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View Full Version : Bike Carbs to a 1400 sri



Martin
20-06-07, 04:10 PM
Hello...

Just A Quickie

what do i need to do to be able to fit some back cars to a 1400 8v sri engine?

what bits do i need?

would it be easier just to get bogg bros to make a manifold or DIY?



Ta Martin

Adam
20-06-07, 05:08 PM
Obviously its easier to buy a ready made inlet, costs more tho.

Use a sr ignition setup.

And a low pressure fuel pump.

Get the carbs modded to suit a 1400.

dj-kicks
21-06-07, 10:04 AM
have you thought about bike tbs like off a gxer?

Martin
21-06-07, 10:26 AM
i want to stay carbs soi dotn have to mess around with aftermarket ignition etc

london_chris
21-06-07, 12:01 PM
i assume when u say an sri engine that it isnt in a sri car, if it is then i wouldnt bover putting carbs on as it will fail mot on emmissions

Martin
21-06-07, 12:03 PM
nah its not its a J-reg non cat

Martin
21-06-07, 12:14 PM
electronic advance version with a little plug on the dizzy.


wil that work for bike carbs?

alan b
21-06-07, 12:17 PM
the sri distributer wont do it. you need the sr one it has cintrifugal weights in it to advance timing, along with vacumm advance. the sri one is electronic and the ecu sets the advance to my knowledge!

blue_peg_16v
21-06-07, 12:27 PM
definatly need an sr one not an sri.

shame you dont want bike throttlebodies ive got a set of r6 ones in the garage

thought you were going for a 1.6 lump?

Martin
21-06-07, 12:28 PM
i have a brand new 1.4sr dizzy but needs tthe little drive cog at the end! its the electronic advance version with a little plug on the dizzy!

so that wont fit then alan?

Stuart
21-06-07, 12:46 PM
TB's on a 1400 8V would be a tad futile anyway.... the carbs would be a bit more suited to it.

Martin
21-06-07, 01:13 PM
yea i was always gona get carbs stu..


just read your guide.. rather handy mate..


is it realy worth puttin a 1600 8v head on?

also how much roughly should i be looking to pay for a full rebuild?(bores honed, new rings, deseam and shot peen the rods and fit ARP rod bolts with new big end/main bearings,+1mm overbore and pistons to suit)

what shouldi get done to the 1400 head(sayin i keep it)? just go and ask for it rebuilt? or take the whole engine and ask for a full rebuild with all of the above?

Stuart
21-06-07, 01:23 PM
the 1600 comment was down to if you had a non 14se engine.... you need to skim the 1600 head down to get the CR right.

you "might" need a rebore and pistson, depends if the bores are funked etc. but a rebuild should be about ?500 ish

the head would benefit from being stipped down, cleaned up valves relapped, maybe if the seats are funked then get them recut to 3 angle + the valves too, new stem seals and thats about it really. head work isnt vital tbh as the se head is ace.

Adam
21-06-07, 01:29 PM
Definently use a SE head, as round ports will also make it easier to make an inlet.
A std 16se head needs around a 15thou skim to get it to normal 1400 cr.

Martin
21-06-07, 01:55 PM
Ok kool cheers guys..


just need to get the engine payed for then away for the rebuild


Martin

Adam
21-06-07, 02:07 PM
If your having a 1mm bore, i'd advise starting with a 1600 block in the first place..... Then just new rings/hone, bearings, and sorted. A lot cheaper than boring a 1400 block.