Best road holding set up

[wannabegsi]

Hi all ive recently bought a gsi with a 2.0 red top in it.
Im just wondering what people views are on how to get the best road holding out of these cars.

Eg Tyre size, suspension set up, and any other components that will creat the best set up...

Thanks in advance for any advise

danny

[Welsh Dan]

14/15" wheels, depending on the size of the front discs. Fully adjustable coilovers, stitch welded chassis, strut braces. Tread width up to around 185mm. If you want to be hardcore, convert the rear beam to independant rear suspension. Take as much weight out of the car as possible.

As for how to set the coilovers, no idea sorry.

[JSeymour]

spread the weight, put the battery in the boot.

dont have a 2.0 but know someone who's done it and left it there so it must do something.

[Stuart]

as said, stitch weld the ENTIRE chassis, plate round the suspension pick up points, plate the lower TCA's, either hard poly bushes or Rose joints/spherical bearings all round, rear ARB fitted, NO front arb, decent coilovers witha bout 280-350lb springs up front and about 150-200lb in the back, front strut brace, cage, non worn ball joints all round, plate diff, decent tyres (eagle F1's, toyos, khumos), eccentric top mounts etc, then spend time getting it all setup

[wannabegsi]

Thanks for the advise.

What is the reason for you suggesting to run no front anti roll bar ?
Also im not sure what you mean by plate diff ?


thanks

[Stuart]

no front arb means that the coilovers can do their job properly.. its jsut that the nova has a totally pants ARB setup for the front that does sweet naff all bar induce understeer. Its only 8 nuts... try it on and off yourself lol.

when i say a plate diff i mean an LSD that isnt a quaiffe ATB one... but it needs servicing etc but never mind.

[Dar]

What are you going to be using the car for?
This has an impact on what you may want to run. Also when you say best. Is this a money no object 'best' setup?

[wannabegsi]

I will be using the car on a daily basis but also what to use it on track days as well.

Regarding the cost of a good set up ide be wanting to spend no more than about 600 pounds

I had in mind my self -

polybush front and rear all round
A good set of struts and springs eg avo or bilstein
Some decent 15" alloys with some yoko A539 tyres
front and rear strut braces
rear of car will be stripped out as well.

The things im not sure on is what suspension to go for and what lb Springs will best suit me ?
And any other things people could recomend ? ile try the front anti roll bar off thansk for that.

[Stuart]

id not get yoko a539 imho...

[dannyb]

A539s can be a right handful in the wet; especially when they get to about 2 or 3 mm as they probably will have done by this winter if they are put on new now.

[wannabegsi]

i run yoko A529s on my renault 5 gt turbo and thats running at over 250bhp and ive found them to be very good but i only use the car in dry conditions so not sure on there performance day to day with the usual wet weather.

If any 1 is interested here isa link to my renault 5 turbo runs 12sec 1/4miles

http://www.rtoc.org/members/member.asp?memberid=11539

Ive also noticed that inalot of the pics with ppl running the valver engine they dont use a front strut brace why is this ??

Also will a straut brace designed for a gsi stillfit witha valver in place ?
thanks for allyour advise really appreciate it

[craig green]

Valver in place is the problem issue with space wrt the SFI box.

A539's might work on a 5 but as the handling characteristics are totally different to a Nova, it makes sense that they might not. However I firmly beleive the grippiest tyre, is not the best tyre.

each to there own.

Making a 2.0 XE Nova handle may require more budget than ?600 in my opinion.

[Dar]

Righto :-

The springs and struts will take a big chunk out of your budget if you buy from new. I would look at coilovers, but then AVO's are ~?600 IIRC. So budget GONE!! - Deffo get the coilovers if you can though.
As for spring rates I was quite happy with 300lb fronts and 150lb rears. Its a good starting point and the car handles well with these spring rates. Later on you may want to up the rear poundage.
Deffo polybush it, I didn't bother with the rear on mine and its ok. So you can save some pennies by not botherthing with the rear, that's IF the current bushes are ok.
The strut braces are also worth doing.At this point your probably over budget but carrying on.

I would advise getting a two set's of wheels/tyres. Some for on the track and some for on the road. That way you can get some nice grippy tyres like Toyo R888's for the track and something else for the road. Or just get some really nice road tyres, but you will kill them on the track.

The list is endless and for just ?600 you are limited to what you can do. I would say that the most important starting point is the suspension, and for the cost of them, polybushes. After this good tyres are a nice idea. I am assuming that you already have good breaks.

[wannabegsi]

Thanks for the info DAR regarding the breaks its got new shoes rear and new 2.0l discs and calipers and pads at front. In time if need ile get some 4 pots.

Ile get on the look out for some coilovers and braces and some polybushes for the front. The rear had all new bushes not long ago.

Where is the best place to get some 300lb springs amd 150lb springs from once i find some coilovers ?

Really impressed with the club so far loads of help thanks.

[Dar]

No problem mate. When I ordered my AVO's I specifyed the poundage of the springs, but most motorsport places will stock different spring rates and sizes for coilovers.

I got some different springs from here - http://www.merlinmotorsport.com/

[Dod]

I've found that with a stripped rear the car steps out a lot more, And I\m running 205/15s. Try the Battrey relocation and as i'll be doing, an aluminium petrol tank into the spare wheel well. It'll put the weight further back in the car and distribute it better. You shouldn't be adding any more wieght to the car, but it should balance it out better.