Problem Accelerating (loose cam belt???) water pump is stuck!

[beavy69]

OK finished fitting new head and cam (AST 2 - ported head - 1.3 engine - 32/34 carb)

Runs (barely) on idle and as soon as the clutch engages to pull away the engine won?t pull, I have to push the accelerator whereby it jumps and so I stop or it just dies.

However, if I can more closely match the engine and wheel speed (e.g. rolling down hill when pulling away in 1st) and I keep accelerating sharply it will fly away no probs but as soon as I stop accelerating it wants to die again.

I have a loose cam belt (movement between the longest section is over 1" Vs the recommended 1/4") and I think this is the problem (The sharp acceleration I can achieve, as this is producing sufficient tension in the belt between cam and block but then it is lost again at idle - that?s my theory anyway?)

So here in lies the real question (I hope!!) I have no "later model belt tensioner" and so cam belt tension is adjusted via swivelling the water pump - which won?t move! I haven?t a spanner quite large enough for the flats on the body of it and an adjustable wrench won?t fit in the gap. I've tried tapping it (persuasively) from various angles and large adjustable pliers won?t grip enough.

1) ANY SUGGESTIONS AS TO HOW TO MOVE THE B'STARD?

2) AND IS THAT ACTUALLY THE PROBLEM? (I did think it might have been the carb at first so I spent all this morning taking that apart and servicing it.)

I've ordered a new cam belt (yes I know I should have done that in the first place) in the hope that the new tightness will solve the problem (until it stretches).

Thanks for reading and any help with 1) + 2) greatly appreciated.

7im.

[Welsh Dan]

May aswell replace the water pump while you're at it, just to be sure.

[beavy69]

Can't see much point unless I had to smash it out as it works fine and they arn't cheep. Plus since swapping the head my heater system (for the cab) is amazing - heats up in seconds now as all the waterways are clearer.

Do you agree that the loose belt is my problem then? It make sence but I wanted to check as someone will have a better idea than me.

[Adam]

Check your ignition timing.
Is the 32/34 jetted for your engine?
Sounds like a timing or fueling problem.

Is the cambelt timing spot on?

The slightly loose belt wont be your problem, as the teeth are a tight fit in the sprockets so the belt can't slip about and send the cam timing out. The belt can't be mega slack as the waterpump will atleast have put some tension on it. And if the engine will run and the belt isn't jumping teeth, its not the problem.
If will run fine with a slack belt, but just might slip/jump off, is it slack enough to slide the belt off the cam sprocket by hand??

For the waterpump, undo the 3 allen bolts and if your not wanting the pump t**t the fook out of the sprocket end of the pump with a lump hammer, keep hitting it towards the bulkhead, then back towards the slam panel etc and that will loosen it up.
Fit a new pump with some silicone grease on the O-ring, finger tighten the bolts, set the cam timing and then set the tension. Pumps are mega cheap tbh, about ?18.


You should be able turn the belt 90deg between the waterpump and cam sprocket iirc.

[beavy69]

Checked ignition timing with light and vacc hose off etc but wasn't able to get the best reading because the timing mark kept moving as it was running so lumpy and when I played with the carb to keep the revs up (to keep it running!) the timing mark moved again.

32/34 is jetted ok and was working fine before.

Because I couldn't move the pump I un-did the cam sproket to get the belt off. I could have tugged it off my hand but didn't wanna stretch it/ruin it.

Timing marks where lined up as and after I put the belt back on so can't see why they would have moved (unless that could be a result of the slack belt as I thought) but will check the timing again tomorrow.

[Adam]

The belts probably fine, i usually undo the cam sprocket to remove the belt too, a lot easier, and have re-fitted the belt in the same way, alls been fine.

Did the head look sound? All valves ok?

I'd definently check the cam timing is spot on.

[beavy69]

Yeah head looked great, I spent a good few days cleaning polishing and lapping etc and used a GM gasket doing everything methodically as always:

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d149/beavy69/P1030843.jpg

[SRI crazy]

the belt could be jumping when u try to rev it and going off the timing and cuming back on again, check and see if u can adjust ur idle on the carb to try and get ot to idle a bit better, u check to that the vacuum pipe going to the brake servo isnt split or damaged as this can affect the running to, might be worth a look

[beavy69]

K this is pissing me off beyond belief now. I re checked the cam timing and made sure there was good tension between the cam and sprocket but still can't shift the water pump to tension the rest of the belt.

It's not loose enough to slip as it would just come off. You can move it about and inch.

I have got it to idle and rechecked the ig timing which is fine.

Checked emulsion tubes n idle jets for blockages and they are fine, carb accelerator pump works fine.

It idles but cant pull away properly all it can do is floor it and idle. Try pulling awa smoothly and it just dies.

I have tried every idle mix setting under the sun and its not that.

[Adam]

Have you used the 32/34 on the engine before?

All worked fine?

Do you have another carb you could try?
A old 2e3 or something?

[beavy69]

Yes worked fine before but I'll try fitting the 2e3 tomorrow if I/someone cant think of anything else to check first.

[Adam]

Sounds like the main jet could be too lean or something so its stuttering when you begin to accelerate slowly from idle jet to the main jet...
When rapidly accelerating the accelerator pump is richening the mixture keeping it running.....
Not sure tho. I aint a carb expert,Lol.

[beavy69]

Unfortunatly I don't think it can be that as its got the reccomended jets for a 1.3 and my mate runs the same on a 1.6 golf with no probs. Plus you literlally have to do a good race start and proper floor it to get going anywhere.

[Adam]

Have you checked simple things like good spark?
HT Leads on the right order etc?

[beavy69]

Well I get a little shock from each lead as always but may as well check them properly lol

[Adam]

1/3/4/2 on the cap, in anticlockwise direction.

[Novadave06]

i cannot see it being your waterpump! that doesnt keep the engine running and if it didnt work your bottomend would of went by now ! so really changing the waterpump is pointless

[Adam]

He's not wanting change the pump, he's trying turn it to tension the cambelt...

[beavy69]

Thanks for the input mate but I don't think you got what I meant, I can't swivel the pump (as it's stuck) and so my cam belt is a bit loose but I think we've established that that is not my problem; perhaps I should start a new thread with different title if I can't find it to be the carb?

[Novadave06]

oh rite sorry mate

[beavy69]

see new thread now: HELP; Mystery: Wont pull away after head/cam change. (http://www.novaload.net/forum/showthread.php?t=71159)