 150 bhp for the ?300 spent.
It really comes down to your budget. It took a while to get my engine to where it was before the bottom end failed. The bottom end only failed because I was very unlucky with one of the components. The rest of the engine was not under any strain, so don't think that it was tuned beyond it's capabilities because it wasn't.
If you have the patience to build up the parts as you say then it is well worth it in the long run. I know people have managed to fit XE's and get the car to handle well, but I still believe the Nova was never designed to hold a big block engine and therfore will never handle as well as a small block.
Dans car was very fast. It was quicker than some XE's up the 1/4 and held it's own against Novas with 60bhp more round the track. I don't think Dan spent as much as I did on his 1.6 engine, but the overall package worked very, very well and this is what you should be aiming for if you want a fast 1.6 8v.
Its the age old big Vs small block really.
As Jim said, its budget at the end of the day.
craig green
17-01-08, 09:52 AM
I'm as anti big block as you find really, but you have to ask yourself if you have a really good reason why you'd splash out the same money on a headwork for the baby 8v or a complete XE.
Assuming both engines will need rebuilding, the cost is pretty much the same for both. A rebuilt XE will still come out cheaper than building a 1600 8v & the power outcome will be close.
If its purely a road car Tim, go XE. If you want to strip it & do hill climbs etc & serious track days, stay small block. (just my 2 pence worth)
Personally I like the idea of an ECOTEC X20XEV on bike carbs & F15 smallblock g/box. Bit different.
peester
17-01-08, 10:07 AM
meh - dont forget for the cost of strengthening/preping/mounting up your shell to fit an xe - that money you save by sticking with a small block.. spend that on the tuning then..?
Ide suggest you look at rally spares/etc websites.. 1.6 8v is still popular so you can pick up blue printed/build manual replica's for ok money there.. maybe de-tune slightly for the road tho lol..
craig green
17-01-08, 10:17 AM
I'd love a drive in a Grp-A tuned Nova 8v, 150bhp works engined car with the high compression & chipped Bosch management. They sounded awesome in the vids I've seen.
mikey14sr
17-01-08, 10:44 AM
And with the price of some management systems nowadays a group A rep engine is fairly affordable, especially if you can manage to re-use the standard crank and tps sensors, along with the dis-pack, you'd only really need to add a MAP sensor on top (to do away with the AFM).
craig green
17-01-08, 10:51 AM
The true works Grp-A engines retained the Bosch L-Jetronic with AFM though.
Cossie high comp pistons, lairy cam, tubular manifold & Grp-A system with a chipped ECU & AFM w/XE cream injectors. 150 screaming bhp.
mikey14sr
17-01-08, 11:01 AM
True but as it says in the build manual, most competitors will have changed it for something more easily programmable anyway.
Had a go in a worn grp (bar the ecu as it was MBE) A engined nova.... pulled like a sodding train. V nice.
Had a go in a worn grp (bar the ecu as it was MBE) A engined nova.... pulled like a sodding train. V nice.
Was that Wills old one? It did go very well, shame it was knackered :(
what sor tof money to these Grp-A engines go for?
So can a grp a engine only be run on a gsi 1.6 block? I'm confused as mk1 GTE engine, e16se, still runs a dizzy. Is it possible to convert this to dis pack...will it mean drilling a hole somewhere for a sensor or somthing hence why people use the GSI engine (forgot code c16se?) as it has the sensor already in place?
Would i still benefit from the advantages of dis pack even though i'm running carbs?
One the uprated management am i right in assuming i would be better of maintaing injection although through uprated injectors, thus increasing performance and drive-abilty?
most are now done with 16XE bottom ends as the sensor gear is there and the block tends to not need a rebore as most 8v bottom ends are fubar.
yes Jim, was Wills old engine :(
Sorry Stu, not up to date with the codes. 16xe is this corsa gsi bottom end?
Ok ok, sorry for hi jacking this thread. How about we get an ideal...money no object (I wish) 1.6 8v spec. Come on chaps, get your ideas down even if you dis like them!
