Bad Luck Begins, URGENT HELP?!

[krobinson]

I was fitting the new threaded nut into the block to fit my oil feed, when the threaded cast broke off. I'm in very bad form about this, and all i can see is major bills and a new block being needed :(

Can anyone give me a really good solution which doesnt involve removing the engine and going for a new block?

PLEASEEE???

Pic:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v37/keithrobinson/6304b1f6.jpg

Keith

[mikey14sr]

Isnt it a brand new genuine gm engine? with warrantee?

[krobinson]

Recon with Warrenty, but tbh I do NOT want to remove it.

Keith

[Stuart]

its warrantied, take it out..... its a little bit of baf for long term PROPER fix as opposed to a bodge.... which you of all people dont do.

[krobinson]

Warrentys Void as i've fitted ARP bolts and metal Tensioners. Would mean swapping all this back before taking it back to Vaux. And another 3 month wait for another engine.

I'm sure there's another way to sort it.

I've managed to screw in the blanking screw that came in the engine, it almost blocks off the hole. If i can somehow refit the broken off pieces, either weld or chemical metal them on it will seal. Then use an alternative oil feed.

Keith

Keith

[Stuart]

are you SERIOUSLY considering chemical metal....

[GRUNT 16V]

Either way its going to have to come out . ie to repair it properly/ warranty

[krobinson]

are you SERIOUSLY considering chemical metal....

Well i'm looking for some options other than removing the engine and getting a new block, which will cost a bloody fortune, and its money and time I just dont have.

Keith

[Welsh Dan]

Could you get the broken bits tigged back on, then the thread re-tapped?

[NovaLad]

Wouldn't you rather do it properly and take it out and get a new block rather than a year down the line have problems with it?

[krobinson]

I'm sure there's a solution somewhere which doesnt involve a new block.

[Stuart]

Well i'm looking for some options other than removing the engine and getting a new block, which will cost a bloody fortune, and its money and time I just dont have.

Keith

was merely commenting on the apparent disregard for common sense/engineering thought... I appreciate you may not be an engineer but youve been dicking about with cars long enough to know that chemical metaling a block is a 'king stupid idea.

called your fave engine builder for an idea.....?

[krobinson]

was merely commenting on the apparent disregard for common sense/engineering thought... I appreciate you may not be an engineer but youve been dicking about with cars long enough to know that chemical metaling a block is a 'king stupid idea.

called your fave engine builder for an idea.....?

I was simply brainstorming to try and get some proper help. As said I can pretty much block the hole with the blanking screw.

Looking at the pic, i can see the thread go's in pretty deep, so this is probably the solution. Blank the hole and use an alt feed.

Keith

[Welsh Dan]

Well, if you can blank it with a bolt, could you just get a longer fixing made up to reach the thread that a blanking bolt would use, and loctite it?

[krobinson]

Also a possibility mate!

[Nick]

Will it not drive you mad ? knowing that it's probably the only imperfection on the whole car.

I know 3 Months seems along time, but surely you want everything to be right

Also, if there is something wrong with the casting of the block.. i'd probably want to ditch it and start again !

[krobinson]

Managed to screw the blanking grub that vauxhall supplied back into the hole:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v37/keithrobinson/658957c2.jpg

Its about 2/3 threads deep into the main hole.

Hopeing this will secure the pressure? Where else can I take an oil feed from?

Keith

[Welsh Dan]

If thats the return, then you could return it at the top of the sump.

[krobinson]

Its the Oil feed, must edit first post.

[krobinson]

Look Here: http://www.muggyweld.com/cast.html

[Stuart]

in that case, I'd get some treaded tube that fits the hole, screw that in, get the lump of cast in place and weld the lump back on.

then take an oil feed off the threaded tube..

Or simply keep the bung in there and weld the lump back on never to remove the bung again.

[mikey14sr]

Even with the threaded tube, you'll most likely have to run a tap through the thread after the heat from the welding's been on it.

Same goes for blocking it up and drilling a new feed if there isn't another available.

[bump]

Welding cast isn't really an issue, however you'll struggle to peen that without causing furthur damage as there isn't much meat there to start with.

[matthew172]

i would use some plumbers tape like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2X-PTFE-TAPE-P-T-F-E-PLUMBERS-THREAD-SEALING-PIPE-PFTE_W0QQitemZ160182264842QQihZ006QQcategoryZ3191Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem around the blanking plug, that will stop the leaks as thats what i used when plumbing the pressure sender up for my stack dash and its never leaked.

use this oil supply instead
http://www.astra-mk2.com/0ddball/pressure_senders/sender05.jpg

you may have to get a short length of pipe made up to reach this supply though

[krobinson]

in that case, I'd get some treaded tube that fits the hole, screw that in, get the lump of cast in place and weld the lump back on.

then take an oil feed off the threaded tube..

Or simply keep the bung in there and weld the lump back on never to remove the bung again.

Yeah, on Mig i've been shown 2 other places the oil feed can be taken from, which is good to hear.

Plan now is to make sure that screw is secure so that there's no leak.

There's a bit of pressure behind there at full RPM but this will be let out through the alternative feed.

Keith

[matthew172]

or you could use one of these
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NOVA-ASTRA-CORSA-GTE-SRI-GSI-2-0-16V-XE-GAUGE-ADAPTOR_W0QQitemZ150182199107QQihZ005QQcategoryZ10 404QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[krobinson]

Awsome matthew, you've been a great help, thanks :D

[Adam]

Hmm, id be a abit wary about just having the blank screw fitted in there.
Hopefully it'll be ok, it would not be cool for it to suddenly start leaking, loose oil pressure,and kill the whole engine, turbo included...

If its threaded in quite far, should be ok.

Not good news tho, id be rather pissed off personally that the block doesn't have the turbo feed union/thread fitted in the first place, id expect that from a recon engine, if it was ordered specifically as a C20LET.

[R1CH]

Hmm ... doesn't look to good !!
Obviously the best way would be to take it out and get another block but i can see where your coming from, the thing i'd be worried about is if its cracked anywhere else around where the chunks came off, don't want a small crack gradually getting bigger over time then letting go and taking your engine with it !!
If your confident that it isn't cracked anywhere else and that the grub screw goes in and tightens up propperly then it 'should' be ok, not sure how PTFE tape would fair up (would oil not damage it?), we use Loctite 290 (not 100% sure if thats the right number, will find out tomorrow) on the Turbo Oil feeds at work and never have any probs.

Rich

[krobinson]

A fella on MIG is sending me Loctite 5398 which is rated to 350 degrees. Going to fit the nut with that. I'm pretty confident there's no other damage. I can just hope that the hole will be sealed.

Keith

[R1CH]

Cool hopefully that will sort the job, if not give me a shout, could soon dispence some stuff from work into a small bottle for you if needed.
(think its Loctite 620 we use the oil feed fitting not 290 !!)

Edit: By the looks of it Loctite 5398 is more of a sealant (comes in a mastic type tube) for sealing / bonding things together rather than for sealing threads, doesn't seem to be used for sealing 'oil' either.
Can soon find out what they use to seal stuff up on the engines at work.
Also just found out that 620 is ?122 for a 250ml bottle !! lol

Rich