SUMP GASKET

[Anonymous]

i noticed yesterday that i needed a new sump gasket, how hard is it to do and would i be able to slide it from under the manifold as i noticed that the manifold runs under the sump or is it the manifold of job. also i have a f15 box and aint got a flywheel cover does the ones off f10,f13 boxes fit or does it have to be one of a f15. Because my sumps leakin oil might get in there and fook my cluch up wont it? and i dont want it do that as ive just ad a new one.:)

[Anonymous]

They are a total pain in the ar5e in my opinion. You've gotta disconnect the down pipe at the manifold...just drop the exhaust down that should give you enough room.

The pain really is the sump baffle, this has to come off to get to the first gasket (there are two). To get the baffle off you have to remove the oil pickup pipe - this gets messy so get some rubber gloves.

When you bolt it all back together make sure the pick up pipe is torqued up - and try to clean the block of loose oil inside. The reason I say this is that oil will drip down as you put the new gaskets together..this will bugger up the mating faces.

Get the gaskets from Vauxhall (pattern gaskets are 5hite) oh, and use plenty of Hylomar Blue gasket sealing paste. I didn't and had to do it all again.

As for your flywheel cover question I've no idea, at a guess I would say you could get it to fit. But the oil dripping onto the flywheel will definitely bugger the clutch...mine still judders ;(

Hope this helps. Ben.

[Anonymous]

I'm gonna be doing this soon 'cos I've got a leak from the sump.

It's a dead easy job......just a load of bolts to un-do then off it comes....well, speaking from experience, you may have to persuade it to come off with a wide edged chisel in the gap, 'cos they tend to stick well to the engine.

You should be able to remove it without touching the zorst as it can slide out...put it this way, the Haynes doesn't mention touching the zorst.
You need the usual compliment of gaskets and sealing compound and that's about it.
Just make sure you tighten the bolts up as instructed i.e. "progressively tightened in a diagonal sequence"

[Anonymous]

Oh yeah, and be a little bit careful when you tighten the bolts around the oil pump housing...the threads strip rather easily as I found out. (The housing is made from aluminium alloy).

Ben

[Anonymous]

y do u av to unbolt the oilpump also wat r the torque settins for the sump and oil pump and also is the orderto tighten up the sump in the haynesy

[Anonymous]

doh!!! I now feel REALLY stupid :p

Ignore everything I said above.....I was looking at the instructions for the 1.0 engine !!!!

I thought something didn't seam right!

For me it's gonna be easier to remove the zorst manifold 'cos I'll never get the down-pipe to manifold bolts un-done!

[Anonymous]

There's no mention of touching the oil pump, so to answer your question...nope, you don't have to unbolt it.

The torque setting for the sump bolts is only 5Nm or 4 lbf ft

[Anonymous]

There are a few sump bolts that bolt into the oil pump housing (on the pulley end of the engine). The oil pump housing is made from aluminium and is (in comparison to the cast iron block) soft. So when you go to re-tighten the bolts be careful not to overtighten. Its easy to overtighten, because the gaskets are soft and therefore compress - making it difficult to feel just how tight the bolts are.

Oh yeah, put plenty of sealant on the little gaps at each end of the block...you'll see exactly what I mean when you remove the sump.

As Rich says though it might be easier for you to just undo the manifold as opposed to unbolting the down pipe.

If you can though, get the car up on wheel ramps...makes it much easier!! Oh yeah, and dont pick a cold evening to do it - you'll only get pissed off like I did. Twice!!

Ben.

[Anonymous]

um i found it really easy appart from the metal from the exhaust bolts in my eye. the only fiddly bit is the 2-3 bolts where the sump is deepest at the fly end. the torque is quite low and as far as i was aware only 1 gasket

its simple really

Dave Pearce, hmm he mixes like a man with no hands

[Anonymous]

Ah, I didn't realise that not all nova engines had sump baffles...you might have just the one gasket then.

Ben.

[Anonymous]

mine had a sump baffle. but still only one gasket

Dave Pearce, hmm he mixes like a man with no hands

[Anonymous]

Nah that should be two gaskets, one between the block and baffle and one between the sump and baffle...Unless the baffle design is different from your engine to mine?!? (E16SE).

Ben.

[Anonymous]

only one gasket on the 14NV

16v Nova - Toolkit comes as standard :)