From what i can gather so far.
16xe bottom end
Flowed, ported, matched head
Now this is were i get a bit fuzzy (providing the above is correct lol)
Fueling, all systems i imagine have their draw backs
Carbs
Bike Carbs
Throttle Boddies
Injection
Mangement/ignition
Uprated standard managment (this can't be as simple as a chip and xe injectors?)
Mega Squirt, omex 600?
Help?
for a porn spec 1.6 8V, Id just pick up the phone and ring Martin Bowyer, hand over a credit card and wait for heaven to arrive lol.
I've got a Bowyer inlet manifold, would this form part of the spec:D
Matt2107
17-01-08, 01:07 PM
Something else to consider would be resale value.
Something else to consider would be resale value.
You're in the wrong game if your thinking about resale value when modifying cars. When I come to sell up I reckon I will be lucky to get 1/3 of what I've spent on the car.
Come on lads, has no one got an ideal 1.6 8v spec
Come on lads, has no one got an ideal 1.6 8v spec
wait til mike(LOTNSR's) comes on;)
Some good info up there ^ TBH
What i would do, if i was going for say a mild competition engine is -
1600 8v dis pack block, Ported & polished head + ARP's, bigger valves & compeition valve springs/followers, 300 or more degree cam (rendering it pretty much poo for everyday use) with vernier, deseamed rods with ARP's, standard pistons, balanced bottom end with ligthened flywheel, dry sump kit, standard TB with a Cav 1.8 inner, removed EGR, either OMEX or MS management and as a result prolly creams injectors, Ashley 4-1 race manifold, OMP inox Group A or N exhaust system.
As for the trans id use an F13 casing but the final drive would depend upon the overall use of the car* Qauiffe or Gripper diff, HH uniballs and Group A wheel bearings with strengthened bottom arms and polybishes everywhere.
*Final Drive - when i was heavily involded in rallying, each car used to have several gearbox's depending upon the event is was entered into, so you have a relativly standard box with XXX final drive for say a Tarmac event, then so and so for sprint (normally some lairy cluster with uber low down pull etc)
If your were proper serious about building a proper Race Spec engine, speak to Martin Bowyer of Bowyer Power, get a base spec build of him (just dont ask the price lol) and get the parts via eBay, used rally parts websites etc and just build up an engine at home.
lol
Ok, i just think it would answer Timmy's questions as he can get a feel for what parts he needs to start collecting and for eveyone else (including me) who runs a 8v and wants to keep running one. Once we have the ideal list we can then start to pick and choose how far we wanna go (or get in debt lol) and find out what parts work with what. Until today i didn't know that you could combine the 16xe bottom end with the e16se head etc, learn somthing every day on this site!
300 or more degree cam (rendering it pretty much poo for everyday use)
I have a 300degree Piper cam and I wouldn't say it was useless for everyday use. It's all in the set up.
I'm as anti big block as you find really, but you have to ask yourself if you have a really good reason why you'd splash out the same money on a headwork for the baby 8v or a complete XE.
Assuming both engines will need rebuilding, the cost is pretty much the same for both. A rebuilt XE will still come out cheaper than building a 1600 8v & the power outcome will be close.
If its purely a road car Tim, go XE. If you want to strip it & do hill climbs etc & serious track days, stay small block. (just my 2 pence worth)
Personally I like the idea of an ECOTEC X20XEV on bike carbs & F15 smallblock g/box. Bit different.
Im as anti smallblock as they come, but like Craig, I can appreciate the enemy's kit as much as he can lol. I drove Dans car around combe, and i can quite happily say it was one of my most enjoyable times on a track in a Nova.
I agree with hill climbs, small block is the only way to go really, but as far as trackdays go, i dont think the smallblock is the 'only' way to do it properly by a long shot. Most 'proper' circuits are pretty damn big, and IMO advantages gained from the grunt of the 2.0 easily match the smallblocks gains in corners. And I still dont know of a car that corners like Dar's, so thats proof enough in itself.
