View Full Version : uprating 1600 8v gsi block
got my hands on a spare block and i want to make it strong so i can have silly power 1600 safely:D anyone know whats the best thing to do and what bits im gonna need, im going to have it overbored with uprated conrod bolts and hopefully uprated bearings but anything else anyone can help me with?
Shot peened/deseamed rods.
And have the whole lot balanced.
Altho, just a set of ARP rod bolts on a standard bottom end would be ok tho. Everything else is for reliability really.
macc nova
09-08-07, 05:18 PM
headwork, twin 40's, cam, the possibilites are endless! lol
needs to be reliable really, where would i get that done and how much would it set me back?
macc nova
09-08-07, 05:19 PM
/\ sorry read it wrong
needs to be reliable really, where would i get that done and how much would it set me back?
Look in yellow pages for engine reconditioners/engineering.
craig green
09-08-07, 05:23 PM
Process called tuffriding you can use for the crank, pistons & rods I think.
A 16XE bottom end is stronger anyway. Depending what route you choose to tune it will be a factor for what parts you buy.
Tbh the block & most of the std internals will not pose any problems if N/A.
There is a 300bhp turbo'd 1.6 8v in Finland. Thats more like it!
lol was just about to say, the R1 carbs are on the way hopefully, cam soon and 4 branch on the way lol i know the possibilitys i just want it to be strong lol
Tbh, i'd just fit a set of ARP rod bolts and leave it at that.
But thats probably just me being a bit "pikey" lol
im getting R1 carbs, cam, 4 branch, twin valve springs, hopefully a big valve head and an overbore, would i be safe just having it balanced and ARP rod bolts?
lol im a bit 'pikey' myself
craig green
09-08-07, 05:29 PM
I'd say yes. Theres no need for race spec bearing shells, whatever they are.
Proper engineering (boring/honing) & build quality is paramount tbh.
Plus run it in proper, not pussy footing around for 1000 miles!
would i be safe just having it balanced and ARP rod bolts?
If you dont go mental with the revs, yes :thumb:
Plus run it in proper, not pussy footing around for 1000 miles!
lol what you mean?
No "keep below 2k revs for 500mile"
Plenty of overrun
thought there was a reason for keeping the revs low for so many miles
Yeah, grannys ;) If you want the engine to be fast and last longer than get the revs up and get some pressure on the rings for the first few hundred miles then you can drive it normally. Don't put it under load though I.e full throttle low speed hill climbing......
Don't have it bored though as the small block 1600's are close to the water jackets anyway.....
You want plenty of 3k revs, then back off and let it run down, then back to 3k, overrun down, etc etc.
Vacuum is at its max on overrun, so it forces the rings into the cylinder walls to bed them in.
sound:thumb: (http://www.pngclub.com/forum/viewfeaturecar.php?ref=2956)
And whats the best thing to do to a 1.6 8v block/bottom end if turbo'in?
planned spec
Aftermarket management(megasquirt or something)
race spec cam
head alredy has bigger valves and minor polishing(will get it finished of)
Just a fresh rebuild.
ARP bolts aren't really needed with a low peak turbo(T2 etc), as you'll make peak power at below the standard 6000ish limiter. So standard bolts are fine at those revs.
You'll also need a custom cam grind, as a race spec NA cam is no good for a turbo motor.
You'll also need a custom cam grind, as a race spec NA cam is no good for a turbo motor.
Any idea were i can get one done?
aye :S lol whey did that come from
CatCams
oki matey. catcams.beor somthin right?
whatsort of lift/duration should i go for?
catcams.be yeah
imho for a turbo lump you want something like a kent AST2 spec (lift/duration) but have the overlap dialed out. CatCams really know their shizzle so its probably bets to talk to them direct about what you want. But usually for a performance cam in a turbo lump means solid lifters as the ramp rates are V harsh
mad-driver
09-08-07, 09:09 PM
Dayne you had a rebuild 16k ago, and that engine is mint, you know its quick. Of course i know why you want a big bottom end... lol
Also for a turbo application I would avoid a rebore at all costs.... since an overbore increased the compression ratio
womble sri
09-08-07, 10:52 PM
sorry to hi jack but can you use the baby valver block with an 8v head are the exhaust ports the same and would it be a simple swap?
Dayne you had a rebuild 16k ago, and that engine is mint, you know its quick. Of course i know why you want a big bottom end... lol
lol quiet you!! seriously though dont want it going bang lol
womble sri
09-08-07, 11:42 PM
Yeah, grannys ;) If you want the engine to be fast and last longer than get the revs up and get some pressure on the rings for the first few hundred miles then you can drive it normally. Don't put it under load though I.e full throttle low speed hill climbing......
Don't have it bored though as the small block 1600's are close to the water jackets anyway.....
i heard that about the jackets does that make them blow? i heard the c14se (1400) bottom end was better to bore due to water jackets but my engineer told me it would only go to 1550 or something?
the 1600 will goto 1650 easily.... thats the max that is needed really, but as said it cranks the CR up though
mad-driver
10-08-07, 06:19 PM
Nothing wrong with an overbore, my 1640 block seems fine.
Dayne, it wil be fine i'm sure, you could stick some better rod bolts in if you wanted, but i still think there is something in that engine that you don't know about... its too quick!
Besides remember how strong and bullproof my 1400 was, even at 160k
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.