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ade
30-11-07, 02:01 AM
Right - doing a Baxter and decided to get myself a MIG welder. Not used one in a LONG time and even then it was brief.

I'll start small (plenty of practice on scrop metal) but want to tackle my rear arches.

Have just sourced from rear arches for me 3 door nova (small standard arch panels not full 1/4 panels) but need advice on best method to use.

The main issue is do I butt weld or lap weld new panel to existing panel?

Figure the following is about right so far -

- offer up new panel to old one
- draw round edge of new panel onto old one
- cut round edge drawn (perhaps leaving a little extra on below drawn line)
- undrill spot welds on sill (no inner lip so no spot welds there)

then do I lap weld or butt weld new panel to old one?
How do I anchor it to keep it still long enough to put tack welds in place.
Know I need to use grips but where do you anchor them to?

- once thats solved I need to bead the entire edge to join fully
- attach to sill using drilled hole in new panel and spot style weld through hole to sill then to new panel.
- grind down excess weld
- skim, seal etc...

The bit in red's the bit I aint too sure about.

Also - how to do you guys tackle the inner arch when theres no inner lip? Do you build a new inner lip and weld to old one, then spot style weld to new outer skin?

Please post up your tried step by step processes. Add any pics or other advice.

And no - I wont take it to a body shop - none near me that are free at the moment and I need to teach myself. Spent enough last year getting all the structural welds done properly - figure the none structural ones I can do myself - there's plenty of other litlte none structural areas I can get on with before starting on the arches.

Ta muchly

Ade

GRUNT 16V
30-11-07, 07:57 AM
As you put it 'i butt welded mine dont seam weld as this will fook the panel you should spot weld at 25/30 mm intervals then when complete all the way allow it to cool down then spot weld between the previous welds.Then grind the welds down then skim with filler until its smooth as fook.

coombsey
30-11-07, 10:14 AM
http://www.pngclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84568

craig green
30-11-07, 11:18 AM
Use a Joggler tool to really help with getting the new panel snug under the cut off line, plus it makes the welding easier IMO.

bump
30-11-07, 12:30 PM
Then grind the welds down then skim with filler until its smooth as fook.

Use a flap disk as it reduces the need for filler. After a while you'll find that you can do it all with weld.

mikey14sr
30-11-07, 02:47 PM
Dont use the full repair panel, just use enough to get back to good metal. I butt welded this one in, difficult for a first time welder, lots of practice on similar thickness sheet is the key to getting good.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v689/mickyd79/Project/osrarch2.jpg

Using a joggling tool can be an easier way to do it. decide how much repair panel your going to use and trim it down. Offer up to the car and trace the outline of the new piece. Cut the original metal away leaving 10mm before the outline. Joggle away and the new piece should sit flush with the panel outside of the traced line. It can then be tacked in place with a few plug welds and then you can go around it seam weld half inch, miss half inch, untill all the way around, being carefull to keep the temperaure down to avoid distortion.

ade
01-12-07, 10:40 AM
a joggler on ebay is ?40!

Might be worth it though - many have recommended to me since posting this...

Paul
01-12-07, 01:01 PM
remember when welding, take it really slowly, the heat will distort the panel quickly.

mikey14sr
01-12-07, 02:58 PM
Best to give the panel some time to cool down in-between welds aswell.