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View Full Version : Technical Question - RE 2.0l 8v



Anonymous
13-11-01, 09:33 AM
Part of this post is my original post from last week, its alot of info buut please read to familiarise yourself with the whole situation.


I had my engine wired up yesterday at Novatech in slough Cavalier 2.0l 8v. When I went to pick it up, the car was running fine and I drove it home, about 3 miles (mostly in traffic) so I didn?t boot it. Just as I got to my house I heard this weird noise coming from the engine. The only way I can describe the noise is to say that it sounds like a transit van / diesel engine. When I start the engine it doesn?t do it straight away, it has to be running for a min or 2 first, then it starts making this noise. When the revs are increased the noise gets louder and quicker. Its almost like a banging sound coming from inside the engine. Also the fan kept coming on every 30 ? 45 seconds and the engine was really hot, even though it had only been running for about 15 minutes.

Before the engine went in the car, I checked the oil and it was VERY black. I checked it when I got the car back and the oil is a light brown colour and looks watery, also the water in the expansion bottle is a brownish sludgy colour. This suggests to me that the head gasket has gone. I am going to get the head skimmed, a new gasket and head bolts fitted at the weekend, I also need to fit a GTE radiator as Im using a 1.4sr one and it might be too small for the 2.0l.

This is what Bernie at Novatech told me to do ?


1. Change head gasket and get head skimmed, new head bolts.

2. Get a 1.6 GTE radiator.

3. I need to fit an oil pressure switch, as there wasn?t one on the engine.


I am going to do all of these things ASAP. However this still doesn?t explain the sound of the engine. Bernie told me that the engine was running sweet while it was with him, and it was fine till I got home (maybe enough time for engine to reach temp enough for water and oil to mix). And it doesn?t do it all of the time, only after a few mins of running. It starts off intermittent and gets more frequent until it?s doing it constantly. Bernie said he thinks from my description that is sounds like the engine is really badly pinking.

Do you have any ideas as to what might be wrong with it and how to sort it ?

-----

So, I took the head off and took it in to be skimmed, de coked, I had the valves replaced, cam shaft and cam housing cleaned and de coked, new lifters etc. I put it all back together on Saturday with a new gasket kit, new water pump, thermostat and I did a full oil change, plugs leads, dizzy, oil filter and finally a new cam belt.

I took it to Extreme motorsports in Iver yesterday to have the timing belt fitted as something didn?t seem right when fitting it myself so I thought I?d let a pro do it for me.

The moment of truth, I went back to pick up the car and it was running !!!! Woo hoo, I drove it out of the road and, GUESS WHAT !!!!! It started making the same fucking noise as it was before I did all this head work !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So I took it back and asked him to have a look at it. He reckons one of the pistons is fucked. ??????

BOLLOCKS !!!

Back to square 1, and quite a few pounds worse off.

What do I do now ??

Opinions please ?

P.S I?m seriously lacking in money and patience and I need it sorted pretty damn quick as my temporary car cannot be used after the 30th which is 2 weeks fri.

?????????

Anonymous
13-11-01, 09:49 AM
I didn't comment on the first post as I don't like suggesting things that will cost money if I'm not 100%. It sounded originaly and even more now like your bottom end is pretty much shafted. The noises you describe are not piston but crankshaft. I too had this recently and had to have the crankshaft re-ground. The knocking noise is not evident on start up as the oil is still cold and thick which helps to keep oil pressure up, but once warmed to running temperature, the oil will thin out and pressure will drop. The oil will be forced out of the worn shells easily which will result in a diesel like knocking noise. I'm affraid its serious. Maybe you had water in the oil long enough for the damage to be done. You either need to rebuild the bottm end, or buy a new one.

**Why take 16V's onto the track when u can use 8?**

Anonymous
13-11-01, 10:30 AM
why not buy a another engine Dam? there not expensive? cheaper then fannying around fixing your current lump


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Anonymous
13-11-01, 10:44 AM
I only really have 2 options.

