ADVICE ABOUT PREP WORK

[DEE'S NOVA]

right my girlfreinds nova is needing it's body work done ie:dents removed rust rubbed done and a respray as it has marks on the roof and bonnet like overspray so i'll get the outside shell resprayed once i've prepared it right so i' looking for advice like what grade of sand paper to use for rubbing down the rust and what fillers to use like p 40 and etc what elase do i need to do the job?and would the rain ruin the filler once it's smoothed

and on her tailgate she has the black bit that goes from one sode to the other around the lower half but this has rust to but when i rum it down the black will come off so how wouls i' get it black again?would i just spray it?

[ade]

alright m8, sounds like youve got a lot of work to do! :o

Prep work is very important - rush it and your shag the entire bodywork. If u intend to get the car professionally sprayed (body shop or garage) let them prep it for you. most body shops wont touch yer car if you prep it yerself as they dont know what youve done. Theres a certain way to prep a car ready for spraying if u want to make it last for ages - otherwise in less than 18 months the paint will fade, bubble coz of rust or worst still just peel off!
It also depends on how much work u are doing. Sounds like the whole car. Avoid just touching up areas that are rusty coz unless you have sprayed a car before or done touch up work, it will stand out like sore thumb.
If u want to do it yerself, use a spray gun rather than cans and follow this - (if u aint done it before get an old panel and practice)

for painting all areas - get car in dry area (double garage will do). You will need a clean environment well ventilated for spraying. Car will need to be out of direct sunlight and water once sprayed for at least 3 days (unless u use heat lamps)
remove paint to bare metal at least 6 inches around the rust area using 120 wet n dry. If doing whole car, sand body work down (not to bare metal).
Take off ALL rust.
Treat area with a rust killer (krust or equivalent).
Degrease using a degreaser.
If the area is dented, fill using gradual layers of filler (Stevens filler or P38 will do). If there are holes get them welded or use bridging mesh and P40 fibreglass filler.
Sand back using 240 wet n dry - Sand it dry though coz filler is pourous. Sand smooth using a sanding block not yer hands coz u will make slight ripples in sanding - sand up down left right.
Once smooth, u need to protect the metal - use an etch primer - this will coat the metal and prevent it from rusting. If you cant get/use etch, use zinc primer from a can.
Before spraying, mask all areas not to be sprayed (leave masking in place where possible during process) - degrease again using a degreaser. Clean area with a tack cloth then spray with etch/zinc primer - thin coats - 2 should do it.
Check for imperfections and refill, sand as necessary, degrease, tack and then respray with etch/zinc primer.
Allow to dry 24hrs at least.
Once smooth, sand gently using 500 wet n dry (dry) and degrease area again. then apply a standard body primer in thin even coats.
Between coats check for imprefections. Allow suitable time to dry between coats. Once enough coats applied (2-3 should do), allow to dry for 24 hrs then sand using gradual grades from 500 to 800 to 1000 wet n dry (wet) to get surface as smooth as possible.
Any imperfections in the surface will show up 10 times worse when top coat is applied.
Once smooth, clean car/area down using degreaser. If using a metalic paint (good luck with matching to original colour), you will need to use lacquer afterwards. If using a flat colour you dont need lacquer but can if you wish.
Just before applying paint, degrease and use a tack cloth to get surface perfect. Make sure all areas not to be painted are masked, there is no dust anywhere (wet the floor slightly) then spray the area with paint - side to side strokes with the next stroke slightly overlapping the previous one. Keep your distance about 10" from the area and move smoothly and evenly.
Apply one coat at a time, allow to flash dry (5-10 mins) then apply another coat. Usually takes about 3 coats.
Allow at least 24 hours to dry once complete.
Once dry check surface for imperfections. If there are any, use 1000 - 1500 wet n dry (wet) to gently remove dust nibs, runs etc. Then respray the area. Once dry (24 hrs), tack cloth the area, apply lacquer if necessary (using same process as the paint) and allow 24 hrs to dry.
Do not polish/buff for at least 7 days (needs time to cure - solvents to evaporate- unless using heat lamps).
Once cured, buff using a fine buffing compound to bring out deep shine. Be very careful when buffing - watch edges of body work where paint is thinnest as they can wear away quickly - dont use a buffing tool (drill adapter or buffing wheel) unless used before as this can burn/damage paintwork.
Once buffed, wash car but dry fully once washed to avoid blemishes. Dont use wax based polish for at least 90 days as wax clogs up paint and can damage it (some paints can take up to 2 months to fully cure)

One hell of a lot of prep for the finial results but well worth it.
Just take your time! :wink:

The lower tailgate is covered in vynal (as are probably the sides!) If there is rust at the bottom of the tailgate - remove the vynal (using a heat gun on low heat setting) to assess the damage. U may need a new tailgate (cheap from a scrappy!). Replacing the vynal can be done by either getting it from Vauxhall (expensive) or getting a piece from a printers/vynal shop. Alternatively, you can do what I did and just mask the upper half and spray the lowerhalf in satin black paint! (prep as above) Looks just as good
Long but well worth it.

Ade

[Fester]

u can reply on ade for hardcore posts on this sort of thing m8 - put that in hardback u'll get ?9.99 :)

[novaexplod]

wow u said a mouthful ade, a lot of typing, u should become a secretary. i think ill use ur detailed diy tips on my car. cept i dont know how the hell u are supposed to get dust and shit out of the garage... 0X

[DEE'S NOVA]

THX ADE I appreciate the couple of days u took out to type that for me think IOU a pint if we ever meet 8)

as for the job i was going to do the prep work bit by bit like rub the rust and replace new panels in between my spare hours of not working so if i rub down fill and smooth panels just now but it's still lying in the drive for weeks will the rain effect the filler i have already put on?

[keith.froom]

yes the rain will make a big difference always have a tin of primer to cover any work otherwise rust will kick in and the job is ruined even if you leave it overnight spray it you can always sand it off next morning

[ade]

Dees Nova - I work in Greenock! (t-mobile). We'll need to meet up some time n take a look at yer car...

Primer is semi pourous (halfords is anyway) - I used primer from cans ages ago and drove around with it in the primered state for a few weeks. When I came to spray it I had to strip it back cos the primer (white at the time) had turned yellow with rust!

For more hints n tips on this sort of stuff, check out my website at the end of September - rebuilding me nova to a GSi and keeping a log. I'll post the launch date when ready :D

[DEE'S NOVA]

ade have u got a pic of ur car as i might see it ltying in the car park at work.if u see a mk3 astra red with a big mig sticker on the back window and 15" 5 spokes that's me

[ade]

havnt got a "decent" pic I'm afraid - its a bit shagged at the moment.
Its a red (but a nice shade of pink) nova mk2 with a mk1 wrap spoiler and black middle strip on the hatch (like the GSi). Lowered 60mm with GSi 3 spoke wheels.
The front looks like its been in a sand blasting tunnel!
Not for much longer though...

I'll try and take a pic when I wash it!

Ade