Questions on polishing and rust treatment (56k warning).

[Welsh Dan]

To begin, I've owned my nova for a week now, its had a good clean on the outside and some bumper treatment and now looks a bit better for it:

http://www.xen0phobiak.f2s.com/novaload/diamond/polish+rust/S5000301.JPG

Obviously I'll get a friend to help me straighten out that front bumper, and find some clear indicators and repeaters.

I decided to try some old polish I had lying around from when I had an argument with a car park barrier, which did a good job the first time around, and produced a good shine this time:

http://www.xen0phobiak.f2s.com/novaload/diamond/polish+rust/S5000295.JPG

but, even with some elbow grease wasn't doing much for scratches:

http://www.xen0phobiak.f2s.com/novaload/diamond/polish+rust/S5000296.JPG
(i admit that I only polished the roof to test)
http://www.xen0phobiak.f2s.com/novaload/diamond/polish+rust/S5000303.JPG

Should I buy a new bottle of the same stuff, or T-cut, or can anyone recommend anything better for reasonable money?


These are my rust problems on the bodywork:

http://www.xen0phobiak.f2s.com/novaload/diamond/polish+rust/S5000302.JPG
http://www.xen0phobiak.f2s.com/novaload/diamond/polish+rust/S5000304.JPG
http://www.xen0phobiak.f2s.com/novaload/diamond/polish+rust/S5000305.JPG
http://www.xen0phobiak.f2s.com/novaload/diamond/polish+rust/S5000309.JPG

I know that the rear arch really needs replacing, and I'll get it done as soon as I can afford to, but to me the rest looks like surface rust, how should I treat it?

My last question, is what do I do about this, which I know will be an MOT fail:
http://www.xen0phobiak.f2s.com/novaload/diamond/polish+rust/S5000312.JPG
http://www.xen0phobiak.f2s.com/novaload/diamond/polish+rust/S5000314.JPG?

Thanks in advance.

[Adam]

For the rust on the door/wing etc, sand it right down to see how far its gone, if its on the surface then you should be ok with sanding it down until its gone.
Then treat it with rust stopper, then prime, paint etc.
Its probably rusted from chips from stones etc.

For the floor, it depends if its rotted, again, sand and prod it to see how strong the metal is.
If its rotted, then it'll need cutting out until you find clean metal, and then a plate welded over.

For polishing, AutoGlym stuff is good for the money. You seem to have polished the roof well, good shine.

[Matt2107]

I would probably pay a tiny bit extra and go for meguires over autoglym... even though i use autoglym... Jacks celica came up a treat in meguires.

[Adam]

Yeah, meguires is ace, and leaves no crap white dust everywhere.

[Matt2107]

Exactly... i hate the white dust as it means more work therefore the meguires is worth the extra few quid.

[Welsh Dan]

Thanks guys, are we talking about the 3 stage meguiars stuff or something else? Their range is massive lol.

[Adam]

I think it was the Gold class polish i used, just a single bottle.

[Matt2107]

The gold class is slightly better but if you can stretch to it then go for the 3 stage polish.... you will not be disappointed... (que Jacks celica photo's with his hairy legs.)

[Welsh Dan]

Where should I go to get paint that matches the colour of mine? I've got a few days off so I want to have a crack at the surface rust.

[Martin]

Ye megs is great stuff used the clay on that scratch it mite work but remember t keep wettin it wit that quick detailer

you local paint shop mite sell the paint either find out the code or take the car to them and ask tem to match it up..


Martin

[Jack]

^ Clay bars wont' take a scratch out, they're only for restoring dull paint and removing surface contaminants. You'll need Megs Scratch-X for that, or if you can feel the scratch when you run your fingers over it, then a trip to the bodyshop is in order.

Halfords paint is ok if you need the paint asap. A paint shop should be able to mix you up a good match though, and take into account any fading of your existing paint, but might not be able to mix you something up right away (and will probably cost more).