I'd look at what you plan to do in the future. If you spunk a few grand building a 150bhp 8v, thats your limit. If thats all your ever going to want, and you can justify the money, do it!
However, if you end up bored with the power, and want more, you'll have no more left in it!. It will be start again time. But with an XE, you'll have a huge amount of potential, and you wont have spent much money in the first place.
Food for thought :thumb:
^Appricated however i don't want this thread going the same way all the others go when small blocks get mentioned or big blocks get mentioned! Both have there advantages and dis-advantages.
I've/we've made a decision to stick with the old 1.6 8v and am curious to see what more experience grease monkeys would reccomend/dream of if they could spec the ultimate 1600 8v.
Added to this (and i am a demanding bugger lol) i would like to know what said specification offers over the alternative...for example i would run injection with xe injectors using mega squirt because.... although i would be happy with just the spec's for now!
Help as ever is apprciated, let's not turn this into a debate over which block is better.
GRPA spec with any aftermarket ECU will do the trick. I'd opt for a 300Deg cam and stick with that as the max otherwise you get into ghey machining needed on the head to stop the valve springs from coil binding etc.
have a read of A.Graham Bell's 4 stroke tuning book. Very interesting and gives a good base of knowledge to justify mods.
Come on lads, has no one got an ideal 1.6 8v spec For a everydayer/track car id stick with the standard inlet manifold. A larger tb.
Bigger injectors.
Good head, good cam, good exhaust manifold/system.
And then management.
That would give a good all round engine.
For balls out power, and proper track use. Same as above, but a harsher cam, and throttle bodies.
Im kind of with Lee on this one, you can spend hundreds/thousands getting a 8v to 150bhp. Or start with 150bhp(2L), and spend the cash saved on suspension/handling upgrades etc.
Then if you want more power, your wallets the limit, 280/290bhp can be had from 2L xe's if you have the cash.
Plus if your expensive 8v goes wrong, its expensive to replace(especially if running forged pistons etc) Xe's are ten a penny and most people have xe spares just lying about lol
If spending the same cash on suspension on both a small block and big block, the small block WILL handle better.
I don't know about the big block conversion, so forgive my ignorance, but are there not several other components that need attention when doing this conversion such as:
Strengthening plates + labour to fit them + labour to tidy up engine bay after the welding
Drive shafts?
Suspension to be replaced with coilovers?
Larger brakes?
Whilst these components may not equate to the cost of tuning a small block to 150bhp, am I right in saying they are additional costs to consider when installing a big block? It's not quite as straight forward as buying a ?150 2.0XE engine and slapping it in?
If you already have 22spline shafts(say if you have a gte nova)
And you can weld, it would be pretty much a case of a ?150 engine and slapping it in.
Make the mount spacers, drop and weld the front drivers mount.
Stitch the bay.
Just need the 1.6 cav inner cv's(about ?30 each)
craig green
17-01-08, 05:30 PM
Until today i didn't know that you could combine the 16xe bottom end with the e16se head etc, learn somthing every day on this site!
Then why not just fit the rest of the twin cam set up.
Getting power out of engines is largely about how much air you can 'pump' through an engine.
Modded inlets (TB's), exhaust manifolds, cams & head flowing are all methods to flow more air. Add more fuel (proportionately) to this air (typically chips, raised pressure, bigger carb chokes etc) & the result is typically more power.
The 16v head will always be upto more power than the 8v item. Like wise a 2.0 8v is always a better route to more power than the 1600 esp as cams, headwork & parts all cost the same. 140bhp from 1600 or 170ish from 2.0 for the same outlay???? Use an F15 gearbox & the weight penalty often debated with regard to bigblock (XE's) isnt apparent.
If spending the same cash on suspension on both a small block and big block, the small block WILL handle better.
