View Full Version : chassy leg ajustment
hey, my car is gettin the bay strengthned on friday so wile the mans at it im going to get the leg ajused to take a big block as it may happen in time to come
pics etc would be great, cheers
lee coley
26-11-06, 05:29 PM
cant get picture up but theres a picture in projects,on a blue nova with the 2ltr red top in it!sory about the pic!!
Philsutton
26-11-06, 06:58 PM
The pikey way is to hit it with the biggest lump hammer you can find and thus smash your chasis leg out the way.
The proper way to do it is to cut out a U shape and push it all back out teh way and then weld it all up. A picture would explain it much better though lol
lee coley
27-11-06, 05:16 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v493/TonySR/rebuildk.jpg
Have you got the size of the hole that needs to be cut out please ? :thumb:
dose anyone see anything wrong with this yway of doing it? any other tips before all happenes?? cheers
anyone any advice?
cheers
The pikey way is to hit it with the biggest lump hammer you can find and thus smash your chasis leg out the way.
Best bit about doing a conversion on a Nova is being allowed to beat it with a hammer! Nowt wrong with it if you have a nice clean dent!
Ive bought them with no chassis leg modifing lol thats fun!
Disclaimer: cutting section out and welding IS the preffered way just a tad boring!
Philsutton
30-11-06, 07:38 PM
lol yeah hitting novas is mucho fun. I too have had the pleasure of coming across novas with no modification on the chasis, the guy had dropped right down on the drivers side so engine was almost dragging along the floor on one side.
rednova
30-11-06, 09:41 PM
tbh Id rather hit the chassis leg rather than cut and weld a section in as it is reducing the area of the top of the leg , this would weaken it i would have thought? could be wrong plus a nice smooth hollow would look better
No, a chop and well will weaken it less than belting it with a lump hammer, if you want a smooth look then oversise the cutout slightly and use filler to smooth it off.
Matt2107
01-12-06, 09:55 AM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v493/TonySR/rebuildk.jpg
That cut looks nasty... hope you sought medical attention.
loggyboy
01-12-06, 11:03 AM
theres a neater way, just 2 cuts with a grinder, a small 2cm x 8cm plate and some hammering , tapping & welding:
http://www.loggyboy.com/images/MeritMk2/Welding/ChassisLeg1.jpg
http://www.loggyboy.com/images/MeritMk2/Welding/ChassisLeg2.jpg
http://www.loggyboy.com/images/MeritMk2/Welding/ChassisLegCuts.jpg
We had one with no leg mods, drove it for ages, just a few sparks on right hand bends lol
loggyboy
02-12-06, 01:50 AM
We had one with no leg mods, drove it for ages, just a few sparks on right hand bends lol
Thats exactly how my 1st XE was, i just messed with the mounts till i had enough clearance.
It did wear on hard cornering and a few months of use led to this (and i would imagine some bearing damage to the 'nator
http://www.loggyboy.com/images/nilly/Phase2/Day3Welding/LeftChassisLeg1.jpg
saloonwoody
02-12-06, 07:28 AM
na 1 cut bash below the cut then knock the top over n weld it up job done ,no fuss no muss,!
cheers for the pics lads. its hard to know whats the best way to do it. all different ways so whats the best one??
cheers, i know im draggin it out a bit but want the best way of doing it and not leavin it lookin like ****
Philsutton
04-12-06, 08:48 PM
best way imo is do a cut out and then weld it back up.
a neat version of the pic at the top then? how deep dose it need to be to be any good?
cheers
loggyboy
05-12-06, 01:49 PM
its depth can vary on lots of things.
Type of pulley used (ive seen one with multi rib set up that needed a large one)
orginal manufacturing tollereance of engine mounts bolts/holes, chassis leg etc etc.