As for the Megs, alas I don't have the hairy legs pic to hand right now :p

If you want a decent level of polish, first wash and fully dry the car - Megs NXT is good stuff, tbh I didn't think the Gold Class wash was any better. The Megs lambswool wash mits are ace as well btw ;)

Go over the panels with a clay bar and Megs Quick Detailler to remove surface contaminants (elbow grease required), then try some Megs Scratch-X paste to take the scratches out. The three stage cut, polish and wax is excellent stuff as well - again, Megs "Even Coat" applicator pads are brilliant (a bit expensive but definately worth it) for applying these polishes, and Tesco sell microfibre cloths, for buffing the polishes off, for about ?1.20 each.

For best results, use two layers of polish (stage 2) - i.e. work the first in til you can't see it on the paint, then work in a second layer of polish, then buff off with a microfibre cloth. The polish should be buffed off fairly quickly, don't leave it to dry out too much. However, the Carnuba Wax (stage 3) you should leave for a bit to cure.

That should bring your paint up to a good shine and restore the colour. Whilst the cut (stage 1) is a very very fine cut, much less abrasive than Auto Glym products and such like (so ideal for old Novas with old paint!), you should only really need to use it a couple times a year if you keep the car regularly washed and polished/waxed with stages 2&3.

[edit]Oh, and after washing/waxing, go over the windows with some Megs Glass Cleaner - the wash and waxes will have left a residue on the windows which can smear.

[Welsh Dan]

Its booked in for thursday morning to have that rust cut out of the floorpan and a plate welded in at the garage where it gets MOT'd (?80).

I've been thinking about the surface rust and its treatment, and how to get the paint to match...

It had this welding (and more you can't see) done for its last MOT in february:
http://www.xen0phobiak.f2s.com/novaload/diamond/polish+rust/welding.jpg
which got me thinking about doing a few photoshops to see if I liked what I was thinking about:
http://www.xen0phobiak.f2s.com/novaload/diamond/polish+rust/clearslightsblack.jpg
http://www.xen0phobiak.f2s.com/novaload/diamond/polish+rust/clearslightsblack2.jpg

Once the rust has been treated, I think I'll be buying some satin black paint :D.

[ade]

re scratches - if you can run your finger nail across them and feel the indentation then the only real way to remove is to respray - scratches are a bugger because they take paint off the lacquer. Over use of t-cut removed a layer of lacquer and eventually removes the paint. Polich will shift some very light ones but not all.

As for the rusted areas - strip back right down to metal and a good 2 inches around and beyond. Assess the damage. Most rust will be surface and can be removed - if its pitted, use a drill with a wire brush attachment to get as much of it off as possible. You shoud always wash down exposed metal with spoapy water before treating to ensure any salt deposits are removed. the panel will obviusly be dry before treating.

Treat the area with a suitable rust treatment (krust or jenolite) and allow to cure fully. Then you can smooth over with filler and then sand back. Once sanded smooth, smooth over with cellulose putty to seal the filler (filler is pourous) and sand this down. this will fill all the small pin holes. Use 600+ grit wet n dry (dry) at this stage

Painting wise, for underneath / out of site areas use an anti rust paint as a base coat (ronesal no rust is good or hamerite) 3 coats should be good. Once cured (a week) coat with waxoyl under body sealer or rocker shutz/stonechip paint. This is also good for the inside of doors (dont block the drainage holes though).

For visible painted areas, prime using standard primer - 3 coats. Allow to cure then sand back using 800+ wet n dry (use dry as primer will absorb moisture). Then degrease using suitable panel wipe and spray with top coat paint. Once paint has cured (a week) use a suitable lacquer if necessary.

The key to delaying rust (you can prevent it) is to ensure the surrounding metal is also clear and salt free thats why you need to strip back a few inches either side and wash with hot soapy water. Avoid wax based products - just washing up liquid will do.

When spraying the best thing to do is spray the entire panel (so for the rust on the bottom of the doors, wing and rear 1/4 you would spray the whole lower section up to the bump strip). I'd remove the bump strip as well incase rust is under that...

Once sprayed, lacquered and cured, treat the lower section of the car (underside of the sills) to anti rust stop paint and under body sealer.

You could also steam clean/jet wash the undrside of the car and then underbody seal it - useful before winter really sets in.

[Welsh Dan]

Thanks ade :thumb:.