Respray Info- Wet N Dry Etc...

[MrSilicone]

Hi All,

im about to undertake a respray myself, i have all the equipment and reasonable skill with a gun, but id like to know what gritt of wet and dry to use once its been fully primered???

Also once its been sprayed and laqured, is there any thing needed to be done to the finish? ie.. rubbing down etc etc..

Thanks for any info.

[johnny27]

i always use 800 wet to smooth down primer. When paint and lacquer is fully cured, i usually wait atleast 3 days, then mix some hot water in a bucket with a little bit of fairy liquid and smooth down the car with 1500 wet, be very gentle espically on grooves or corners, then use G3 compound on a polisher, again be very careful, and finally wax car a few times to get rid of the haze the g3 leaves.

[MrSilicone]

THANKS FOR THE INFO JOHNNY, TOP MAN! :thumb:

[Stuart]

i used 240ish grit and/or red scotchbrite for smoothing the primer back.

basically you want the primer to ahve a similar feeling/finish to how you want to top coat to turn out.. eg if you have it matt then the topcoat will be matt

[johnny27]

800 is nice and smooth for primer, but still grited just enough so the paint won't run on first couple of coats. BTW don't use anything above 320 wet before you prime, as it needs a very good grip, 320 is the maxium grade to be safe

[johnny27]

sorry 1 thing i forgot to mention, lacquer within a hour of the last coat of colour, if you leave it too long the lacquer will run or else peel in a couple of months.

[MrSilicone]

So would 240 gritt be ok to use on the car before i prime it??

Thanks again for the info.. keep it coming!

Where would i be with out NovaLoad!!

[Stuart]

i sanded my entire car back with 80grit on an orbital sander prior to priming and there were no bad marks etc in the paint.

[Benn]

240 is fine befor primering,as johnny said wet 800 the primer,let it fully dry out,then get all ready for paint,

[ade]

Once primed, allow to cure fully, then spray the whole area thats been primed with a speckle coat of black paint.

Then flat back using 800 grit until the black speckles are gone.

the speckles show up imperfections, dents or or other faults - once all speckles are gone, youre surface it totally flat.

Using 800 allows you to get a really smooth finish - remember - the final prep of primer is what the top coat sits on so the smoother you get it, the better the final coat and deeper the lustre (shine).

For DIY, make sure you have some kind of extractor fan to remove all the overspray. When I did mine I found the overspray the hardest thing to get rid of (I used 2k paint so couldnt just stick a fan on and blow it out the garage door!).

Once youve sprayed your top coat (make sure you degrease and tack cloth the primer before hand using panel wipe and tack cloths) - allow to fully cure. If 2k paint this will be a day or so (cellulose about a week unless you have heat lamps) - then youre ready to buff it up.

Use an appropriate rubbing compound (G3/4) and a polishing bonnet - take it easy and watch edges.

TBH when I resprayed mine, I got my local vauxhall garage to buff mine up (had a mate who worked there) - cost me ?100 and was well shiney when I got it back.

If using 2k paint, you dont really need lacquer (depends on the paint of course) but if you do lacquer it, flat the top coat back with 1000 - 1500 wet n dry (wet) . It'll lose its lustre but flatting back will allow all minor faults (flies on the paint, nibs etc) to be removed. You can then lacquer it and the lacquer will instantly make the whole surfacr glossy but so deep and shiny you'll be able to see your reflection in it! Just take it easy on the lacquer - its thinner than paint and can run easily. You will need an extractor for a mirror finish - otherwise youll need to flat that back too.

Ade

[NOVA_JONO]

To prep new panels for primer i would use P320 on a D.A sander, then to flat the primer down it's best using P800 grit paper with a bit of water.
When the car is lacquered, i would leave it for a few days like johnny said, then use 2000 grit paper and water to de-nib/ to get any bits and inperfections out of the lacquer then use G3 rubbing compound and a buffer, next use a glaze called Finesse It, clean it up and finally use a soft foam pad on the buffer and polish to give it a good coating.


Jono.

[Stuart]

i agree 99% with ades advice.....

i used pannel wipe on parts of my respray and found that it reacted with the 2K despite the supplier stating that it was 2K safe...... so in that light is simply used a rag with 2K thinners on it to clean and degrease the pannels etc....

[Benn]

i wouldnt use 2000 wet and dry,till i had used 1500(or 1200 if theres lots of o/p)as you want it nice and flat,

[johnny27]

white spirit is as good as any degreaser, just make sure you let it evapourate. I have used white spirit to clean wheels and bumpers that had only been throughly waxed 2 days previous to spraying, and it works perfectly leaving no silicone reactions.