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GAZZA115
08-03-06, 07:35 PM
HI THERE IM NEW TO THIS IM DOING A C20XE CONVERSION INTO A NOVA MYSELF AND IVE BEEN TOLD IVE GOT TO CUT THE CHASSIS LEG ON THE DRIVERS SIDE I WAS JUST WONDERING IF THIS IS TRUE OR NOT IF SO DOES ANY ONE KNOW WHERE AND HOW MUCH TO CUT CHEERS GAZZA:confused:

mikey14sr
08-03-06, 07:44 PM
It'll need cutting and boxing back in around the alternator area, I'm sure someone will have a pic of what they've done. (I haven't as I don't see the point in fitting a big-block engine, and please turn caps lock off)

Riggy
08-03-06, 08:08 PM
some people dont bother cutting it mate , they just bash it with a big hammer

but i would recomend cutting it and re-welding it , looks so much better

DIY*VALVER84
08-03-06, 11:21 PM
i agree, the welded box section looks a lot better than a bashed engine mounting...lets face it the whole point of an xe is being able to pop your bonnet and all your mates go how the f**k did you squeeze that in there! then they watch as you annhilate a wrx estate full of chavs...oops that was me on sat night lol. im selling now tho...new project mk1 turbo sr,fun!

leebo
09-03-06, 01:52 AM
Donor 16v engine
Uprated brakes (256mm recommended minimum/standard)
Multipoint Injection spec fuel tank, pump and lines
Custom drivers side engine mount (or lower existing chassis mount by around 1.5 inch and use the metal bracket from a mk2 cav.)
10mm Spacer for rear gearbox mount.
Uprated Rubber engine mounts recommended
High spec’ SR, GTE, GSi etc rad recommended (1.0 will not suit)
Driveshafts - 22 spline items (most GTE, TDs and some GSIs)
Retain the Nova outer CVs (will mate with any nova hubs)
Early 1.6 Cav/Astra inner CVs (16SH engine number, MK2 Cav around 1988 model)
Custom exhaust (either adjust XE downpipe to mate with Nova system or adjust nova system to mate with XE downpipe)

Work/adjustments:

Seam/stitch weld engine bay.
Adjust Drivers side chassis leg to allow for alternator pulley.
Grind off the lug on the bottom on the g/box which fouls the tie bar.
Shorten the front gearbox to chassis mount bolt till its flush with the nut (or you can insert the bolt the other way, but this makes it awkward if you need to change the mount for any reason)
Adjust clutch cable exit angle (down and towards Passenger side.)
Some inlet manifolds have a lug that needs gringing off so it doesnt foul with heater pipe.
Trim drivers side heater matrix pipe to as small as pos (whilst still allowing enough to fit the rubber pipe back on)
Use nova gear linkage but spin the plastic pivot 180 degrees to extend it enough to meet the XE gearboxes selector
Wiring:
Perm power, accessory power (must be live when cranking), fuel pump, rev and temp gauge.
Plumbing:
Top rad hose will need tweaking to connect to XE thermostat housing but you can mix n match most pipes from XE and original Nova to suit

leebo
09-03-06, 01:55 AM
Cut and paste job but it helps

GAZZA115
09-03-06, 07:14 PM
Cheers for the info but as anyone got a picture or dimensions of where i got to cut and reweld cheers gaz

madanimal
11-03-06, 10:15 PM
This is how my mate at chris astley motorsport does it when he does conversions, there is no need to go for a deep box type shape like some people do.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b367/RSreplica/Picture036.jpg

octane
12-03-06, 08:48 PM
that doesn't look any different?

leebo
12-03-06, 10:17 PM
dont mean to hijack but how do ya do a stich or seam weld and whats the advantages or disadvantages of both?

cheers lee