Rose jointed linkage problem

[Welsh Dan]

Firstly, here is the linkage that I have made:
http://www.xen0phobiak.f2s.com/novaload/diamond/linkage1.jpg

I'm having issues fitting it, because I can't seem to be able to get enough movement in these axes, so the rose joints are loosening themselves:
http://www.xen0phobiak.f2s.com/novaload/diamond/restricted1.jpg

Obviously, this restriction is caused by the nut and bolthead being too close to the joint:
http://www.xen0phobiak.f2s.com/novaload/diamond/rosejoint1.jpg

Where could I get some kind of spacer to put on the bolt either side of the joint, to give it room to move, or some kind of flush fit bolts as seen here:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y221/ricmetcalf/gearlinkage-1.jpg

OR

Would I be better off swapping the bolts and rose joints around?

Cheers.

[Adam]

Get some bolts with countersunk heads...?

Ebay have a load

[Welsh Dan]

Good thinking :D

Cheers Ad :thumb:.

[Welsh Dan]

I bought myself some countersunk m10 bolts from a building suppliers (fwb for anyone local), just need to countersink the nuts with the dremel and it should be ready for its final fit :).

[James P]

why have you done that anyways? why not just use the nova one?

[Welsh Dan]

Because it is the first step towards making the gearstick less vague, I also need to get brass bushes made up by a machineshop to replace the rubber ones in the middle of the main pivot. When my car is in gear I can move the gearstick in a circle about 2" in diameter because there is that much play in it lol. Once this part of the linkage is done, I may examine the parts underneath the gearstick and see what can be done there :).

[James P]

id probely just do that and stop worring about that adjuster thing. why would that one arm make it that slack? probely the bit on the gear box or like you said the gear selector itself.

[R1CH]

Either put a slight radius on the bottom of the bolt heads, or make up some spacers (same OD as rose joint) like in the pic ...
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y251/chip-3door/4m2/new-engine/joint-bush.jpg
(pic nicked off VauxSport)

Counter sunk head bolts would work but not ideal as theres not gonna be much contact area from the bottom of the bolt head.

[Novasport]

I also need to get brass bushes made up by a machineshop to replace the rubber ones in the middle of the main pivot.

If you sort some of these let me know as would be interested in some:thumb:

[Welsh Dan]

James P, because all of the pivots on the linkage are supposed to pivot, and have no front-back/side-side/up-down play in them, when the plastic and rubber joints that GM fitted originally wear out, theres lots of play in all directions.

R!CH, cheers for that idea, as I've got the countersunk bolts though I think I'll use them, there's only a small point of contact on the face of the rose joint anyway, I might make spacers up by cutting off the countersunk bolt heads, then drilling down the centre of them.

Nova.Sport, I was planning on getting 5-10 sets made up, if i can, depending on cost.

[novarodnherr]

was there not someone on this site a cupple of years
ago going to mass proudce these ross jointed gear linkage.
I think h made 20 or so of them.

[Timmy]

i know dar made one up and did a how to of it. i need to get one made up cos i can't find "nd dont know if i killed my box or just have a really knackerd shifter

[Welsh Dan]

Timmy, I followed Dar's guide, but am having this problem. In hindsight I'd drill and tap a smaller hole in the bit that links to the box and the bit that links to the shifter, cut a rod to length and press it into the eye of the rose joint (interference fit), then drill out that rod. IE fit an m6 bolt in an m10 hole, to get a wider range of movement available.

[tom reid]

Rally design and other R/J suppliers sell the correct spacers for all sizes of joints, as said above, get the proper item, job done

[craig green]

I'd just put the nuts that are too big on a grinder & make room tor the extra movement.

Or use a smaller daimeter bolts & nuts etc. You'd get more clearance then.

[mikey14sr]

I used short pieces of 10mm od steel tube for spacers on mine, works perfectly well.

[Welsh Dan]

Six months on and I still havent finished it lol.

I've bought some spacers, but I'm still having range of movement issues.

Can anyone point out where I'm going wrong please? Even Iainel managed to do this lol.

http://www.xen0phobiak.f2s.com/novaload/linkage/IMG_2264.JPG
http://www.xen0phobiak.f2s.com/novaload/linkage/IMG_2265.JPG
http://www.xen0phobiak.f2s.com/novaload/linkage/IMG_2266.JPG
http://www.xen0phobiak.f2s.com/novaload/linkage/IMG_2269.JPG
http://www.xen0phobiak.f2s.com/novaload/linkage/IMG_2271.JPG

[ck]

you need to switch the rose joints around aswell so ther are not attatched to the linkage itself..

[Welsh Dan]

What do you mean?

[tom_beverley]

you need to switch the rose joints around aswell so ther are not attatched to the linkage itself..

Only from this end [bottom joint], i.e. remove the rose joint and bolt etc and swap them over so it is the same way round as t'other end.

http://www.xen0phobiak.f2s.com/novaload/linkage/IMG_2265.JPG

[Welsh Dan]

Finally sorted it thanks guys, I swapped that RJ back to its original position as you suggested, twisted the face of the bit with the plastic UJ that the top RJ fits to to gain more 'swivel', and added a few washers.

There's still some play in the stick but gearchanges feel so much more defined.