Agree. BUT
Spend the same amount on the chassis on a small block and big block, the small block will handle marginally better, but the more you spend, the narrower the gap becomes imo, especially when the kit can be adjusted properly to compensate for the cars weight charachteristics.
Spend the same on the engines, the XE will be far better. AND the gap will widen the more you spend. Dont forget torque figures either. You may build a 150bhp smallblock, but it will have LESS torque than a standard XE by probably around 15 - 20 lb/ft!
But as mentioned in this thread, this isnt a discussion on whats better, if a 1.6 has been settled on in the case of 5tig, this discussion should steer towards the best route to go with it, and despite how it sounds, im not saying its a waste of time tuning the baby engine for a second! BUT sometimes as Ive said before, the XE is overlooked because its considered too common, and sometimes a lot of money is spent trying to make something a bit different rather than trying to get the best bang for your buck. My posts are more aimed at Timmy, the thread starter :thumb:
craig green
17-01-08, 05:33 PM
I dont disagree with Lee. However for many driving a Nova is about the cars characteristics & the way it behaves on road or its driving characteristics.
All the XE Nova's I've driven & my TD included all feel like they have lost that neutral balance. They push wider in bends.
(For the record the XE's were strengthened, polybushed & on 2.0 spec springs)
I dont disagree with Lee. However for many driving a Nova is about the cars characteristics & the way it behaves on road or its driving characteristics.
All the XE Nova's I've driven & my TD included all feel like they have lost that neutral balance. They push wider in bends.
(For the record the XE's were strengthened, polybushed & on 2.0 spec springs)
Dont disagree for a second there, but when it comes down to it, with the money there and the correct mods, you CAN make an XE nova handle.
But you CANT squeeze more than 150bhp from a 1.6 8v.
Its a basic statement, but its the bottom line IMO.
Ok then Timmy.
What do you want the car for?
Seeing as a turbo'd 1600 could be do for the same cash as a high power NA, but have more power and the all important torque...
See Lee's post, smallblocks can put out a lot of power, but will always lack torque in NA form, like motorbike engines and vtecs.
Ok then Timmy.
What do you want the car for?
Seeing as a turbo'd 1600 could be do for the same cash as a high power NA, but have more power and the all important torque...
See Lee's post, smallblocks can put out a lot of power, but will always lack torque in NA form, like motorbike engines and vtecs.
I wouldn't say they will lack torque for the engine size, they just won't have as much as a larger engine will.
Yeah timmy where are you! lol
1 post and leave the rest of us feckers arguing all night lol lol
Timmy's set us all up, lol.
lol. Any excuse to abuse Jim. The oppertunity doesnt arise often!
Screw turbo's, supercharging is where it's at! <<<<
A supercharged 1.6 8v will not boast the power figures of a turbo, but I bet its better to drive, don't know why it hasn't been done yet TBH.
mikey14sr
17-01-08, 06:18 PM
Think I'm going to jump in with what Craig said here.
Why not baby xe? Should be plenty about now, with all the corsa boys going for the 2.0, and with a few hundred spent on better manifolds (particularly the inlet), maybe a set of camshafts and defo a re-map, you can quite easily see the good side of 160bhp, with a little more torque over what the 8V will do.
Ive got to say, one very good read/thread :D some rally good points of view & opinions being raised here :D
Novalicious - I know off a genuine, works 1600 8v, Group A engine for sale at the moment, ?2k NO OFFERS ;)
Anyway, the small block, IMHO yes indeed very good engines for what they are without a doubt BUT when your trying to make them something there not, i.e. maxing out there BHP limit, then there not so good. A bit of a biast opinion as ive got a small block my self but hey ho.
With regards to the torque of them, in built into an engine spec id would personally build, I'd add a totally custom tubular inlet manifold with slightly longer runners :thumb: and something like a Cav 1.8 or 2.0 8v TB etc.
What I done with both my 1.6s (the one im building now, and my old blown one) was basicaly use them as a base to "home build" an engine spec of my own trying all sorts of things out and see what happens.