When i fitted mine in the red one pictured above i slotted the holes on the read gearbox mount to allow me to slide the engine a few mm further over, i also played around with the pulley on the 'nator so it sat as far in as i could get it: - you can see how close the pulley is to the 'nator.
http://www.loggyboy.com/images/nilly/Phase1/24Alternator640.jpg
The general rule is to get it to align with the turret vertically. Also, less clearance is needed if you are using uprated engine mounts as the engine will shift less, in fact i believe if i'd been using uprated mounts on the red one, it would not have rubbed.
Yeah but that belt is pulling way offline as seen in that pic.
Actually, just looking at those Pics, my Altinator pulley on the X14XE sits as close as that does, might just do a bit of modding myself while the bays getting sorted.
Are you still using the Vee belt though Dod?
No its the huge awkward ribbed Pulleys found on the XE Engines and MPI Astras. I know i could use the smaller pulleys but its probably less work and more benificial to mod the Chassis leg anyway.
No would be damn sight easier to change the pulley.
Yeah but it'd be one less thing to do if i ever decide to Stick a big block in though.
Yeah but it'd be one less thing to do if i ever decide to Stick a big block in though.
thats why im doing it now cause id like to do a blg block conversioin in a few years. so im going all the prep work i can now
thats why im doing it now cause id like to do a blg block conversioin in a few years
Pah it will be rotten by then, its a bonus its lasted this long!
loggyboy
05-12-06, 10:40 PM
Thats another good point, changing the belt (even the smal type) was a pain without the chassis leg mod.
loggyboy
05-12-06, 10:43 PM
Yeah but that belt is pulling way offline as seen in that pic.
If your talking about mine then its mainly the angle of the picture, it was only very slightly miss aligned but only by a mm or 2 (which over the distance it travels is not an issue),
You cant move it too far in or it catches the cambelt cover.
Pah it will be rotten by then, its a bonus its lasted this long!
lol, its in very good nic so im doing a full restore to try and make it last a good bit longer
michelinman
08-12-06, 01:43 PM
Here's my 2p's worth (what I did to mine!)
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a367/shakeelhuq/DSCF0179.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a367/shakeelhuq/DSCF0006-3.jpg
^ that is a very neat way of going about it tbh, bring the entire panel back as oppose to cutting out a smaller section
very tidy that is :thumb:
lee coley
08-12-06, 09:27 PM
That cut looks nasty... hope you sought medical attention.
no mate because its not mine!just found it on another thread!:D
Cheers michelinman, that looks ace. think thats the way i will do mine. u take it in about 20mm then at that deepest point or si it more?
cheers
michelinman
09-12-06, 07:44 PM
Cheers michelinman, that looks ace. think thats the way i will do mine. u take it in about 20mm then at that deepest point or si it more?
cheers
No worries lad! Here's an excerpt from my WIP thread on JOV. Hopefully this explains it better - basically I clamped the section that I cut out until it touched the inside of the opposite face of the chassis leg and then welded it along the seam underneath the strut turret (to strengthen it at the same time)
Took a few measurements from the Cav donor 2.0 16v and here's where I reckon it could foul.
I then cut the chassis leg and teased it into a more acceptable position!
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a367/shakeelhuq/DSCF0169.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a367/shakeelhuq/DSCF0171.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a367/shakeelhuq/DSCF0173.jpg
Welding the leg in its new location...
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a367/shakeelhuq/DSCF0175.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a367/shakeelhuq/DSCF0177.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a367/shakeelhuq/DSCF0178.jpg
I then made up some plates to box the depression in and welded them in place.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a367/shakeelhuq/DSCF0179.jpg
The joints were then sealed using a liquid metal bonding adhesive.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a367/shakeelhuq/DSCF0180.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a367/shakeelhuq/DSCF0183.jpg
michelinman
09-12-06, 07:45 PM
Cheers for the comments lads.
Thank YOU very much lol, thats about the best way to explain it i have to say. it looks ace for srue and i think i will do exacly the same. thanks again man, cheers
Austin_Nova16
13-12-06, 01:21 PM
.......but you don't need to go as far back (towards the bulkhead) as the one pictured above...
stop it 20 or 30mm shorter than shown then?
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.