1. Try and fix whats wrong eith the current engine. It could be the piston, or as MC says it could be (more than likely) the crankshaft, or it could be the crankshaft bearing. The only way of finding out for definite is to take the engine apart. It's likely to roll into the hundreds to get the bottom end fixed.

or

2. Buy another 2.0l 8v engine. This option is probably cheaper and quicker (if I can get hold of one) but how can I be sure there will be no problems with the new engine ?

Anonymous
13-11-01, 11:05 AM
If the Crankshaft shell bearings are worn, the crankshaft will be worn too. No escaping it.

If you buy a new lump. Try to hear it running. Inspect inside the rocker cover and look for cam wear. If thats worn the bottom end will be too. Try taking the sump off and look to see how clean it is and if there is any swarf lying around. Check the condition of the oil. Take a spark plug out and look inside with a torch to see if there is any evidence of marking in the bores. You could go on for ever.

**Why take 16V's onto the track when u can use 8?**

Anonymous
13-11-01, 11:36 AM
yup sounds like the bottom end is shafted :(
now as u have just spent all that money on the top end, u are far better off getting your bottom end changed for a exhanged rebuilt unit. This means that at least u will have in effect a brand new rebuilt engine which will live for a long time, I know its a pain in the arse, I have just spent ?800 on the top end ov my engine for it to start making horrible banging noises from the pistons, i was extremly lucky, i was so fed up with the car i gave it to a rebore garage to see what was up with it as i was ready to smash it up. When i fitted the cylinder head i forgot to add the small dowel things in to the block so the head gasket sits square and the piston was hitting a part ov the head gasket.

im picking it up later, finnaly
its cost me
3 sets ov head bolts
3 head gaskets
1 cylinder head
1 fuel return injection bridging pipe
3 oil changes
3 antifreeze changes
1 turbo

all in the last 3 weeks X-(

Micky@novaload.net :)

Anonymous
13-11-01, 12:11 PM
sounds like were having a bad month micky. I just noticed my mot's due in 2 weeks as well.

This month ive spent ?391 on 30% of insurance, ?250 + on head ?20 Cam belt, ?50 fitting Cam belt, ?40 on towing costs, ?140 wiring loom and ECU, ?40 on K&N, ?30 on servicing parts. My road tax expires in 17 days and my mot expires in 15 days.
Not to mention insurance on my temporary car.

And the car still doesn't work !!!!

Could I buy a rebuilt unit ? if so, what would it be likely to cost me ?

Anonymous
13-11-01, 01:19 PM
look for sumbody that sells
exchange short engines in your local yellow pages. try all the local reboreing shops

Micky@novaload.net :)

Anonymous
14-11-01, 01:38 PM
Why not buy a cheap and cheerful 2l 8v to put in for the time being (?2-300?) to get back on the road. Doesn't have to be a good one, just enough to last 6 months. Then you can take your time to rebuild the bottom end on the other engine over the winter. Easier to work on it whist it's out of the car, you could even save some money and get a lightened n balanced crankshaft. Seems a waste to not to use the engine having splashed out on head skimming, valves etc. etc.
Thats my thoughts!

Anonymous
14-11-01, 02:33 PM
Whats the oil pressure like? If its not too bad, and the knocking is only when warn there is a good chance the engine will last quite a while b4 going bang. Enough time for you to find a replacement block and work on it. I drove mine for ages and gave it a good thrashing on a regular basis, even 1/4 mile runs while it was fecked, and that lasted and performed pretty well!

**Why take 16V's onto the track when u can use 8?**

Anonymous
14-11-01, 03:13 PM
The noise starts after the car has been running for about 2 minutes and it does it constanly after that. It doesn't do it when just idling, only when the revs are increased to 1 and 1/2 thousand rpm. Im going to take the engine out and try and get a cheap temporary replacement untill I can afford to get the bottom end rebuilt. Once the bottom end has been done I can put the rebuilt head on it and I will effectively have a new engine.

Im pretty sure I can't drive it as it is, the noise is really quite bad. The guy who told me the pistons fucked said I shouldn't drive it. I may as well do it while the cars off the road. Ive just got to try and get hold of another 2.0l 8v engine now !!!