Fact is the 1.6 8v is a good unit, pretty good bottom end that until Jim's motor i thought could take pretty much what you threw at it. It may not be the best but i'm not trying to have the best. I want a good usable engine that a can chuck around corners but still maintain the orginalness of the nova. Weight is also an issue for me personally too.
Jim, what sort of torque was yours putting out?
Yeah the 1600 8v is a good unit.
But the 1600 16v is better.
16v, better head, better pistons too.
Would the 1600 16v pistons fit the 8v
Yeah the 1600 8v is a good unit.
But the 1600 16v is better.
16v, better head, better pistons too.
Agreed there Ad, the 16v is better yes, but given the design age of the E or C16SE engines, they can still handle there own out there to an extent
Would the 1600 16v pistons fit the 8v
Yes.
The pistons are lighter than 8v ones.
Better for revs :thumb:
^ now that ^ i didnt know :thumb:
@rse if id of known i would have changed mine over whilst my engine was in bits lol
YOU DIDN'T KNOW THAT! *pfft! lol
16v pistons are a lot stronger too as the piston rings are spaced further down from the top and evenly, rather than the 8v ones which are nearer to the top with 2 close together a then a large gap.
I'd imagine they would up the compression a bit too mike, so not ideal for a turbo...
I'd imagine they would up the compression a bit too mike, so not ideal for a turbo...
Pants, although i could just use a slighy thicker spacer plate? Even though the turbo system isnt being done until after PV, less work to get my car running this way :thumb:
Aye, the 16v pistons are high comp, and run a close valve to piston size. Hence them having valve cutouts.
craig green
17-01-08, 08:56 PM
Timmy. Just choose a bigblock -XE & then you can have a thread about which colour to paint the rocker cover!
My 2 pence worth:
XE conversions are cost wise:
C20XE engine 250-300, belt kit 80, service bits 50, shafts (nowadays 120if u can find the vaux ones, if not 200ish), weld bay + paint 50 if you can weld (200 if you cant), mounts 50 extra's 100 Soon adds up, worse case scenario is nearly a grand... You can do it cheaper its just whats available etc...
The 1.6 8V all you really need is head, carbs, belt kit, service, cam, setup, be less than an XE conversion + less work...
But the XE will make more torque than the 8V, which is important to remember.
Timmy.
In all honesty you will get more oomph for your bucks with an XE conversion. I know this cos I've done one.
As regards the 1.6, to get the magic 100hp per litre, which is pretty much what you are looking at here for comparisons sake, pretty expensive mods to virtually all parts of the engine (from air filter through to the end of the zorst back box) are needed. I know this cos I've done it.
However you've got to ask yourself: " Why am I doing this and what do I hope to achieve?" Either way you spend a fair bit of money (to do a fairly refined and well finished job through to the end to get it all reliable) and being as your nova won't be the cherished rally model owned by Colin McRae at the end of it all, you will have probably thrown 2/3rds of the money spent away.
If your objective is cheap power regardless, install a decent XE leave it as std. Uprate the front chassis /engine bay, driveshafts, front suspension and brakes and enjoy.
If, however, you see some value in sticking with an engine that was designed for the car but would like more power then do up your 1.6.
Basically it comes down to how you want people to view what you have done. Its not possible to say a 1.6 conversion is better than an XE conversion or vice versa - its a matter of taste
(Us small blockers have it and the big blockers don't:D )
Us small blockers have it and the big blockers don't
What is seeing bits of conrod/piston/engine block laying around the floor to your taste? lol ;)
Paul
No, seeing a big block understeering in the rear view mirror is :p lol lol
craig green
17-01-08, 10:06 PM
But the XE will make more torque than the 8V, which is important to remember.
Torque wins races! :thumb:
If I were Timmy I'd blag a go in a valver. He wont look back.
Craig's right! You never look back after being in a big block XE, well I havent anyway!
I'm pretty sure it was Carroll Shelby who said:
"BHP figures sell cars, torque wins a race."
Couldnt be more true!
EDIT: "Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races"- Carroll Shelby
My 2 pence worth:
XE conversions are cost wise:
C20XE engine 250-300, belt kit 80, service bits 50, shafts (nowadays 120if u can find the vaux ones, if not 200ish), weld bay + paint 50 if you can weld (200 if you cant), mounts 50 extra's 100 Soon adds up, worse case scenario is nearly a grand... You can do it cheaper its just whats available etc...
The 1.6 8V all you really need is head, carbs, belt kit, service, cam, setup, be less than an XE conversion + less work...
a high spec 1.6 will cost. Probably in the region of 2.5k!
Your estimates work out having an XE in the bay for less than 1k worst case scenario. If you can get a mate to weld it, probably less than 600!
Fair enough, my estimates are not good lol!
I've just worked out that my 1.6 8v T40 has so far cost (very roughly) ?950 with 'box, minus the bits i've sold off the engine, but still need to buy a few bits... It will probably owe me ?1200 at the end of the day, for basically a brand new 150bhp (ish) 1.6 8v... not toooo bad, but I recon to fully rebuild an XE to standard spec and fit it would cost about the same, but that includes paint, mounts, 'shafts which you don't need with the 1.6.
ok i started this post late last night and have now spent an hour reading up to this point.
Firstly i want to use the car everyday and on track a lot like dans but i will use it for everyday uses and shopping and so on.
i have already got my bay welded and plated , will be fitting coilovers once i get my insureance from my accident. my shell will be welded and fully poloyed .This is a must before adding another 50 BHP to the car.
from years of racing MTB bike i know there no point being fit as a hosre if your can't go down a hill fast and stop at the bottem.
as much as i enjoyed the big block, small block debat.
Still dunno what to do, a friend has a set of T40 cheap i can get and a kent cam for cheap as well, i have a spare head in my shed so i can get work done to that for nothing really. what am i looking at for that little lot power wise?
i know whats capble from a good XE and have a close freind who could build me a 300BHP engine if i asked.
but the 1.6 8v are what came from factory so i kinda dont what to just rip it out , if that make sence.
but the 1.6 8v are what came from factory so i kinda dont what to just rip it out , if that make sence.
makes sence to me :thumb: I'm still unsure if i'd even fit a 1.6 16v in a nova... 8v rules:D lol
i was going to go 1.6 16v but that naff and go bang on track
Jim, what sort of torque was yours putting out?
5TIG, I had 132lb/ft torque when it was last on the rollers.
Matt2107
18-01-08, 01:23 PM
You're in the wrong game if your thinking about resale value when modifying cars. When I come to sell up I reckon I will be lucky to get 1/3 of what I've spent on the car.
Wasn't suggesting it for that reason as such.
I'm fully aware of how much you can make from breaking a car and selling the bits as I'm currently doing it at the minute. I've had/still got well over a grands worth of parts which realistically on the shell I'd be lucky to get ?500.... hence the reason I'm breaking.
I was merely steering the thread along a line of which would be easier to sell as a complete car.
Personally I'd rather have a well tuned top level 1.6 8v over a 2ltr xe anyday.
If was you Timmy I would stick to the 1.6 8v. It's obviously what you want to do and it sounds like you have the backup around you to complete it with minimal labour costs.
Anyway XE's don't handlelol
craig green
18-01-08, 01:57 PM
Daily drive? Shopping? Occasional track day?
Got to be the XE in my opinion. Easier & better mannered-I'd assume. Better economy-likely.
150bhp of bigblock goodness should keep Tim amused for quite some time as an XE over a std 16SE is quite a mind blowing experience for a while, then when bored start tuning the XE. Either save for ages & go down the route of TB's or just Grp-N chip, mild cams, decent exhaust & manifold etc.... with an ATB diff thats a damn good fast road car.
dhdev (Oli)
18-01-08, 02:07 PM
Dont disagree for a second there, but when it comes down to it, with the money there and the correct mods, you CAN make an XE nova handle.
But you CANT squeeze more than 150bhp from a 1.6 8v.
Its a basic statement, but its the bottom line IMO.
Lee - Best off with a 1.6 16v then. Power and control ;)
Plus the extra weight will always be a factor with an XE, whereas the power deficit will be a bonus when you reach the limit with both engines, as 300bhp N/A FWD in a 750kg hatch would be wheelspintastic!
Timmy - If you want a fastroad car though, I'd suggest either;
XE - cheap to buy (?300), torquey but needs the bay modding and shafts etc (?300)
C16XE - Cheap to buy/install (?300), but needs a modified inlet and exhaust to really sing (approx ?300)
TBH I'd probably go bigblock for fast road (but keep that quiet)
tom_beverley
18-01-08, 02:50 PM
No one keen on a Z18XE? I know they're not that common and not many conversions have been done but if I were to ever build a new engine again thats where I'd start as its still a smallblock and has much more potential.
I've based my new engine on a kind of hybrid of Dan and Jim's but as the point has been made, 150-160bhp is the most you can go NA route, where as I'm sure to tire of that eventually and power hunger will set in. And thats even before I've turned the new engine over!
The fact is a 150bhp 1.6 8v offers a perfect balance of speed and handling IMO and I cannot wait to get her on track and see what she can do compare to 'bigger and more powerful' cars, which IMO is where the funs at.
If you want more power then go the XE route as I'm sure they can handle almost as well, just look at Dar's!
No one keen on a Z18XE? I know they're not that common and not many conversions have been done but if I were to ever build a new engine again thats where I'd start as its still a smallblock and has much more potential.
The only problem is, youd HAVE to use aftermarket management etc on a Z18. As the original management is multiplexed wiring, electronic throttle etc etc.
TBH I'd probably go bigblock for fast road (but keep that quiet)
Slowly but surely, phase 2 of denial is kicking in lol
Slowly but surely, phase 2 of denial is kicking in lol
As is phase 3:
XE's don't handle
;)
tom_beverley
18-01-08, 04:06 PM
The only problem is, youd HAVE to use aftermarket management etc on a Z18. As the original management is multiplexed wiring, electronic throttle etc etc.
True, so you'd be looking at roughly ?800 to buy and get it up and running yourself which isn't nearly as economic. However, IMO that option holds the most power/handling potential.
Forgive me, what engine is Z18? is this the VXR jobbie?
Nope.
NA Small block 1800 16v
mikey14sr
18-01-08, 04:14 PM
Z18XE, think that's the small block 1.8 used in corsa 'c' SRi's and mk4/5 astra's? 125bhp in the corsa.
ok just had a quick skim through and the majority of initial correct replies happened on the first 2 pages...
Running the 1.6 8v is great fun, yes it is frowned upon by some but only in the same sense fitting a big block is by others. I'll repeat the said wise words, end of the day its what YOU want to do. People can say for and against any choice all day long, but when it comes to the crunch you will still sway towards what is niggling in the back of your head.
Personally i have loved having the 8v engine, with some careful choices and trying many different variations of tune over time i got the car exactly how i wanted it. The power and its spread across the range was as hoped, and against what others said it managed to do things that suprised a few of us. That factor alone was what made it all worth while.
I could of fitted a big block years ago, had more power with the same amount of work etc etc, but i wouldnt of had as much fun along the way. The power of my engine is perfect for road/pod and trackdays with the added grin factor of knowing its still only a small engine compared to what you are normally against. I know my new project is a big block with my hand forced abit, but i wont be doing any stupid mods like throttle bodies or headwork etc as i am still happy to be flying around with more than enough power to have fun and not too much that braking zones become another thing to account for lol lol . The only major thing i have with this one is the gearbox so the gearing keeps the power more on the boil than with a standard f20
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